air bags for front lift?
#16
Registered User
I gotta put my two cents in on this one. I too have thought about air bags but the cost doesn't justify the means. The Skyjacker leafs seem to be the best and safest approach. Even with them however IF you are entertaining the use of a snow plow the Factory Service Manual recommends air shocks in place of the factory shocks. Gabriel will make the shocks to your specs for about $150.00 a pair. Of course check with your local state regs. in regards to using air shocks on the front. I read that Virginia doesn't allow them.
#17
Originally Posted by ruquik
Sure, $900 for two bags is retarded
There is nothing to it, why not just do it the right way and change the springs out. And the original quesiton had nothing to do with plows.
Why no just fabb up a reverse ladder bar sytem and use it with the bags, instead of edit it by using old sagging springs, thar could probably stand to, at the very least, have new bushings put in.
Also, air ride suspensions require a lot more dampening to control the "floatyness" of the bags.
There is nothing to it, why not just do it the right way and change the springs out. And the original quesiton had nothing to do with plows.
Why no just fabb up a reverse ladder bar sytem and use it with the bags, instead of edit it by using old sagging springs, thar could probably stand to, at the very least, have new bushings put in.
Also, air ride suspensions require a lot more dampening to control the "floatyness" of the bags.
#18
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Originally Posted by ruquik
Sure, $900 for two bags is retarded
But the original poster already had the air-bags, brackets, ect... So it would basically cost him nothing. That being the case I would say that the bags would get him what he wants. There is no safety, or technical reason why they wouldn't work for what he wants.
#19
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THIS KIND OF SYSTEM IS NOT A LIFT KIT. end of story.
Because you can only add air to the bag enough to bring it back to stock height (Do you know what height that is?). Any thing added to that to raise it higher than stock will now create two compressive forces going against each other. Basicaly you are pushing the spring the opposite the way is should go, if you dod that your front end will not only ride like crap because the spring/bag conflict but also because you now haw moved the shackle position ( it iwll now be more stright up and down)
Hey, why don't you just throw some aluminum lift blocks under the front . Seriously don't do that.
Because you can only add air to the bag enough to bring it back to stock height (Do you know what height that is?). Any thing added to that to raise it higher than stock will now create two compressive forces going against each other. Basicaly you are pushing the spring the opposite the way is should go, if you dod that your front end will not only ride like crap because the spring/bag conflict but also because you now haw moved the shackle position ( it iwll now be more stright up and down)
Hey, why don't you just throw some aluminum lift blocks under the front . Seriously don't do that.
#20
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I think that's why Kelderman has the installer flip three of the leaves in the pack when installing their front airbags. Being flipped, they're essentially doing nothing but being a zero-rate lift block, especially at stock ride height...a height that can easily be determined by making some reference marks before flipping the leaves. Air the bag up to the reference marks, add some dampers that are up to the task of controlling an airbag and away you go. Sure there are other options, but using a leaf to locate the axle is A:cheap and B:already there, so, since the truck was designed around that geometry, why not take advantage of that while still having many (not all) of the benefits of air? Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't shell out 900 clams for that setup...especially when I found how cheap airbags of all shapes and sizes are at the local Fleet Pride. Got my angle iron at the scrap yard and son't plan on having more than 200 bucks into the whole en-chalada.
#22
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I agree, not as a lift.
edit: I would think from a safety stand point, some limiting straps would be needed to keep the bags from over-extending in an off-camber or (not that this would ever happen) a hard launch that really rolls the suspension to one side. Either way, articulation would be limited to the design of the bag being used, id think...
edit: I would think from a safety stand point, some limiting straps would be needed to keep the bags from over-extending in an off-camber or (not that this would ever happen) a hard launch that really rolls the suspension to one side. Either way, articulation would be limited to the design of the bag being used, id think...
#24
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slightly longer shackles will help when I lift it.
Im only talking about 2-3" hear. I see no reason why this would not work. yes when you try to push down on the leaf to much you will be trying to streach the leaf. but it wold take 6" of so to get to that point.
and $900 I can bag a whole s10 with front back side to side with 10 gallonds of air and compressors for $900
Im only talking about 2-3" hear. I see no reason why this would not work. yes when you try to push down on the leaf to much you will be trying to streach the leaf. but it wold take 6" of so to get to that point.
and $900 I can bag a whole s10 with front back side to side with 10 gallonds of air and compressors for $900
#25
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Originally Posted by keller
slightly longer shackles will help when I lift it.
as for the Keldermann system. i have a rear system on my truck and love it. and i am running a 4" lift. its worth every penny if your towing a lot. @ 8k-11k you cant even fill that trailer bouncing around. i am glad it was installed on to my truck when i bought it. i will be upgrading to some 6" springs some day in the near future. and at that point i will be adding bags on the front. atop the springs. not to gain lift, but to soften the ride. point is the keldermann system for the rear is some $$$ but its worth it if your towing! just my opinion on the subject
Bob
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