Cold Starting without Block Heater
#16
Mine started at -4 with just the grids and a single 850cca battery a couple times last winter. Lit right off and wasn't that rough either. But that's also when I decided to go out and get a bigger battery. If it needed to crank more than a couple times it wouldn't of made it. It really takes some amps to turn that thing over when the temp gets down there.
#19
An ice-cold battery is lucky to have half it's normal zip on a frosty morning.
I have three big old group 31s on my personal truck, so cold starts are no problem.
I have a 1.5 amp on-board trickle charger that I am installing on the wife's single-battery truck.
I will plug it in on those cold nights so she can get gone before daylight, without me having to go outside.
I have three big old group 31s on my personal truck, so cold starts are no problem.
I have a 1.5 amp on-board trickle charger that I am installing on the wife's single-battery truck.
I will plug it in on those cold nights so she can get gone before daylight, without me having to go outside.
#20
If we had to plug these trucks in at 32* around here you couldn't afford the power bill. There might in a good year be 60 frost free days. I have never had to plug any of the Dodges I have at work in above -20* unless they have sat for several days W/O being started. Some of my gassers don't fare that well.
#21
I certainly agree that 35* or even 32 is not necessary at all but they do run a little better when first started if a little warm. I put the heater on a timer. I normaly start the power about 2 or 3 hours before I need to start the truck.
#23
I agree that these engines will start in temperatures below zero and I could probably also survive a night outside in the ice cold rain, but I would be much better off warm and dry.
When a COLD engine is cranking, all the little seals are almost frozen to their shafts, brittle and stiff as a walking-stick; it would be possible for a little chunk to be torn from a seal's lip, thus starting a leak.
Maybe the first little tear doesn't leak; but the next time, that little tear gets bigger, then bigger again.
Electricity is not cheap, but it is easier to pay an electric-bill, than to re-seal an engine.
I hear these engines cranking in the cold, oil stiff as molasses, starter arcing and dragging, cable-ends smoking; that can't be good for anything.
Plugged in for a couple hours, they will whirl over like mid-July, and the coolant will almost make heat.
When a COLD engine is cranking, all the little seals are almost frozen to their shafts, brittle and stiff as a walking-stick; it would be possible for a little chunk to be torn from a seal's lip, thus starting a leak.
Maybe the first little tear doesn't leak; but the next time, that little tear gets bigger, then bigger again.
Electricity is not cheap, but it is easier to pay an electric-bill, than to re-seal an engine.
I hear these engines cranking in the cold, oil stiff as molasses, starter arcing and dragging, cable-ends smoking; that can't be good for anything.
Plugged in for a couple hours, they will whirl over like mid-July, and the coolant will almost make heat.
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