Clutch choice?
#1
Clutch choice?
hey-Hey!!!,
I'm now in the market for a new clutch for my 1990. I have no intention of ever getting lots ov power( 250 hp is probably *IT* at some point in the future ), and I want a smooth one. Emphasis on Smooooooth!!. I'd rather it be a light pressure plate; no need to go big if power/tq doesn't call for it. What should I pay attention to? Luk? Con-O from Southbend? Does Sachs make one for the NV5600?
cheers,
Douglas
I'm now in the market for a new clutch for my 1990. I have no intention of ever getting lots ov power( 250 hp is probably *IT* at some point in the future ), and I want a smooth one. Emphasis on Smooooooth!!. I'd rather it be a light pressure plate; no need to go big if power/tq doesn't call for it. What should I pay attention to? Luk? Con-O from Southbend? Does Sachs make one for the NV5600?
cheers,
Douglas
#3
Registered User
The LUK in my sig has been super smooth for four yrs now. I once got caught having to move off in 3rd towing my old 35' 5th wheel camper; I rode it out with barely a whimper from that clutch. Your NV may take a different one from mine, but the LUK propaganda showed quite a variety of size, cost and quality. My kit came with new pilot bushing (which I greased up with molylube), throw-out bearing and yoke. Gonna change the rear main seal while you're in there?
Last edited by ppiggppenn; 10-22-2010 at 10:50 AM. Reason: add word "seal"
#4
sir Pigpenn,
Thanks for reminding me about the rear main seal, I had not considered that operation until you mentioned it. Looks like some special tools required( I don't like the idea of pounding it in crooked ). In any case, good call to remind me...hadn't planned on removing the block-to-trans spacer this time around...
Any good source for the seal driving aparatus?
Get the seal with wear sleeve or the one w/o? Truck is ~100k and not leaking now( knocks on nearby wood ).
cheers,
Douglas
Thanks for reminding me about the rear main seal, I had not considered that operation until you mentioned it. Looks like some special tools required( I don't like the idea of pounding it in crooked ). In any case, good call to remind me...hadn't planned on removing the block-to-trans spacer this time around...
Any good source for the seal driving aparatus?
Get the seal with wear sleeve or the one w/o? Truck is ~100k and not leaking now( knocks on nearby wood ).
cheers,
Douglas
#7
Registered User
What year NV5600? 1999-2000 have a 1 1/4" 10 spline input whereas 2000.5-2005.5 have a 1 3/8" 10 spline input. Something you need to find out regardless of which clutch you buy!
I like the Con-OFE in mine. It engages smooth and the pedal pressure decreased from the stock Luk clutch that came out. Good thing is that 1st gen clutch hydraulics are pretty stout according to Peter. I bought the kit that included the flywheel which comes with an already installed, LARGE and sealed pilot bearing, not bushing. A new throwout bearing is also included with the clutch as well as a spacer which is intended to go behind the pivot ball of the throwout fork in the transmission. It's on the passenger side of the trans. Pull it out, put the spacer behind it and thread it back in. Simple as that.
The clutch might be a little overkill being rated at 475hp/1000ft. lbs. but, I'd rather have something that I know will hold good power and I know I'll probably never come that close to those numbers. The neoprene bushings Peter replaces the standard springs with (6 of the 8) stiffen the hub A LOT and make my trans growl/vibrate in 4th, 5th and 6th anywhere from 1600-1900RPM. I don't like it but I'm easy on the throttle until it passes. Sometimes. I don't know what to think about it but the trans doesn't have too many miles on it. It was purchased new and installed back in 2001 .
As for the rear main seal, it's simple to replace. I had mine swapped in 15 mins. Drill 2 - 1/8" holes 180 degs. from each other in the old rear main (not into the rubber of it ), run machine screws into them (not all the way, of course) and use a pry bar or claw hammer to evenly pry it out. Clean the crank surface up nicely and make sure it's dry and especially deburred if any are present. The new seal slips in as easy as the old one comes out. And just as the front crank seal goes, slip the rear main over the crank with it still on the plastic sleeve. Then use the driver tool provided with the seal to seat it into the adapter plate. Tap it at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions so that it doesn't get tweaked upon install.
I like the Con-OFE in mine. It engages smooth and the pedal pressure decreased from the stock Luk clutch that came out. Good thing is that 1st gen clutch hydraulics are pretty stout according to Peter. I bought the kit that included the flywheel which comes with an already installed, LARGE and sealed pilot bearing, not bushing. A new throwout bearing is also included with the clutch as well as a spacer which is intended to go behind the pivot ball of the throwout fork in the transmission. It's on the passenger side of the trans. Pull it out, put the spacer behind it and thread it back in. Simple as that.
The clutch might be a little overkill being rated at 475hp/1000ft. lbs. but, I'd rather have something that I know will hold good power and I know I'll probably never come that close to those numbers. The neoprene bushings Peter replaces the standard springs with (6 of the 8) stiffen the hub A LOT and make my trans growl/vibrate in 4th, 5th and 6th anywhere from 1600-1900RPM. I don't like it but I'm easy on the throttle until it passes. Sometimes. I don't know what to think about it but the trans doesn't have too many miles on it. It was purchased new and installed back in 2001 .
As for the rear main seal, it's simple to replace. I had mine swapped in 15 mins. Drill 2 - 1/8" holes 180 degs. from each other in the old rear main (not into the rubber of it ), run machine screws into them (not all the way, of course) and use a pry bar or claw hammer to evenly pry it out. Clean the crank surface up nicely and make sure it's dry and especially deburred if any are present. The new seal slips in as easy as the old one comes out. And just as the front crank seal goes, slip the rear main over the crank with it still on the plastic sleeve. Then use the driver tool provided with the seal to seat it into the adapter plate. Tap it at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions so that it doesn't get tweaked upon install.
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#8
hey-Hey!!!,
I have no starter spacer, and so conclude it is a 1.25 input shaft. Jimbo, your description of groaning/vibration sounds a lot like mine. I don't get it in 6th, but in 4th at high throttle and lower RPM it does it a bit...and in 5th one barely has to feel the turbospool to get the groan. I am not confident of the trans' health in any way, shape or form... Actually contemplating a rebuilt from ebay and get the big one while I am at it. The amount ov money required is not small though. I did not think I'd be doing a new gearbox when I bought the thing.
cheers,
Douglas
I have no starter spacer, and so conclude it is a 1.25 input shaft. Jimbo, your description of groaning/vibration sounds a lot like mine. I don't get it in 6th, but in 4th at high throttle and lower RPM it does it a bit...and in 5th one barely has to feel the turbospool to get the groan. I am not confident of the trans' health in any way, shape or form... Actually contemplating a rebuilt from ebay and get the big one while I am at it. The amount ov money required is not small though. I did not think I'd be doing a new gearbox when I bought the thing.
cheers,
Douglas
#9
Registered User
I put in the SB con-o 5 months ago, been pulling about 15K lbs for 11 hours here, 4 hours there, etc. and am very happy with it. So far, great price and good service.
As for the rear main seal, I wish I had an experience similar to Jimbo's but I'll have to say that it took me 2 seals to do it right. After putting the first one in with a bit of chosen words, it started to leak - quite enough to go back to the Dodge dealer and get another one. The first one I got from QUAD 4X4 and Dan sold me a tool that helps center the thing - check their website - pretty handy for my ability...
Anyhow, good luck!
As for the rear main seal, I wish I had an experience similar to Jimbo's but I'll have to say that it took me 2 seals to do it right. After putting the first one in with a bit of chosen words, it started to leak - quite enough to go back to the Dodge dealer and get another one. The first one I got from QUAD 4X4 and Dan sold me a tool that helps center the thing - check their website - pretty handy for my ability...
Anyhow, good luck!
#10
My buddy has a 03 with a 6speed. He got a scach clutch for it. I think it was in the mid 300's. It's been holding in his 500ish HP truck for a year now and he isn't nice to it at all. I will see if he's still got the guys # who sold it to him and pass along the info.
#11
Registered User
hey-Hey!!!,
I have no starter spacer, and so conclude it is a 1.25 input shaft. Jimbo, your description of groaning/vibration sounds a lot like mine. I don't get it in 6th, but in 4th at high throttle and lower RPM it does it a bit...and in 5th one barely has to feel the turbospool to get the groan. I am not confident of the trans' health in any way, shape or form... Actually contemplating a rebuilt from ebay and get the big one while I am at it. The amount ov money required is not small though. I did not think I'd be doing a new gearbox when I bought the thing.
cheers,
Douglas
I have no starter spacer, and so conclude it is a 1.25 input shaft. Jimbo, your description of groaning/vibration sounds a lot like mine. I don't get it in 6th, but in 4th at high throttle and lower RPM it does it a bit...and in 5th one barely has to feel the turbospool to get the groan. I am not confident of the trans' health in any way, shape or form... Actually contemplating a rebuilt from ebay and get the big one while I am at it. The amount ov money required is not small though. I did not think I'd be doing a new gearbox when I bought the thing.
cheers,
Douglas
I didn't know the start spacer was only present in the 2000.5 and up NV5600s with the 1 3/8" input. I thought all NV5600s utilized that spacer. Is it possible that you reused or a got a 1st gen flywheel in there?
Also, reading about your interest in a Sachs clutch, Southbend's website states that they can get OEM Sachs and Luk clutches. Might give Peter a call there.
#12
hey-Hey!!!,
Going to go with a 245 hp HO Luk and a ball-bearing pilot Flywheel. It has a thick engine/trans plate and it will also get the starter spacer to work with the new flywheel.
I got the truck with that trans; it wasn't me who built it...but it will be under my flag when it is too used to continue( some time in the next few decades ).
cheers,
Douglas
Going to go with a 245 hp HO Luk and a ball-bearing pilot Flywheel. It has a thick engine/trans plate and it will also get the starter spacer to work with the new flywheel.
I got the truck with that trans; it wasn't me who built it...but it will be under my flag when it is too used to continue( some time in the next few decades ).
cheers,
Douglas
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