I've got all my ducks in a row - 12cm wastegated housing with TurboMaster installed, 4" exhaust system with shortened downpipe, assorted extra clamps and hangers ready in the basement. I don't have gauges yet, I have to get rid of the boggy 21cm housing ASAP, so I have a bit of concern setting up the TurboMaster. The instructions give baseline settings for 30 and 38 psi - way too much for my stock fueling. Here's my plan, see if it sounds good: Set for less than 30 psi, take truck for a drive and watch for smoke at the top of 4th. If no smoke, back off setting further and repeat until smoke appears, then go back to last clean setting. Should give the ideal amount of boost for my fuel, right?

 

12cm housing? Drive very carefully until you get that pyrometer installed. <br><br>It will spool quick as a wink, but temps are gonna go up fast!<br><br>What setting are you gonna back off? Boost to lower air until it smokes, or full load fuel screw to add fuel? With the 12cm housing, you can probably lighten up the anaroid spring tension and turn the shaft to a fairly rich setting and get away with it.<br><br>Get the pyro installed.<br><br>OK, I re-read your post. Looks like you're gonna decrease boost pressure until you see smoke. Do you have smoke now?

 

Fueling is stock, I only have smoke until the bog monster spools up, then it clears out. I'm not too concerned about EGT with the 12 cm wastegated housing, since I don't tow anything and rarely have anything in the bed. The truck is almost always in local traffic, rarely get it in 5th, so it never does any long pulls. It's just the ideal commuter car for a truck driver. ;D Anything smaller feels like a go-kart. As you said, I will decrease boost until I see smoke, then go back to the last clean setting. This should make sure I don't overspeed the turbo and also keep the EGT from climbing due to excess backpressure.

 

Got started late, about 7:30, was done by 2. The 21 cm housing was very happy where it was, took about an hour to get it off. The exhaust is a tight squeeze over the axle, but it doesn't hit. The kit is from BigExhaust.com, you have to reuse your old hangers so get some extra 4&quot; clamps or be handy with a welder. I ended up having to cut 2&quot; out of the center pipe, the system is a little long. I also had to modify the downpipe for the wastegated housing. The downpipe has the turbo flange welded in, so I just cut the pipe off as close to the bend as possible, the machined the excess pipe off the flange and stuck it back in the pipe, then had a guy run a bead of weld around the flange. It clears the heater box insulation by a hair.<br> It drives like a new one now! It used to have awful lag, now it pulls strong from idle with no smoke. I adjusted the TurboMaster as posted above, it doesn't feel like I've lost any top end power. It's a lot louder at idle than it was with the 3&quot;, you can really hear the turbo now. ;D Did I mention I like it way better now? Many thanks to DTR member atc250r for the housing. Next step - gauges and injectors.

 

That is great!! I tell you, maybe I don't have my fuel turned up enough, but my EGT's are WAY down with the 12cm housing vs. the 21. It really makes me wonder how you have to have your truck set up before needing to swap up to the 16. <br><br>I haven't swapped to a 4&quot; exhaust, and I have to say it is the housing that makes the turbo louder as well -- I never used to hear it at idle, etc., and now it is there all the time.<br><br>I don't know if you saw my post about wate gate &quot;flutter&quot;, but I am curious if the geometry of the turbo-master solves this problem or what . . . ?<br><br>Also -- I am curious about how that big exhaust might clear a transfer case -- does your kit have the bend in it to go around the transfer case you don't have? <br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Alec

 

Alec-I don't remember your post on flutter, can you link to it?

I think my Turbo-Master fluttered today, but I don't know what the boost level was because I don't have a gauge yet. From measuring it and extrapolating from the 2 settings Turbo-Master lists, I was down around 15 psi. Details of the noise athttps://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=17631;start=0
Turbo-Master says it can control boost down to 14 psi, I may have just had it adjusted too loose and it started osscilating out of control. I'll know more once I get gauges.

The exhaust appears to be designed to go around a transfer case. From the downpipe it goes over towards the frame much more than is needed on my 2wd.

It does make sense that the housing would cause more turbo noise, because it's now spinning faster than before even at idle. I think a lot of guys go with the 16 because it's a straight bolt in, no downpipe mods needed. The reason I did exhaust and housing together was so it would be bolt in once I modified the new downpipe. I gotta say I'm very happy with the 12 cm, you don't know the meaning of bog until you've driven a 21 cm. It wouldn't spool until it was almost at the top of 3rd, then you'd lose boost shifting to 4th and it wouldn't spool back up until you were halfway up 4th. It was pretty fun in 5th at about 60, though.

 

Here is the thread I started asking about my flutter problem running the waste-gate without the pressure line attached: W/G flutter . . .

Funny -- I just did a search for flutter, and theres eam to be a few other posts about this, but it seems as though they are all over the place, some seam to be the sort of tinny rapping waste-gate flapping problem I (and I think you) are having, and others relate it to dumping air back through the compressor . . . It really seams to me that my problem is a typicl feedback circuit entering a positive feedback mode situation, probably encouraged by the &quot;pulse&quot; manifold and only having a waste-gate on one runner. I am hoping that setting up the actuator line and adding a heavier spring will take care of the problem (prevent the positve feedback mode from occurring).

If you find out anything interesting from the Turbo Master fellow, please let us know, also, if it isn't too much trouble, I'd realy like to see pictures of your exhaust install . . .

Thanks,

Alec

 

Turbo-Master says that their product won't flutter. They say the W/G only opens a few thousandths and the geometry is such that it doesn't flutter. They said it sounded like a boost leak, I went and double checked, all 4 boots seem ok, ran my fingers all around them, poked and prodded looking for tears, clamps are tight. I'm waiting for a call back now. It doesn't sound like the sort of noise a boost leak would make, it's kind of a clatter almost.

 

Alec-
My noise is definitely not the w/g fluttering, and now I don't think yours is either. I replaced the spring on the T-M with a deep socket to block it from moving at all, no change in the noise. From how stiff the old actuator I have laying around is, I don't think yours is moving. The T-M is literally so loose you can push it open with one finger on the actuating rod, to move the old actuator I had to clamp the rod in a vise and pull on the can very hard. Bill at T-M thinks the noise may be some intake turbulence. I'm planning on replacing the factory flex hose between the turbo and the air cleaner with two 45 degree boots and a section of aluminum tubing, I'll let you know if the noise changes. Or if something we aren't considering blows up.... :-X

 

???

You aren't making me happy with this information . . .

Just to clarify, though, can you see fluctuations in your boost pressure commensurate with the noise? My guage jumps around like crazy, which leads me to believe the turbine is too, and that is what really worries me -- I figure do it enough and the shaft will break . . .

I guess I will clamp my waste-gate shut and see what it does :-.

You can tell I'm disturbed, I have resorted to using emoticons . . .

Thanks for the information!

Alec

 

Alec-
No gauges yet, the truck doesn't run any different or make any smoke while the noise is happening. I can't hear the noise over the straight pipe when the windows are open, I can only hear it with the cab closed up. Is yours that quiet, or is it louder? Boost and pyro have been moved up the priority list, but gotta pay for the exhaust first.

 

The problem has been diagnosedto my satisfaction, see the answer at http://www.dodge-diesel.org/yabbse/i...=16410;start=0