jeepsuck

the guys at the local parts place by my house claim royal purple max gear is good stuff. its 75wt90 full synthetic with a limitid slip additive. the bottle says its race proven and meets gl-4 and gl-5 performance requirements, whatever that means. it also claims "The cushioning molecules in Max Gear absorb gear impact to prevent fatique and wear. its great for off road use" it also claims it can help save fuel by reducing friction. anywho, all this is just mumbo jumbo if you dont have any real world results to go by. is it the proper wieght? i dont do much towing or hauling. anybody got any experience with the stuff? at $10 a qt i would like to know from people who have used it, besides the people selling it.

which leads me to my next ???

how many qts in my D70 rear and D60 front.

thanks for the input, guys.

apache

No experiance myself with it but ive heard of other that swear by it in jeeps etc.

bgilbert

Pass on their sales pitch of the garbage. Get yourself some quality conventional/dino gear oil. 75-90wt. Limited slip additive only if you have a LSD. Open diff no. To be safe I'd get 5 or 6 qts of gear oil. I prefer Napa gear oil.

jeepsuck

dino gear oil? you mean organic as opposed to synthetic? dont synthetics usually hold up to heat and wear better than conventional oil? correct me if im wrong. what is your basis for calling the purple stuff garbage? im not trying to be rude, contradictory or argumentative, i just want to know where you are coming from.

Thanks for your input.

Karsten.

bgilbert

Is that important to you? Didn't you say:
Garbage as in $10 a quart ... Snake oil comes to mind ...

I have no experience with the high dollar stuff, so sorry for poking fun at it. I figure if you change it out at least every other year and don't tow or haul heavy everyday, just put in a quality dino- non-synthetic/non leaker gear oil. Mine seems to be doing fine with slightly more torque than stock going through it .

99 cummins

I think you'll find that even Dodge reccomends synthetic in your diff's for towing. I am a die hard beleiver in synthetic's for all but motor oil. My personal preferance is the Royal Purple. I think the crankcase oil is good also, but in my case I didn't see enough fuel and Egt improvement to justify the price of synthetic as often as I change it.

jeepsuck

by all means, poke all the fun you want, just tell me why so i can understand what you are trying to tell me.

you say leaker, are you referring to the fact that synthetics can sometimes cause seals that have not seen synthetic to leak?

bgilbert

They've been known to leak at times. Although not everyone has experienced this.

Tow or haul often= synthetic worthwhile.

No tow or haul often= synthetic not worthwhile.

Also with high mileage/worn seals in diffs or t-case, expect to do a seal job soon after install of synthetic oil. But as said before, not everyone will experience a leak. I have on t-case and rear end.

I am a believer in change it often, use a less expensive quality dino based oil. LOL, then again with the expensive synthetics you may end up living by that too, have to change it often because of a leak hehee.

jeepsuck

yeah, my freind keeps trying to get me to switch to NEO synthetic motor oil but im kinda scared to because i dont want to start a huge leak. that would just suck.

my T-case is already leaking a lil, so im not gonna waste the money on a synthetic when its just gonna slowly drip out, although the leak is not that bad, but who knows, maybe it would get worse.

do i put the same stuff in the 205 as i do in the dana's?

bgilbert

Yes. Either 80w, 90w, 75-80w, 75-90w. I don't think 85-140w is recommended though in the 205.

99 cummins

I get the impression here that people think the synthetic is like an acid litteraly causing these leaks and that is not the case. The synthetics just leak out of weak spots in your seals because of the additional lubricating quallities over Dino oil. If the synthetics are leaking out it is because you already have a leak to begin with.

Mudcat

I've been down the synthetic road. While some people prefer it over the dino oil, I just couldn't justify the cost. I change my oils frequently no matter what I am using. For a guy like this I doubt you will ever see the benefits of the synthetics. I use Kendal gear oil and Kendal additive. I've had some chattering problems with the Valvoline dino and semi-synthetic with the additive they sell at the zone parts houses. I was going to replace my clutches in the rear diff. Went to the local tranny rebuilder he told me to try the Kendal and if it didn't fix it he would give me another fill with the clutch pack. Changed it and no more problems. Enough proof for me.

But if you feel better using $10 a qt synthetic rather than frequently changing it with dino then by all means do it. It's just a personal preference.

I do use synthetic in my quads engine though. They tend to run cooler on the synthetic and it just takes 3 qts.

bgilbert

Most of us have 13-20 year old vehicles too, not 0-5 year old vehicle/seals .

99 cummins

If you got the original seals still in your truck I envy you. A few in the engine block is all I got left for originals, the rest have already been changed or now waiting to be changed right now.

Cyborrg

I've used RP gear oil in my jeep, boat, a couple of scouts and several dodge 4x4s. Do it and don't look back. My jeep with 160k on the ticker has had RP gear oil in it forever. The LSD work as it should, rear end has no howl, back lash or any other problem. That is after towing a 20' boat a bunch. Which is also loaded with RP. I couls go on about the other vehicles who's longevity is their testiment. 300K + in the old Ramcharger with fulltime.
As far as leaks go the jeep was th only one that had a problem. A leaky rear main got bad at around 120k and was replaced.
You like your truck right?
You might change the gear oil every 25k, right?
If you're like me and keep you vehicles a while, then RP is good for the long haul. If your going to trade it away in three years, who cares?

And Ma Chrysler recommends syn.