maninblack2k

As the thread title states I'm wondering if anybody is running and/or making their own biodiesel. It seems based on first gen engine specs the original cummins should be the most "happy" if you will at using that fuel.

I'm looking at possibly purchasing a pre-made processor station so any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

dzl_damon

No, a 2nd gen p pump would be most happy, engine oil lubricates at least half of it. If you make a mistake, the diesel lubricated VE pump will toast itself... ask me how I know .

KD93

Ok, I'll bite. How do you know?

JustRamIt91

just add used engine oil or TCW-3 oil to your mix and you should be golden... i bought 5 gallons of the stuff 6 years ago when it was on sale for $2 a gallon.

Also used motor oil seems to burn better than diesel does in my truck.

theidlemind

I've been running home brew for over two years now, no issues. Make sure your fuel is fully converted and perfectly dry.
I usually run B100 nine months of the year and adjust for temperatures the other three.
I hope you aren't buying a plastic tank processor.

JustRamIt91

whats wrong with those?? does it throw the pH off?

dzl_damon

had water in it... pump seized. Hence my 2000hr replacement military pump on the utility truck.

I'm not going to say that I didn't screw up though... It was my fault. The same fuel would have done much less issues in my old 300D which has an inline pump like a P-pump engine would. Mine sheared the key off the pump shaft.

maninblack2k

Can you reccomend one? The one I saw was a reasonable deal but I'm all for spedning more if it's a good setup. I want to do it right the first time.

Santaclaus

tAKE A LOOK AT:
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/foru...1/m/2001011761

Bruce M

I have been running B100 for the last 5 or 6 years.
The only problem is the the 2 micron filter installed ahead of the lift pump
which only runs on suction.
I have to change it about every 1500 miles.
Have never had to change the OEM fuel filter which I think is around 10 microns.
The only time I purchased diesel was on a 800 mile trip and it was under $2.00/gallon.
I make the B100 using an old electric water heater and a stainless steel tank
to wash with water.

theidlemind

I will second the water heater processor idea. The plastic tank melting/sagging point is way too close to the temperature you need for processing. Too easy to melt a tank and cause a fire. Plastic tanks are fine for washing and drying your fuel. The biodiesel infopop is a great site to learn the process and get help.

oly_fab

I've been running B100 for a couple years now. I also blend (SVO and RUG) in the summer. Truck runs fine on both. With bio you dont need to add any lube as it lubes the pump better than ULSD. DO NOT mix used motor oil I have had issues with this. It seems that the used oil burns at a diffrent rate than bio or SVO and leaves deposits on the injectors.

I run a cheap disposable filter, a racor 500 then the stock one,carry spares as when you first start running bio you'll clean any junk thats in the tank and you will clog filters. Also before it ever see's the truck I filter it with a 10,5 and 2 micron filters

Processing I use a 80 gal water bladder tank(bladder removed) that has a waterheater element in it. It then goes into a 55 gal poly drum(all drums open top) with 5 gal of water and a fish tank bubbler. Dont use the bubbler stones you get at the fish store bio will eat them. I bubble for 24 hrs then let it sit 24 hrs, then it goes to another 55 gal poly drum with hard wood chips, this removes soaps. This sits for 48 hrs. The last drum is steel and it is for final settling 3-5 days and ANY soap that left falls out. All drums have stand pipes so it dont pull soaps/junk into the bio.

I also agree check out infopop site do ALOT of reading make some small test batches and observe all saftey precautions, your dealing with some nasty stuff when making bio.

Stu