BILTIT

So i am back. I mounted the steering box and installed the pitman arm. Tested the steering......the draglink hits the crossmember when turning full right. The steering arm also has a C-C (kingpin to TRE) of 8'', 6'' would be much better as Meiser has pointed out. The draglink has 1'' too much offset and the double bend is no good. I am going to call a local shop and see if they have a reamer (for steering arm) and tube and may get them to make up what i need, tired of the waiting game on a kit that was supposed to fit and clearly had never been checked. I will give my feedback to NWFAB so they can hopefully make a kit that will work but i need to get my truck on the road quicker than they will be able to supply me with the correct parts.

Some pics:

apwatson50

wow sucks that NOTHING with your kit is working right. I sure hope NWfab makes it right!

BILTIT

It does, been a big PITA!

Mieser

yeah, it totally sucks they sold you something that just didn't work. This thread should now help people out with the conversion. I think I was the first person to make lower height crossover steering work, it took me a LOTS of hours of measuring and computer modeling to get something that would work on a mostly un-modifed truck. I design mechanical systems for a living as an engineer. I didn't have to cut the engine crossmember or anything.

I get a lot of 'will this work?' questions on the conversion. The only combo I know that works is the one I built. My install is TIGHT and there isn't much room for a different length this or that....

The only real thing that I think can change is the vertical height of the steering arm to account for different spring pack thickness and vehicle height. I think it would be possible to make a crossover steering conversion work with sagging stock springs but the steering arm might not be able to get vertically short enough before its thickness becomes marginal ( on a simple arm ).

I have listed it before....

Stock steering box in the 2wd location
Jeep WJ steering arm ( alignment keys removed, lager taper )
Single bend drag link
6.0" center to center, 1.5" tall steering arm

Best of luck to people to try it with different parts. I don't think its cool that NWF sold a kit that had almost no hope of working on a stock(ish ) truck.

simplysmn

Biltit only question I have is at full compression on the spring's will it hit and cause Major troubles while driving ? You have done some Awesome work and I'm not trying to blast you I'm just asking cause it look's to me like there would be troubles if the arm got jammed ???

BILTIT

I don't think the spring will flex enough to hit the arm, there is not alot of movement there really when looking at where the stock bumpstops are.

I will be setup up pretty much the same as Meiser when i am finished and he hasn't had any issues yet so i don't suspect to have any either.

I am taking the truck to a local shop tomorrow as he has a reamer and will drill and taper the hole in the steering arm so i can have a 6'' C-C and we will talk about a draglink. He is hesitant to build a draglink for something on-road, legality reasons. I will tell him it is used off-road only.

BILTIT

If i do ever have any issues after this is all said and done, i will lift it and be done with the problem.

I have seriously contemplated a 2'' lift as of now but not sure how much it will help.

1990

I've had better luck with mine. I did i 2wd to 4wd and the crossmember is closer to the oil pan.

I still have to add a single bend in the drag link to give the oil pan more room. The WF pitman arm fit perfect. Thanks BILTIT for sending me the one that didn't fit.

Here some pics.

BILTIT

No problem, Thank you for buying it!

BILTIT

So the more i look at this the more i realize i want new springs, even new stock springs i think would help.

I am thinking about ordering 2'' alcans just to get some space between the spring and TRE.

I have sent an email to NWF about what i need and hoping they will send me the correct parts next week.



The positive side of this whole deal is that its finally on its wheels again and i can move it around.

BILTIT

Does anyone have stock height dimensions from frame to ground?

I need to figure how much lift i have if any for ordering springs.

Rick 12v CTD

make sure you get the measurers tire size too as that will affect the measurement.

I had 38" IIRC from ground to the peak of the fender well with 33" tires. the other side had a broken leaf and had 37" I think. The rears (both sides) were also 38".

And that was with VERY worn out springs.

BILTIT

ok thanks. I run 265/75-16's.

I was looking at Meisers pics and i don't have as much clearence between the spring and TRE as he does so it must be due to my sagging springs.

Mieser

Best way to track spring height is from the fender lip to the top of the hub. These two things stay fairly consistent on most trucks.

I'm surprised you don't have more clearance. My truck has flat original main leaves with a TALL spring pack with like 2-3 extra leaves. I had to make my steering arm 1.5" tall to get the drag link to clear the spring back. This was one of the major reasons I couldn't use an off the shelf steering arm....and center to center length.

On my truck, a straight drag link cleared lock to lock with the truck static. It was VERY close ( 1.25" dia link ). I had to put the bend in it for clearance when the suspension compressed

BILTIT

I spoke to NWF and they are sending me a straight draglink next week. The steering arm has a hole at 5'' C-C which i am going to try. I will most likely order 2'' lift springs next week, just trying to figure out if that is enough or too much compared to what i have now.

They don't want to make a single bend link as they say it puts too much angle on the TRE at the pitman arm. I figure i can add a bend if needed myself once i have a straight link here.