scottmn1

Does anybody know what the maximum amount of trans fluid that flows through the cooler lines during operation? The reason I am asking is because I have a remote transmissin fluid filter mounted on my frame rail between my transmission and cooler. I have this for two reasons. One for the added filter capacity of course, but also because I needed a port to put my trans temp gauge and the filter housing has just the right size threaded port for it. The filter that is currently instaled on it is a Wix 51515, which is the same filter that is used on the older Ford 460 engines and also the older Chrysler 440 engines. This filter filters to 19 microns and flows 7-9 gpm as per the Wix website. I am unsure if this allows enough flow for the transmission. If not, I need to find a filter that has more flow. That is the reason for my asking.

jughead

i think i read somewhere that a quart every 15 to 20 sec. is considered safe for lube which is where is goes after the cooler

dv_shane

i thought they should return 1 qt. every 10 sec. at 2000 rpm.
if your not flowing enough your trans guage will show it. i never ran the line thru the rad. added a cooler and run lines to it. my temp never got over 150 in the summer

high bid

Not to change the thread but....
If I add a spin on filter setup and cooler to the tranny line how will I know if it flows enough? the commander gauge is only temp, not psi.

Second question, when towing, my tran temps hit 185 deg, at what temp does it become damaging and is the fluid now bad? thanks

MunK

I have a remote filter/cooler on my Crew Cab. I run a Setrab Cooler with 3/8 lines on mine, the loop is as follows.

fluid leaves transmission...enters a spin on 1 quart filter (I don't have the truck here and the filter #escapes me but it's a Baldwin filter for Hyd fluid used on a hydrostatic farm implement) then it goes to the Setrab cooler with a switch there for 150 degrees that activates the cooler mounted electric fan...and back to the transmission. I have a temp sender in the pan and one after the cooler and a simple switch to go check which ever from the same Auto meter electric gage. This has survived 100K miles of towing playing and abuse with never a heating issue and I have a rather loose converter to handle the lumpy cam. I can't say this is going to be an across the board reality but I once did have to use a cheap "fram" oil filter in a pinch, and it did seem to run a little warmer...but I got the right filter back on it quickly.

NoRM
who knows my little Allis 720 won't even move with the wrong oil filter on it...but works perfectly with one designed for hyd fluid.

jughead

get a helper. trans in neutral. rear cooler line off. start engine catch fluid in quart container and time it this will get you close enough. rpm above 1000 rpm.