dan1stgen

ok ive removed the axle b4 but how do i get that u joint out and where do i get that joint from? my dealers being shady with me any part #'s or any help would be greatly appreciated. Has anyone had to do this job b4? its a king pin fr axle dana 70 thanks yall.

Truck 91 W-250 Cummins TD N/I

Ace

It's a pretty big job, they prolly want to collect some big labor $$'s from you. Never attempted this myself, but I think there is a good writeup on Pirate 4x4 or one of those sites. I'm sure there's somebody else around here who can clue you in better.

dan1stgen

ive done a job like this on a jeep wrangler, and a old 1/2 ton chevy but my main problem is finding parts. i already had the axle out of the truck b4 just wondering how everyone else gets them joints out?

brainfade

Pull the spindle off the knuckle, six or eight little nuts and a dead blow hammer, then the whole mess slides out through the hole in the knuckle.

Doh! Just re-read the last post. I don't recall if the U-joints on these have internal (inside the yoke) clips or not, but remove which ever style clip it is and use either a press, big C-clamp or hammer to push the cross out of the yoke. I like to get a big socket that is just larger inside than the outside of the cup. Then put the socket over the cup, support the opposite part of the cross and push or hammer on the socket to push the cup out of the yoke.

If the cross is broken, you may have to find a socket or punch that is slightly smaller than the cup and push the cup into the center of the yoke. Be careful if you do this though as it's easy to bend the yoke and the new joint won't fit.

BC847

I've got to replace both joints in my heap's front axle, any weird seals to mess with? $70 use once in a lifetime tools?

dan1stgen

i know ill need to replace my inner axle seal also i just use a socket and a bunch of extentions i think i gotta pull my front gear case but no prob.
anyone got a line on parts ?????? u-joint, seal???

JD730

Seals are inside close to the center section, carrier has to be pulled to replace seals if I recall correctly.

cootz

Try these guy's, I've saved this page as a bookmark.

http://www.quad4x4.com/Dodge%201970-...King_Pin_Kits_

apwatson50

If its the same as a dana 44, which I assume it is, than this is correct.

The u-joint you can get from any decent parts store. If you can find a drive-train shop that carries spicer products that would be your best bet.

Falcon1

I just did both of mine. Mine took the 4000 lb u joints, I used a slide hammer and spindle tool. took me 4 hours to do both of them. Not to bad of job.

Greg

BC847

As a general rule, if I see no external evidence of leakage, do I have to replace the seals (those associated with the differential)?

Caver Dave

I wouldn't unless you're getting some seepage out of the axle tubes. On my Jeeps axle, the drips came *after* I swapped the u-joints! (but they were only 35 years old )

Taking the time clean out the tube ends/shaft and fully supporting the inner axle as it's inserted goes a LONG way towards keeping the seal from getting cankered or nicked by the splines!

JeePuller swears by the HF $39 variety balljoint presses... along with an impact, made quick work of cruded in ujoints, balljoints, & TREs!

Montana2x2

While it's apart I'd change the little needle bearing looking things in the back of the spindle, in my experiance they always seem to be bad. Inner axle seals have to be pulled from inside the center section. If your careful with removing/installing axles you should be ok.

CaptainChrysler

I just replaced mine last weekend. Its not too bad. I really was gonna take pics and post them, but got in too big of a hurry.
Remove wheel, brake caliper, lockout, rotor/ hub assy.
Remove 6 nuts holding spindle on. My spindle came off with a little wiggling.
I was surprized the bearing in the hub looked great with 225k on it. Seal (on axle) looked ok too. The U-joint is a presision 374, not cheap. I probably should have gotten Spicers, but oh well. I can get a deal at the local parts house, and they don't sell Spicer stuff.
They have the internal lock rings. I would recommend using a vise to R&R them. You will need a big socket as the cap pokes out of the yoke a little bit. I didn't even consider replacing the inner axle seals. Maybe if they start leaking bad.

dan1stgen

my joints falling apart i had to zip tie it to my axle to prevent it from further damaging itself or anything else im doin the job in the morn. weather permitting as well as a rear yoke replacement and front pinion seal along with a belt tensioner, and im replacing my front grille finally with my busted turn signal. at least ill try to do it all but parts and availability will tell. Thank you all for your support wish me luck.