'89 W250 OWNERS (help me)
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
'89 W250 OWNERS (help me)
I just ripped the front D60 apart tonite. (kingpin and ujoint replacement). My question is the lock nut and the spindle nut on my truck are 2 1/2" hex nuts, is this normal. I have read threads on here and TDR, my input was it was supposed to be a 4 prong nut??? Am I just an idiot or was there years for the hex nut '89-'90? '91-'93 for the 4 prong nut? Just want to know if I have the right parts on the truck before I put it back together.. I'm going NUTS!!!
#2
Registered User
What is holding the hex nuts from backing off??
Are they locked like the ones on a rear-end, or how??
I never tried a Dana rear nut on a front spindle; but, they just might work.
Are they locked like the ones on a rear-end, or how??
I never tried a Dana rear nut on a front spindle; but, they just might work.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
It goes 2 1/2" hex nut then prong washer (you fold one ear over the flat of the hex and then there is another hex nut. Is this right? FSM even showes the special 4 prong tool. I'm lost!
#4
Registered User
I believe those nuts are 2-9/16".
It is possible that someone replaced the original nuts with rear spindle nuts.
I have never actually tried this; but, I guess that they might fit.
One thing for sure, the same wrench that fits the rear can be used on the front.
Also, it will be a whole lot easier to adjust than trying to get that silly little pin to line up with a hole in the lock-washer.
It is possible that someone replaced the original nuts with rear spindle nuts.
I have never actually tried this; but, I guess that they might fit.
One thing for sure, the same wrench that fits the rear can be used on the front.
Also, it will be a whole lot easier to adjust than trying to get that silly little pin to line up with a hole in the lock-washer.
#6
Originally Posted by DISLSMOKE
So you think I will be ok?
As long as the center of the washer still has the tab that line up with the grove on the spindle threads, and you have a nut on each side of it....Yes
and you fold the top of the washer over the nuts, of cource.
#7
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Thread Starter
Cool, thanks for the input. I will get a socket tonite to fit the nut. Some one used a chisle and hammer to loosen and tighten. Why? Still follow the torque specs from the FSM? Should I also fold the ears on the washer for both the lock nut and inner nut? or just the lock nut?
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#8
Originally Posted by DISLSMOKE
Cool, thanks for the input. I will get a socket tonite to fit the nut. Some one used a chisle and hammer to loosen and tighten. Why? Still follow the torque specs from the FSM? Should I also fold the ears on the washer for both the lock nut and inner nut? or just the lock nut?
#10
Registered User
An easy way to put those together is to tighten the bearing nut until it is tight and then back it off a quarter turn. That should get your bearing load about where you want it (shake the wheel to get for excessive play) and the wheel should spin freely. Then put in the lock plate and tighten up the jam nut TIGHT!!! The reason there are chisel marks on the nuts is 'cause that last guy didn't want to spend the $30 on the axle nut socket.
#11
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by MoparMarv
I'm the process of just about the same stuff on my 1993 W-250. Its a 4 prong nut. There are 2 of them. Looks like one sets the load and the other locks it.
See thats the thing should all d60s have the 4 prong and mine is just a . or did someone put the wrong nuts on? Replacing king pins is a pretty easy job. Tonite is putting everything back together. After I put new u-joints in the axle shafts. Thanks guys.
#12
Registered User
Prior to 91.5, the axles had "Dodge Style" hubs and lock-outs, with bolt-on selectro lock-outs. After that, they use "Chevy style" hubs, with "internal" warn lock-outs. The internal style lock-out doesn't leave enough room for a hex nut, hence the round nuts with slots. The spindles are the same, but the brakes are different. You can use the nuts you have with the locking tab washer, the new round nuts with their lock plate, or even the nuts from the rear axle with the locking pins if you want.
Good luck cleaning out the axle tube before putting the shaft back in.
Good luck cleaning out the axle tube before putting the shaft back in.
#13
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Alec
Good luck cleaning out the axle tube before putting the shaft back in.
I am planning on going to the parts store after work and try to find a round wire brush i can use to clean the inside of the axle tube out. figure use a aluminum round 1/2"dia and rig the end up to the wire wheel, other end on the drill and work the crud from the inside out. TRY. Think it will work if i get a wheel 1/4" smaller than the inside of the tube?
#14
Registered User
That is what I did -- bought a round wire brush at sears, I think it was closer than 1/4", and used two drill extensions. After brushing, I painted the inside with por-15 (made a cloth swab to get in there) more to glue everything down than anything else.
If you have a die grinder and can set up the extension to use with it, the extra speed really would help I think.
If you have a die grinder and can set up the extension to use with it, the extra speed really would help I think.