Another fusable link delete
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Another fusable link delete
Just thought i would post a photo of my fusible links delete as I hadn't seen one I liked before doing mine. One delete is on my 2wd std, the other is on my 4wd auto(more wires)
Ok, ill explain first I made a platform of stainless plate to bolt everything to as you see in the pictures. Then I open up the harness all the way to the battery and the other way to where the harness splits to go into the bulkhead connector into the cab. Now you should have the ducks foot fuseable links in front of you and possibly a few more. Cut them all out, the wires that are left can be terminated on the fuse block however they may need to be extended by a few inches. the Big green wire on the ducks foot is the feed directly from the battery and that can be removed completely as you can now run a new wire from the the battery to the new fuse block to distribute power instead. The alternator wire which is the big one that wants to go towards the cab can be spliced onto a new wire and then put on a breaker or fuse and to the battery. I did the same with the grid heaters (135A CB) on my 4wd but not the 2wd as it is my summer truck and i dont care about the heater much. on the 2wd I crimped the big connectors with a hammer crimper then soldered them. The 4wd I used the k09-3gl and k05-1gl crimpers and soldered them then heat shrink or splicing tape then electrical tape if I lacked the correct size heat shrink. you will avoid burning tape or accidentally shrinking the heat shrink tubing by wrapping a wet rag around the wires insulation before hand, also a steel plate behind the termination if you are using a torch for the big terminations. On my 4wd I will note that I crimped the grid heater and fuse block feed wires into the same lug at the battery end to reduce the number of terminations up there.
That is all there is to it no complicated wiring issues just pretty much connecting all the F/L ends to the fuse block.
Parts required
-Blue sea 12 circuit fuse block
-#4,6,10,12,14,16 wire
-#2 compression lug for battery end of the 3 #6 wires from fuse block and grid heaters
-#4 butt splice and 1/4, 3/8 compression lug (to connect to wire from alternator, attach to CB(1/4) and then from CB(1/4) to battery post (3/8)
-#6 1/4 compression lugs for grid heater CB feed from battery and re termination of feed from CB to relay, #10 compression lug for Fuse block feed connection
-I used some stand offs for wire attachment.
Ok, ill explain first I made a platform of stainless plate to bolt everything to as you see in the pictures. Then I open up the harness all the way to the battery and the other way to where the harness splits to go into the bulkhead connector into the cab. Now you should have the ducks foot fuseable links in front of you and possibly a few more. Cut them all out, the wires that are left can be terminated on the fuse block however they may need to be extended by a few inches. the Big green wire on the ducks foot is the feed directly from the battery and that can be removed completely as you can now run a new wire from the the battery to the new fuse block to distribute power instead. The alternator wire which is the big one that wants to go towards the cab can be spliced onto a new wire and then put on a breaker or fuse and to the battery. I did the same with the grid heaters (135A CB) on my 4wd but not the 2wd as it is my summer truck and i dont care about the heater much. on the 2wd I crimped the big connectors with a hammer crimper then soldered them. The 4wd I used the k09-3gl and k05-1gl crimpers and soldered them then heat shrink or splicing tape then electrical tape if I lacked the correct size heat shrink. you will avoid burning tape or accidentally shrinking the heat shrink tubing by wrapping a wet rag around the wires insulation before hand, also a steel plate behind the termination if you are using a torch for the big terminations. On my 4wd I will note that I crimped the grid heater and fuse block feed wires into the same lug at the battery end to reduce the number of terminations up there.
That is all there is to it no complicated wiring issues just pretty much connecting all the F/L ends to the fuse block.
Parts required
-Blue sea 12 circuit fuse block
-#4,6,10,12,14,16 wire
-#2 compression lug for battery end of the 3 #6 wires from fuse block and grid heaters
-#4 butt splice and 1/4, 3/8 compression lug (to connect to wire from alternator, attach to CB(1/4) and then from CB(1/4) to battery post (3/8)
-#6 1/4 compression lugs for grid heater CB feed from battery and re termination of feed from CB to relay, #10 compression lug for Fuse block feed connection
-I used some stand offs for wire attachment.
The following 6 users liked this post by kentbrockman:
bigredbrick (07-03-2021),
DevynBurk (06-28-2021),
edwinsmith (06-28-2021),
nothingbutdarts (06-29-2021),
oliver foster (06-28-2021),
and 1 others liked this post.
#2
Registered User
Alright who let this guy on here making some of us look like back yard hackers .. oh wait alot of us are J/K beautiful work, alot of time and thought went into both of those installs
The following users liked this post:
thrashingcows (06-28-2021)
The following 2 users liked this post by kentbrockman:
bigredbrick (07-04-2021),
nothingbutdarts (07-04-2021)
#7
Registered User
I agree with the others…nice, much cleaner look than OEM!
But you lost me in the directions (I’m not very “electrically inclined” in my old age as compared to my younger days).
Thanks for posting!!
But you lost me in the directions (I’m not very “electrically inclined” in my old age as compared to my younger days).
Thanks for posting!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cfdlighthouse
4th Gen High Performance and Accessories 2010 and Up
17
06-11-2012 09:20 AM
SknirB
4th Gen High Performance and Accessories 2010 and Up
29
07-21-2011 01:09 PM