I think that could be adapted. but it would require a bit of re engineering and an aluminum mount for the pivot to be welded into the bell housing.
That said I would only do it as a last resort.

 

Yes that would be a last resort option, i will bend it back and brace it and see how that works.

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Yeah that is what I would do.
I considered all sorts of things before I found one.

 

So right now im attempting to remove the brake pedal and clutch pedal, any suggestions on removing these i did a search but couldnt find really anything about them but ive heard there a PITA. I wish someone had made a conversion manual for this haha!

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They ride on a central shaft. There should be a cap on the outside of the shaft, on the far right side, that is held in place by a small nut and bolt or screw. Think it's a weird size, like 9/32 or something? This cap needs to come off before you can slip the main shaft out towards the passenger side of the truck.

And don't forget to grab the clutch master cylinder bracket up under the dash. Should be held in place by 4 big nuts and bolts.

 

Ya know i saw that but didnt pay much attention to it! Guess i should have haha, thank you for the quick reply now i can get the ball rolling!!!

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I cant thank you all enough for all the help you have been i really appreciate it! And does anyone know what has to be done to the harness for the swap?

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Should be able to just swap the transmission harness at the connector on the firewall to the right(passenger) side of the engine.

 

Alright ill check that out and anyone know where to get the throwout bearing? The one right on the input shaft?

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On rockauto i think its the clutch release bearing but im not sure, it looks it but ive never heard them called that?

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That's a pilot bearing the throw out bearing goes on the clutch fork.Or did I read that wrong?

 

No problem...glad I can help.

The harness will work with no problems. I used the auto harness in my crewcab, when I did my 4wd conversion, and it's a NV4500 . Just tape up the auto sensors, and then cut the 3 pin wiring connector....with the big round end. The two outside wires should be the reverse lights. And the center one (Brown with a yellow tracer I believe) is your neutral ground.

You need to run that neutral ground to a switch if you want your cruise to work. I ran it to a cobbled together switch on my clutch. So I could have it only start with the clutch depressed, and also have cruise.

If the donor truck is stock then grab the neutral safety switch, and brackets, from it. Then you should be able to wire it in easily.

 

Install the M/C bracket before the pedals.

 

Well,phooey...... I guess Google isn't the end all search engine. I went back and looked at my parts book and you are correct.

Good news/bad news, looks like you are limited to a 1990 or 91 for the same exact thing, but the good news is it shows same fork 1/2 ton all the way to 1 ton gas and diesel the same.

 

I better do that before I end up doing it twice.