Ron Paull

I have a 92 Dodge/Cummins. Bout 300K miles. 200K miles on injector pump. 100K on the injectors. ALWAYS use some sort of lubricity fuel addative.
Always started on the first spin or even just a half spin. Couple months ago noted that now and then it would take two or three spins. Just now it Simply refuses to start no matter how long I crank (not long - don't want to cause any more damage) Have owned this truck since 94. It is currently my ONLY vehicle.
I live in a very remote part of Alaska and have to do all my diagnosing, parts ordering on line. If I can't fix it myself I have to load it on a barge to Kodiak or Homer = $$$$$.
Here's what I know and what I have done so far: Replaced the lift pump and fuel filter. Removed the spring and plunger from the fuel shut off valve and attempted to start - nope. Checked each injector by loosening the fittings - cranking - DO have fuel but don't seem like all that much.
Can't imagine that all our enough of the injectors would go south enough to keep the engine from even giving a hint of life.
I think I'm down to hoping its just air is getting into the lines somewhere but don't know where to look. The tank sucked air when I removed the cap as usual. There's no damage to the tank or visable bends in any of the lines.
Other than that my remaining option seems to be the injector pump and I'm nervous about having to replace that out in the open - no cover to work under.
Also I don't have a timing guage and would need to find out where to get one and hope it don't break the bank.
Please - any suggestions before I shell out bucks for an injector pump?

olddodgetrucks

diconnect the grid heaters and start it with eather,remember do not use a lot of eather.

Ron Paull

I have always been warned away from starting fluids but I'll give it a try. This is the first time anyone has warned about diconnecting the grid heaters. Makes sense.
I'll post back this afternoon to let you know how it went.
Thanks

patdaly

Ether and grid heaters equals boom.

I don't use ether if at all possible, I use spray WD40, you can actually run the engine on it ( until you run out....)

Also, post the same thing in the first gen section, a TON of knowledge down there on VE pumps.

samboats

I had the same problem on a 96 model. I replaced the fuel return line and that fixed it.

joeytechman

When I first got my truck, I mistook the ksb for the fuel shutoff solenoid. I was running a jumper to it trying to start the truck. I would get a little fuel from a cracked injector line, but not much.
If you have gutted the correct solenoid, you can try running a line from a can of fuel directly to the lift pump inlet. That would bypass any air leaks between the lift pump and tank. Crack the injector lines again, use the lever on the lift pump and prime, prime, prime.
Also, the fuel tank should NOT have a vacuum in it when you remove the cap.
you may have the wrong cap, or a plugged vent.
Keep at it, sounds like you sucked a big air bubble to me.

maybe368

Here is a really reasonable re-built unit. You don't need a timing tool to install, if it turns out to be the pump..good luck...Mark

Scotts_D250

I recently just had this problem on my 91, 200k on the pump and injectors. I checked every thing, gutted fss, checked injectors pop pressure, found that one was leaking and the others were weak. So I bought new injectors, still no fire.. Had fuel at all the lines, so I replaced the lift pump and nothing. Eventually broke down and took off the pump and I could turn it by hand.. All the springs internally had shattered and sent metal through the pump. I got a new one, put out on and it runs like a champ.

Sounds awfully similar to my problem. Hope this helps

joeytechman

I also had the broken plunger return springs in my pump. I found metal shavings in the FSS bore and stuck to the plunger. If you found any metal in there, IP may very well be your problem.
My truck ran like that... somehow. Started fine, idled fine, just had no power.
Fixed it myself for about 100 bucks in parts, and many hours of reading on this forum.

BearKiller

Were it my engine, and I needed it started, I would dis-able the grid-heaters (and leave them disabled --- they do nothing but run down batteries), open the air-intake at the turbo inlet, and mist ETHER into the air stream while someone is cranking.



WD-40 was good 25-years ago, but it ain't been any account for starting engines ever since they made it non-volatile; it don't work nearly so well as a penetrant anymore either.



ETHER used with common sense won't hurt anything about an engine.



To quote an old Blue Oyster Cult (I think it was) song "Don't fear the ether."

maybe368

Why you're nothin' but an ol' Hippie, because a country boy would think that Blue Oyster cult is some kinda' radical conspiracy......Mark

Ron Paull

Not sure if my last reply made it so here goes again:
Shot some eather into the air filter (K&N) and it started and smoothed out after a minute or so. Let it idle for a while then turned it off for about 15 minutes. Re-started just fine.
Took it for about a one hour ride. Had good power, ran smooth, will rev to 2400+ RPM no problem.
Shut it down and let it sit for a little over an hour - won't start again! Won't even try. I'm guessing it will start with eather again.

Must be the injectors are at least OK as well as the injector pump. So is this an air in the lines problem and where the heck can the air be getting in while just sitting with the engine off?

Thanks for the help so far - at least it was some releife to see it run if even for a little while.
Ron

BearKiller

It reads like the fuel is leaking off.

A number of things can cause this.

A leak in the DRAW line.

A leak in the DRAW-TUBE that is inside the tank.

Sometimes, a failing lift-pump will cause it.

It is not un-heard of for a problem in the RETURN system to cause it.


If the cause is not obvious, a band-aid fix is to install an electric pump in a bypass line that "Y"s out and back in the main fuel line.


The electric pump will charge the system and purge any air prior to cranking/starting.

Once the engine starts, the electric pump is turned OFF.

GIT-R-DONE

Any of your lines could be leaking/sucking in air. Return lines, lines from your pump to your banjo to your inj. pump. I would also check the return lines (driver side by #6 cylinder) where the junction line is. There is a "T" there you could check.

I personally would think it would be on the supply line somewhere from the tank to the injectors. Fuel filter on tight with the right gasket? Just do one step at a time and see what you find.

Jklawinsky

Def sounds like the problem is air. Just go through and recheck all of your lines. The leak could be too small to see but that would be my guess if it starts with ether and primes itself afterwards.