Micaiahfied

so i'm kinda fed up with brakes. i've replaced everything. when i come to a stop the wheel will turn to the left and the whole truck turns to the left. i thought that there was a problem with the passenger caliper, so i replaced it. well the problem came back. the problem started after about 15 miles. i had a guy tell me that if the rotors were turned improperly that as the new pads seated it could cause it to pull. so my question is, is that guy right? is that something that can happen?

flashgordon

that is tru if on rotor was turned at a diff finish. It will pull or if you turned one rotor and not the ether it will pull two!
Both of these sytom will fix them selfs in time put, if the rotor was turned vary corse, the pads will be half gone before it straitns out!!
the rotors realy should be quit smooth and if not then thay need to be turned by someone that knows how to turn a rotor and now!!!!! they will be to thin and warp a lot easer!

Micaiahfied

they are fairly smooth, not like new. if i run my fignernail front center to edge i can feel a little drag (if that makes sence)

Den

Drive slow and hit the brakes and release them. If the truck pulls to the left AFTER you remove your foot from the brake pedal, than the left caliper is hanging up. It's trashed.

It's going to pull to the side with more friction or grip. Whether it's from a rotor finish, pad, alignment issue

If it's pulling with your foot on the brakes then it also could be air in the right side of the system or the right caliper is having a hard time gripping the rotor. Could also be junk in the splitter/proportioning valve on the frame rail limitng right side pressure.

Den

Winr

rear brakes can cause a pull as well. Check adjustment and or broken parts

Micaiahfied

den, if i let off the brakes it straightens right out. it's only when my foot is on it. the right rotor (2nd one) that i put on today was bled REALLY well and the slides moved very well, i put anti sieze on there to help them to keep free. PV on the frame rail has been remove and both sides easily gravity bleed which leads me to believe the lines are clear

Winr - i am pretty sure the rears are adjusted unevenly... and that would account for a pull at a decent speed, but i can be going 3-5mph and push the breaks and watch the steering wheel start to spin to the left.

i am having a hard time believeing that it's anything other than the rotors but i don't understand how they would make this happen

rlyons

It could be the brake hoses on the front. I have had quite a few that were bad and coming apart from the inside out and will cause a restriction internaly. I had a motorhome that had all the brake componets replaced as well as ball joints and an alignment and it turned out to be bad brake hoses.

Micaiahfied

those are less than 6 months old... and like i said it gravity bleeds so i didn't think there was a big restriction.... could it go bad in 6 months?

flashgordon

Before you change any thing go find a safe road and get it up to 20 mph and panic stop it(with out the tire slideing)Let it cool tell you can touch the rotor with out buring you self(at least 20 minutes) if you could control the 20 mph brakeing go to 30 and let it cool again if you can still control the truck then 40 and let cool.

If it is the surfice of the rotor that is the problem, the pull will be gone or atleast grately reduced!!

Did you say that you remove the perportion valve? the one below the master syn on the frame?

Micaiahfied

i've done a number of "panic stops" but didn't let it cool in between what difference does that make?

and yes i removed the PV and the RWAL. once i get it working i will be calling it my simplified brake system or SBS. i ran a new hard line from the master to the line above the axle in the from. then i ran the back through an adjustable PV and then a new hard line all the way back to the soft line above the axle. now that everything (power) is working the thing will definately throw you thorough the windshield if you want.

HappyCamper

One other thing to check is whether the calipers are hanging up on the slides. Had another vehicle that drove me crazy for a while. It would pull hard right. I checked the right side inside and out - turned out that the caliper was hangin up on the left side. Applied a little brake grease to the slide and my braking evened out.

Just a thought....

flashgordon

to prevent the freshly turned rotors from worping, thay generate menny time more heat when there braking in, the after weres.

PECJR

did you replace the right caliper?
unless your rotors are rough from the turn job look eslewhere.
do the calipers move easily in there mountings.
you can also jack up the truck and slowy push on the pedal and see if one caliper has more drag than the other.

are both steel pistons?
do both push into caliper bores easy?

flashgordon

I still thing that you need to put the brake perportion valve back on!!!
rwal i would still leave off

flashgordon

K I had to go look, before i spoke but the perporsining valve ballances the front(left to right...Witch is the problem)and front to rear. By adding an after market adj perporsining valve at the rear. you now can adj byus or front to rear brakeing but still can't equlice the two front tires!(it takes vary little fluid to aply calliper conpaired to wheel sylinders.

You eather need to have two adj perportion valves(one for left and right front pressure adj, and the secont to adjust rear pressure) or replace the factory one.

I now you'v gone thru a lot to get to the end but you really need to do this!
Look on the bright side, you now more about brake system on first gen the you thought you would ever would!