BKTC

O.K. I searched this site and several others...........

I'm looking for a battery cable clamp that has extra "mounts" on it. Some where I saw one and read that it was for a hummer. Can't find anything that way either. It's not the military style clamp. It is a bolt on clamp that you have to solder/crimp the cable into but has a couple extra bolt on locations for extra wire attachments.

Any body know what I'm talking about and/or where I might find one. I'm replacing my battery and want to put on new clamps or maybe even new clamps/cables when I do.

Any help will be appricated............

BKTC aka Billy

cseby

if you are buying a new battery try this! i use a group 31 battery with stud posts.then i put lugs on the cable ends.

BILTIT

You are better off adding a distribution stud/block than adding a bunch of wires to the batt. connectors.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p912.html

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p913.html

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p4020.html

j_martin

8 way junction block

Power distribution blocks

Jim Lane

Is there anything here that might work?

http://www.noco-usa.com/pdf/Noco-Cat...inals-Lugs.pdf

I would trust one of these with your accessory wires crimped to a ring terminal or a remote accessory terminal.



http://www.electerm.com/battery.html

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d525.html

Way before I would trust one of these shiny plated ones, the wire is only retained with a set screw.



Most of the chrome plated terminal are for stereo shops that install mega watt amplifiers, they might look impressive but are not built to withstand harsh severe duty like the cast copper terminals or the Mil Spec military terminals where they are expected to function even though your HMMWV was dropped from an airplane.



Jim

NJTman

I second the motion....


it's a much safer alternative, and your wire ends never get corroded from battery gases.

cseby

do you guys run the fuseable link wires thru a power distribution block?njtman,did you delete the fuseable links and use the fuses in the power distribution block pictured?

BKTC

I like several of the suggestions I've seen here but if I locate the ones I was originally looking for I'll probably still use them. They are simple and I only have a couple of extra wires to mount and everything is already routed up to the battery terminal.

If things get more complicatd then the "Distribution blocks" look like the way to go.

Thanks for the input but keep looking ..............I really liked the ones I saw. My fault I did not bookmark them

Billy

Jim Lane

How come you have so much room next to your battery?

Some day I am going to move my 2 racks filled with circuit breakers off the fender, because every time I wash my truck I wash out the engine compartment and it takes me some time to check and dry out every connection using compressed air, does your fuse block have a waterproof cover that snaps over them?



West Marine
I have been past this place when I go to Balboa Island.

Jim

NJTman

No

I will be adding another distribution block at some time in the future, specifically for the fusable links, as I'm really not crazy about having them the way they are...


I used the distribution block pictured above in this thread..

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...k-t298672.html

I have a plow which required extra headlights, controller fuse, etc, as well as changing over my truck's headlamp system to bypass the headlight switch.

It's in the thread.



T.

NJTman

So much room ? I guess I'm just lucky, I suppose. Could you be a little more specific as to where, or what you're referring to. I'm a little dense @ times.


Unfortunately, fuseblock is not waterproof, as the cover has access ports on all sides for input, ground, and the takeoffs for each on either side. The cover is just to keep general stuff off of it and to prevent accidental grounding of the positive terminals.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details

According to the instructions on the package, the fuse block (itself) is "supposed" to be isolated with a 125A fuse or circuit breaker, such as this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syste...5016772&sr=1-9

Would be nice if the fuse for the block, was inside the block itself, like a real circuit panel in a home, where you could shut the whole panel down with a pull of a fuse.

I wish it was waterproof, but I guess at some time in the future, I may just have to upgrade to one, if I run into issues, such as you're describing.


West marine sells thie exact same one.... but around $15 more than amazon sells it for.

Bencie

The top pic that Jim Lane posted above is the one's that I used on my 90. I got them at Napa, a pos & neg, they worked great just had to add the lug ends to the cables that were attached to the original cable end. I like the part now that you can remove the cables for batt replacment or whatever and it doesn't disturb any of the wire connections.
They are called a military style end and very good quality, think they were like 10$ each.

kiszka6911

I will second the military style lugs. Got 1/0 eye lugs from the local fork lift supply shop. My truck was a farm truck and it had jump started more things then you can imagine. The lugs were chewed up and partially broken. Still working locating the distribution block on a very full fender but I now have rock solid battery connections.

dmosher1

Also check out BEP Marine for their Distribution Bus Bars. I mounted one of there's in my truck to clean up the mess on the Battery.

http://www.bepmarine.com/home-mainme...y-distribution