TIMMY22

Ok,

The second truck in my sig.

Truck ran fine, then I couldn't help myself to start tampering with the pump. It's definitely a disease no doubt.

I followed directions in the sticky and I...

Turned smoke screw in 2 turns.

Turned the diaphragm so the deepest side faces radiator.

Took the lock collar off the fuel screw and turned it in 3 times.

I had the 2x6 ready when I started up.

After this, I had to back way down on the idle screw to the point where I had almost nothing left.

I was able to get it to idle pretty close at least by ear to 850.

Now, If you rev it up and let off sharply, She wants to drop down below an idle to the point where it will actually stall. I tried bringing the idle way up and it still wants to drop below the set idle speed for a sec when you let off.

Then, I re-indexed the throttle lever 1 notch CCW and re-adjusted the idle screw (it wouldn't even start until I turned it 10 times or so)

I even tried turning the fuel screw back in 1/2 turn, didn't seem to make a difference.

Now, Ive read about the 10 O'Clock/ 4 O'Clock orientation of the throttle shaft. I'm assuming this is the screw slot angle we are talking. Should I try 1 more notch CCW on the shaft?

I took some picture so everyone can see what I have here.

Thanks for the help guys!

wannadiesel

You have a LOT of idle screw showing, it is definitely clocked one spline too loose.

TIMMY22

Not sure if maybe I jumped 2 splines on accident but the last time I had it with just about no threads showing. So these return to idle symptoms are there at the present settings in the pics all the way till no threads showing.

I even tried to shorten and lengthen the throttle rod with no difference.


In fact, if you "snap" the throttle with the rod removed, it will just about stall. So, this tells me the problem is not in any linkage beyond the throttle lever.

1985cucv

ok heres the thing if you dont have any problems with it idling down when your reving it up your ok. what i did was took off the index and you can spin the shaft by hand. spin it until it gets tight youll know what i mean. if you go to far it will make the rpms go up if you spin it to just where its idling where you need it to then throw your throttle index on and you can adjust the stops to figure out where wot is and your idle speed does that make sense?

TIMMY22

I think I already did what your saying. Just that once I had it indexed so low it would not run until I turned the idle screw way in like in the pics.

Does anyone know if the indexing has anything to do with what almost seems like the low speed governor spring tension?

Tron

I just read in another thread here that someone turned in there fuel screw to far and bent the lever it pushes on. They found it when he sent it back to the shop that built it and they removed the top and found the lever bent over.

From what I remember it had a lack of power and did not want to run properly. 3 turns right off the bat seems like a lot to start with.

TIMMY22

Geez, you would think that you would have a runaway before you would bend something. There is no lack of power. Seems I read a lot of folks going up to 4+ turns. I think they said low risk of runaway at 3-4 turns.

Bob Beauchaine

Mine idled at 850 for about 3 years until I had the 3 GSK spring put in then it jumped up to 950. I wound up re-indexing the throttle lever one notch to get back to 800. Your sig says you've got a 5 speed so I wouldn't worry all that much nabout it. If it were an automatic then I would worry. If you want to re-index the pump you will have to go counter clockwise - 1 notch.

Bob

TIMMY22

It's actually tough to shift when the RPM's drop below idle when you let off. Also, If it does stall, it's dangerous because you loose your power steering and brakes. I've been reading about sticky or broken "tophat" spring. Guess you tangle with it when you install a 366 spring. If it is just "sticky", what should I run in the fuel to possibly help clean it?

TIMMY22

Alright,

I re-indexed back to here...


And it's still doing it.

I double checked the spring under the throttle lever linkage to make sure it was hooked properly at both ends. I tried to take a picture but it's a tight angle.



I even backed the fuel screw out 1/2 more turn and I moved the AFC diaphragm back to the reference point of where I started.

I tried a good dose of Howes fuel conditioner too.

I'm leaning toward something internal.

bgilbert

You've got the fuel screw in too far. Back it out a turn then see if it still does the stalling. If it does, back it out some more. Not all pumps will act the same under the same conditions/tuning.

TIMMY22

Ok,

This is getting more interesting by the minute. I decided to start working my way backwards on what I did to the pump. I marked everything so I could put it back as suggested.

I moved the AFC diaphragm back, started it up, no difference.

I turned the star wheel back, started it up, no difference.

I turned the fuel screw back in as Bgilbert suggested and BINGO!


Ok, now here is the weird part.


When I first bought the truck I noticed when it idled, the stick shift and the steering column had a slight shake. Seemed to think it was normal for a 17 year old rig. Then, if you let the clutch out in first, it would kind of "hop" a little as the clutch was engaging. Again this was very very slight and seemed to do it even if you rested your foot on the pedal to increase the idle a little. It almost acted like the clutch was not aligned properly and was slightly out of balance.
Yet, this would go away as you let the clutch out and started to accelerate.


Now, When I turned in the fuel screw, These "hoppy" symptoms seemed to go away, yet I was so tuned into the power and the smoke that I really didn't notice that the "hoppyness" went away. I almost forgot about it.

This morning, I turned the fuel screw back to it's original position, and the near stall issue has gone away and the "hoppy" idle is back.

So, I'm thinking It has to be something to do with that idle/tophat spring or linkage. Almost like there is a tug of war going on in there. Depending on where I have the settings adjusted, It shows different symptoms.


So I ordered a 366 spring, the idle/tophat spring, and the idle spring cap/retainer. A grand total of about $20.


Hey, good thing is, I'll bet I can re-index the throttle linkage on any VE pump blindfolded. Bet I did it 10 times trying to figure this out.

Bob Beauchaine

The "hop" is normal for the getrag with the stock clutch. It is a driveline alignment issue. Dodge had a "fix" for the problem. Where the carrier bearing hangs from the frame check to see if there is a 1/2" spacer between the carrier bearing mount and the frame. If it's there then Dodges "fix" was done if not then it's your choise as to whether or not to to do the "fix". It includes both the spacer and shims to reset the rear axle angle. I had mine done under warranty and it helped but the hop did not go away completely - until I installed the SBC Con-O clutch.

Bob

TIMMY22

Bob,

I don't think it's a drive line hop because it will do it in neutral. You only feel it letting the clutch out at an idle or just above. You would have to drive it to tell what I'm talking about. I definitely appreciate the suggestion though. And again, this idle hop went away when I turned in the fuel screw. I know your probably thinking because it inadvertently changed the idle setting as well but no, this is like a slight idle surging hop and it will do it from say 600-1000rpm.

It's got to be some sort of spring issue because I noticed now that the fuel screw is back out, the accelerator pedal is much lighter to push now.

I'm hoping that I will find something obvious when the top of the pump comes off.

wannadiesel

I'm betting the new idle screw clears it up. If not the governor is worn out.