Nice.....

 

Wait, Pat are you going to build a John Wayne flavored Cummins powered Ramcharger now too?

 

LOL, Nope, I had my chance at it.............. My mistake was not having my donor truck before I got the Ramcharger. Of course, if I get a donor truck, I probably wouldn't be able to find a decent Ramcharger.

Don't ask me why, but that's just my luck with Mopars around here....

 

I haven't gotten much wrenching on my motor done that past three nights.
I did locate all the parts for a Low Pressure Lift Pump install, and brain storm how to swap out the oil pan gasket safely.
That will be next two things I attack.

 

. Keep that fire going, Oliver! Take it on as a New Years resolution. Do what I do, and brag on yourself about getting that done, that way you gotta do it, LOL!
Yeah, by all means, be safe...no injuries!

 

I spent a little time out in the shop with my daughter tonight after dinner.
For those that where concerned, she wore shoes tonight.
The more I look at the motor, the more I see stuff just bolted together quickly without gaskets and such.
It is hard to tell what was dealt with correctly and what was just bolted back together quickly just to close it up after taking a peek inside. Things like the intake manifold plate gasket, timing case, power steering pump, VE pump and lines, and the tappet cover are all suspect.
I am starting to realize I will need to check almost everything to make sure it is torqued down and has fresh gaskets.
The piston lift pump [still in the bag] that came with the Ramcharger is Cummins part #4988751.
I have a spare LP for my P-pumped '95s in the shop it has a Cummins part # of 4988747.
Both are made in China.
I will have to check that the LP that came with my RC is the low pressure piston lift pump I want, so I don't over pressurize the VE pump with fuel.
I am hoping to spend a little of tomorrow morning out in the shop tinkering on it, as my daughter is off from school for MLK day.

 

Okay with a bit of internet searching that does seem to be the right low pressure LP part # [4988751].
Looks like I need to get a spacer as well for the install as I already have the LP gaskets and hard fuel line.

 

I hate it when somebody throws things together haphazardly. I creates 10times the work for the next guy.

 

pull the spring out and post a picture, will be real easy to tell if it's a low pressure spring or not. the high pressure p pump lift pumps have a spring that looks more like a valve spring it's so heavy. regardless, i'm sure you have fuel pressure gauge on all your rigs. i had a "low pressure" pump, same part number as yours, that ran 20 psi out of the box. just replaced the spring with one from fastenal and now i run 15 psi all day long

 

j.fonder. 15 PSI sounds a little higher in pressure than I was thinking I would see with it.
I install the Geno's fuel pressure Schrader valve in the fuel filter housings of my rigs.
I then have one fuel pressure gauge on a three foot long hose.
I can screw it in and tuck it under my wiper arm to check pressure when I want to check for fuel problems.
That way I have one gauge that I can use on any of my trucks.
I don't feel it is necessary to install a permanent fuel pressure gauge on my VE and P-pumped 12V.
The one 24V I run gets a full time fuel pressure gauge with its VP-44.

I was thinking I would see what pressure the LP was running by using my gauge on it before running it on the motor.
Looks like I need to locate a spacer [Part # 3914284] I see mentioned on several LP LP installs first.
I assume that spacer goes under the LP to get the right spacing off the cam lobe.

I am off to pop the timing case cover, while my Mopar tech. gets a little more sleep.

 

If it is a true low pressure pump, you'll probably be closer to 12psi. And ya, you need the spacer, Cummins sells them or I ordered mine from Cumminspartsdirect.com when I did my piston pump install

 

I got the timing cover off today.
Boy am I glad i did that!
I remember reading and seeing pictures in the previous build tread on this RC, of the cover being opened and a cool custom billet KDP tab installed.
He was making extra KDP billet tabs to sell for $20 IIRC.
I figured that the KDP was taking care of, but I could't tell if the cover was sealed up well after.
Well the cover was just bolted on again with the old gasket. The cover would have fallen off when I took out the last bolt if my hand was not on it.
Well someone must have wanted they $20 billet KDP tab enough to open it up again and take it out with the timing case bolt after the picture session.
Okay, I have now gone for question some things, to not trusting ANYTHING on this build that was previously done.

Luckily I had a 1st gen KDP kit on the shop shelf from TST that includes a newer longer case bolt and tab I can use.
I also got all the case bolts pulled , cleaned, blue lock tight'ed and re-installed to 18 FT Lbs.
I will try to get to cleaning up the cover and re-installing with a new front crank seal on Wed.
Tomorrow is for snowboard racing!

 

Not cool.......

 

Not cool... Not cool at all.
Yeah even after a good nights sleep, I am shocked and angry.
Who posts pictures of all the great work they do, then when they sell it they pull the parts back out to feel better about themselves.
Not even leaving me the case bolt. What if I assumed it was done right only to have the cover leak like a faucet and have the case under extra stress with a missing bolt?

I am off to snowboard race.

 

Your day .....

BTW. I didn't use a tab. I just snotted up the case and made it unable to fall out. Cheaper.....