93 Won't crank - what am I missing?
#1
93 Won't crank when turning key - what am I missing?
Hi folks
Help me figure out what I'm missing here.
93 D250, auto transmission. Everything fully functional for years until I get in for lunch today. Turn key, no crank.
Here's what I've done so far --
- Swap A/C relay (known good) for starter relay. Nothing.
- Replace ignition switch with new (already had it, so tried it). Nothing
- Checked fusible links, none broken (I have replaced most of the suspect wiring on this truck over the years and improved grounds everywhere.).
- Checked fuses - none found to be bad.
- Battery is a few months old, but obviously not the problem.
Verified that there is power going to the relay from the battery, and to the ignition switch. When I hold the key forward for start, no power ever comes on the yellow wire, nor is there any power ever to the yellow wire on the relay. If I leave the key in the ON position and jump the starter, it will crank and immediately start. ALL electronics work (a/c, lights, blinkers, horn, etc...).
So questions - Anything obvious I'm missing? Also, shouldn't there be power on the yellow wire on the keyswitch when cranking?
I initially thought the problem was in the keyswitch because something just didn't "feel" right. I haven't tried taking the switch off and making sure that the locks inside the steering column for the transmission and steering wheel aren't impacting it in some way.
Thanks!!!
Help me figure out what I'm missing here.
93 D250, auto transmission. Everything fully functional for years until I get in for lunch today. Turn key, no crank.
Here's what I've done so far --
- Swap A/C relay (known good) for starter relay. Nothing.
- Replace ignition switch with new (already had it, so tried it). Nothing
- Checked fusible links, none broken (I have replaced most of the suspect wiring on this truck over the years and improved grounds everywhere.).
- Checked fuses - none found to be bad.
- Battery is a few months old, but obviously not the problem.
Verified that there is power going to the relay from the battery, and to the ignition switch. When I hold the key forward for start, no power ever comes on the yellow wire, nor is there any power ever to the yellow wire on the relay. If I leave the key in the ON position and jump the starter, it will crank and immediately start. ALL electronics work (a/c, lights, blinkers, horn, etc...).
So questions - Anything obvious I'm missing? Also, shouldn't there be power on the yellow wire on the keyswitch when cranking?
I initially thought the problem was in the keyswitch because something just didn't "feel" right. I haven't tried taking the switch off and making sure that the locks inside the steering column for the transmission and steering wheel aren't impacting it in some way.
Thanks!!!
#2
Try jumping directly to the starter solenoid, that will eliminate the starter as the problem. Are you sure that the battery is not discharged, maybe for bad alternator or bad vampire drain? To eliminate the starter switch, which is remote of the ignition key cylinder, you could try removing the plastic guard from the steering column and work the actuating rod to the switch by hand, but I would start simple and work to complicated, good luck...Mark
#3
As mentioned, I've already jumped the starter and it starts just fine. No problem with the battery, etc....there's just no power going to the start relay when you turn the key to "start"
Is there a rod in the steering column that works a switch?? I thought in this series trucks the switch was all contained? My 87 Ramcharger has a rod that you can pull to start it, but I wasn't aware one was like this in the 93. The steering columns are very different.
Is there a rod in the steering column that works a switch?? I thought in this series trucks the switch was all contained? My 87 Ramcharger has a rod that you can pull to start it, but I wasn't aware one was like this in the 93. The steering columns are very different.
Try jumping directly to the starter solenoid, that will eliminate the starter as the problem. Are you sure that the battery is not discharged, maybe for bad alternator or bad vampire drain? To eliminate the starter switch, which is remote of the ignition key cylinder, you could try removing the plastic guard from the steering column and work the actuating rod to the switch by hand, but I would start simple and work to complicated, good luck...Mark
#4
As mentioned, I've already jumped the starter and it starts just fine. No problem with the battery, etc....there's just no power going to the start relay when you turn the key to "start"
Is there a rod in the steering column that works a switch?? I thought in this series trucks the switch was all contained? My 87 Ramcharger has a rod that you can pull to start it, but I wasn't aware one was like this in the 93. The steering columns are very different.
Is there a rod in the steering column that works a switch?? I thought in this series trucks the switch was all contained? My 87 Ramcharger has a rod that you can pull to start it, but I wasn't aware one was like this in the 93. The steering columns are very different.
#5
I'll edit the title since it is a little confusing.
Yeah, it won't crank with the key. There's no power getting to the starter relay when the key turns. Made sure power is in all the right places, and then replaced the key switch with a new one I had, and nothing. But will crank if you jump 12v to the solenoid on the starter.
Yeah, it won't crank with the key. There's no power getting to the starter relay when the key turns. Made sure power is in all the right places, and then replaced the key switch with a new one I had, and nothing. But will crank if you jump 12v to the solenoid on the starter.
When you said won't crank in the title, that means it won't crank, like spin at all. So you are saying that it cranks but won't start. I am not sure about the '93, but mine has a starter switch mounted on the steering column that is connected by a rod to the key cylinder. It could be either, but I am sure that someone that knows the later trucks will chime in...Mark Edit: I see, it just won't crank with the key, I'm so confused
#7
Haven't check the neutral safety switch, but it just dawned on me that I didn't. D'oh. That's probably it. I didn't check to see if there was a ground on the relay.
I'll check it and report back.
I'll check it and report back.
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#8
If it feels funny when you turn the key, the problem may be the lock cylinder. Remove the lock cylinder from the ignition switch and have a look at the end of the lock cylinder that engages the ignition switch. It should look like a semi-circle type eccentric with a notch cut out of it, but quite often a chunk of metal will break off of this piece, so it is no longer capable of turning the ignition switch quite far enough to get to the crank position.
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Rickcher (12-17-2016)
#10
GOOD CALL -- I just picked up the old ign switch -- looked inside, and this fell out. I'd bet that's the problem. Will check in the AM. Thank you sir!!
If it feels funny when you turn the key, the problem may be the lock cylinder. Remove the lock cylinder from the ignition switch and have a look at the end of the lock cylinder that engages the ignition switch. It should look like a semi-circle type eccentric with a notch cut out of it, but quite often a chunk of metal will break off of this piece, so it is no longer capable of turning the ignition switch quite far enough to get to the crank position.
#12
Frustrating to do all of that electrical troubleshooting and it be a broken piece of stuff that I never noticed. It was stuck in with grease. Go figure.
Did you rekey your whole truck? All I need is another set of keys...lol
Did you rekey your whole truck? All I need is another set of keys...lol
#13
When I did mine, I bought a cylinder from rock auto. I took it to a locksmith to have it re-keyed. He said that it was not re-keyable, but he had 1 that was. Maybe you should check with a locksmith first...Mark
#14
I've assembled several of these. I generally removed the pins from the old cylinder and installed them in the new, so the original keys could still be used. Not sure if this stuff is even available from Dodge anymore, it may be sold as a kit in the aftermarket, with an assortment of pins and springs.
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