building a dual-purpose towing rig and stationary generator?
#16
Registered User
Direct driving a generator with an oversized engine is really not a big deal. Like I said, farmers do it all the time.
If it were me, I'd get one of those PTO driven things, find a PTO and maybe a gear box or multi V belt drive to spin it at the right speed. I'd probably figure an engine speed around 1200 rpm. No need to wind it out for 30 hp or so. I'd molest the cruise control, either spoofing speed data to the PCU, or driving the vacuum control solenoids with a custom speed regulator circuit. I'd switch the wiring between them with a miniature multi pole relay called a cradle relay. Very reliable for small currents.
Most fielded generators I've seen could regulate voltage apart from speed. To make one seriously stable under different loads, even at a fixed speed, would take a lot of extra copper and iron, also spelled weight.
Should be able to easily make enough power to drive a pretty large modern sophisticated welding machine.
We used to make fairly hairy gen sets from large 3 phase synchronous motors. Needed them because we needed various voltages at 50 hertz to test large computer power supplies destined for Europe. Yep, computers used to use so much juice that one of their low voltage supplies would make a good welder. They used ferroresonant transformers that needed power grid frequency within 1 hz. These sets were large and heavy, but very stable and able to produce a lot of power for a long time.
If it were me, I'd get one of those PTO driven things, find a PTO and maybe a gear box or multi V belt drive to spin it at the right speed. I'd probably figure an engine speed around 1200 rpm. No need to wind it out for 30 hp or so. I'd molest the cruise control, either spoofing speed data to the PCU, or driving the vacuum control solenoids with a custom speed regulator circuit. I'd switch the wiring between them with a miniature multi pole relay called a cradle relay. Very reliable for small currents.
Most fielded generators I've seen could regulate voltage apart from speed. To make one seriously stable under different loads, even at a fixed speed, would take a lot of extra copper and iron, also spelled weight.
Should be able to easily make enough power to drive a pretty large modern sophisticated welding machine.
We used to make fairly hairy gen sets from large 3 phase synchronous motors. Needed them because we needed various voltages at 50 hertz to test large computer power supplies destined for Europe. Yep, computers used to use so much juice that one of their low voltage supplies would make a good welder. They used ferroresonant transformers that needed power grid frequency within 1 hz. These sets were large and heavy, but very stable and able to produce a lot of power for a long time.
#17
Registered User
It is a little more involved than simply spinning an alternator with your truck engine.
Both frequency and voltage are directly propionate to the RPM the rotor is turning, smaller units usually turn at either 1800 or 3600 RPM while larger units can be 1200. (determined by how many poles.)
You need to have a governor connected to the throttle to keep the rpm's constant, if not when the voltage droops so does the frequency, the governor should keep it between 57 to 63 Hz any higher and the voltage will creep up around 140 volts and things will start burning out on you.
Induction motors (blower motors, sump pumps, well pumps) that rely on the 60hz line frequency to synchronize will now try to turn faster and overheat if the RPM's are not correct.
I have and work on Onan CCK gensets used in RV's as well as I used to own a Mep-003a Military Genset powered by a 4-cylinder air cooled diesel engine, producing 10kw both single AND 3-phase power, weighing almost 1300 pounds.
There are 2 ways I can think of to approach this problem.
With the generator head directly connected to the transmission through the PTO shaft, choose the final drive to be close to the needed output RPM, install a Woodward Governor on the front of the engine connected using a belt, have a quick connect ball and socket connecting the governor arm to the VE throttle shaft.
In generator mode you would need to connect the governor to the VE, when you start the engine the governor would keep the engine at 1800 RPM rock solid, you would need to disconnect the governor to drive the truck.
Both frequency and voltage are directly propionate to the RPM the rotor is turning, smaller units usually turn at either 1800 or 3600 RPM while larger units can be 1200. (determined by how many poles.)
You need to have a governor connected to the throttle to keep the rpm's constant, if not when the voltage droops so does the frequency, the governor should keep it between 57 to 63 Hz any higher and the voltage will creep up around 140 volts and things will start burning out on you.
Induction motors (blower motors, sump pumps, well pumps) that rely on the 60hz line frequency to synchronize will now try to turn faster and overheat if the RPM's are not correct.
I have and work on Onan CCK gensets used in RV's as well as I used to own a Mep-003a Military Genset powered by a 4-cylinder air cooled diesel engine, producing 10kw both single AND 3-phase power, weighing almost 1300 pounds.
There are 2 ways I can think of to approach this problem.
With the generator head directly connected to the transmission through the PTO shaft, choose the final drive to be close to the needed output RPM, install a Woodward Governor on the front of the engine connected using a belt, have a quick connect ball and socket connecting the governor arm to the VE throttle shaft.
In generator mode you would need to connect the governor to the VE, when you start the engine the governor would keep the engine at 1800 RPM rock solid, you would need to disconnect the governor to drive the truck.
Why would you need to connect another governor to the VE? The VE's in our trucks have their own internal variable speed governor, if a tractor running a PTO generator can handle it I would think one of our truck engines should be able to handle that. A simple hand throttle is all that would be needed, then simply run the rpm's up till the Hz and voltage are right.
If it were me, I'd get one of those PTO driven things, find a PTO and maybe a gear box or multi V belt drive to spin it at the right speed. I'd probably figure an engine speed around 1200 rpm. No need to wind it out for 30 hp or so. I'd molest the cruise control, either spoofing speed data to the PCU, or driving the vacuum control solenoids with a custom speed regulator circuit. I'd switch the wiring between them with a miniature multi pole relay called a cradle relay. Very reliable for small currents.
#18
Registered User
I think pickup and tractor governors are different so a hand throttle wouldnt keep it steady if the load changes. I have heard that there are problems when someone swaps a truck pump onto a tractor for that same reason. Although the load is so small compared to engine power that it probably wouldnt make much difference if the generator can account for it.
I do agree that 1200 rpms would be a good place to be and should be quite steady with the torque ratings we have.
Jim, I like those hydraulic units, never heard of that before. Any idea on rough cost?
I do agree that 1200 rpms would be a good place to be and should be quite steady with the torque ratings we have.
Jim, I like those hydraulic units, never heard of that before. Any idea on rough cost?
#19
Administrator
I think pickup and tractor governors are different so a hand throttle wouldnt keep it steady if the load changes. I have heard that there are problems when someone swaps a truck pump onto a tractor for that same reason. Although the load is so small compared to engine power that it probably wouldnt make much difference if the generator can account for it.
I do agree that 1200 rpms would be a good place to be and should be quite steady with the torque ratings we have.
Jim, I like those hydraulic units, never heard of that before. Any idea on rough cost?
I do agree that 1200 rpms would be a good place to be and should be quite steady with the torque ratings we have.
Jim, I like those hydraulic units, never heard of that before. Any idea on rough cost?
Not sure about the newer tractors but some of the older ones I have been around have the PTO setting marked on the tachometer.
PTO's bolted to the side of a transmission or transfer case come in different sizes and configurations depending on what you need, the PTO on a cement truck will be a lot more massive than one turning a winch on a pick-up, also there is no standard speed, it depends on your requirements although there is usually a safe speed
Not sure on the price but seeing it is an Onan thinking it is probably $6000.00 to $7000.00, I have seen them in fire trucks and they are nice.
#20
Administrator
Jim,
Why would you need to connect another governor to the VE? The VE's in our trucks have their own internal variable speed governor, if a tractor running a PTO generator can handle it I would think one of our truck engines should be able to handle that. A simple hand throttle is all that would be needed, then simply run the rpm's up till the Hz and voltage are right.
I would avoid using the cruise control at all costs. A simple hand throttle would work best, the VE has its own variable speed governor and should be more than capable of maintaining RPM like a tractor running a PTO generator would.
Why would you need to connect another governor to the VE? The VE's in our trucks have their own internal variable speed governor, if a tractor running a PTO generator can handle it I would think one of our truck engines should be able to handle that. A simple hand throttle is all that would be needed, then simply run the rpm's up till the Hz and voltage are right.
I would avoid using the cruise control at all costs. A simple hand throttle would work best, the VE has its own variable speed governor and should be more than capable of maintaining RPM like a tractor running a PTO generator would.
If you were to say use a vernier control on the VE pump and set the RPM at 1800 while it is powering your house and your AC or baseboard heaters kicked on the surge would affect the engine speed and you would loose frequency, voltage would drop, a motor trying to start on low voltage draws more current.
When you have a governor installed, the instant the drop was detected the engine would have speed up to keep you at 60 hz. and your voltage constant.
Not saying a hand control would not work, it would probably work fine as long as you have the rpm's up high enough into the torque curve.
I have felt 500Kw gensets dip when they were loaded.
Jim
#21
Administrator
http://www.scribd.com/doc/61298013/B...00-Tech-Manual
Jim
#22
Registered User
The internal governor in out VE controls the maximum speed of the engine by defueling, the governor used on generators detects engine speed either mechanically or electronically through a pickup in the flywheel housing, a lever connected to the throttle keeps the engine at the set speed.
Where as most other automotive applications for the VE had a Min-Max governor, Volkswagen diesels are probably the best known example of that. When Dodge went to the P-pump in 94 it had a Min-Max governor installed on it, that would not work very well for the application in question.
Most diesel gen set I've seen the injection pump governor was all that was used, the 40 kw kohler with a 4B cummins on it has a CAV pump with the throttle pulled to the stop with a spring which is set for 1800 rpms.
If anyone like reading there's an excellent explanation on the entire VE as well as the governors.
http://www.dieselbookmarks.com/bombers/VEPump.pdf
#23
Wow, this topic got a lot more attention than I thought it would!
Since I'm inexperienced with diesels but have been attempting to learn, I'm assuming:
I'm well aware that what's described on paper and looks simple can be rather complex to build. That's partially why I'm starting this now, before I ever tear into the truck to redo it.
Thanks, everyone, for responding.
Since I'm inexperienced with diesels but have been attempting to learn, I'm assuming:
- That because diesels are not governed with a butterfly throttle, controlling engine speed with an RPM-reacting governor is the norm, and so depending on the complexity, setting that RPM, matched to the generator head, can be fairly simple, on the D/W era trucks, but is harder on AD and newer trucks because of different control methods...
- Gearing either the PTO or stepping gearing between the PTO and the generator head is straightforward in principle...
- There are a couple of ways to establish a PTO, either off the transmission, or else off of the front end of the crank, both have their upsides and downsides...
I'm well aware that what's described on paper and looks simple can be rather complex to build. That's partially why I'm starting this now, before I ever tear into the truck to redo it.
Thanks, everyone, for responding.
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