47rh
#17
Have to agree. The intermdiate is one of the last things to upgrade. Dont remember the exact numbers but it's well over 1000 TQ to brake an inermediate. Input is the main thing. And I'm sorry but I do not believe, along with others, that you need alto steels and red eagle clutchs. If we were dealing with a Ppump, Vp, or CR making big numbers then yeah, they're a good idea, but for what the VE is limited to they are in no way needed.
#18
Yup, Input shaft is the 1st to go usually. Some on a budget leave the output as a weak link because you dont have to pull the tranny to replace it. I dont get this kinda thinkin but to each his own. As far as the intermediate shaft goes, my 05 is pushing 700+ hp and I have done boosted 4X4 launches on it and while I have a billet input and output, my intermediate is the stocker with 100K miles on it. They are pretty strong.
#21
The billet intermediate is for strength, for those that break them, typically from racing. 4wd drive launches with extreme boost and locked to locked shifts, will typically find the weak link in the driveline.
#22
Right Fred...
That's where I'l probably end up but when you're retired you learn to watch the SS check VERY closely.
I'm hoping uncle sam feels generous at tax time and I can pick up a triple disk TC. I'm saving now - although slowly - for the billet in/out shafts and a complete VB rework.
I'd like to get all the work done this year but it'll probably be very late this year or early next.
What gets me is the ORIGINAL plans were to make the truck reliable for towing a 32' - 36' RV...About 10K max.
Then I had to get a 47RH for reliability and the lockup TC; then I got new sticks; then it was an Super40; then - then - then....
Now I see where RV makers are building the trailers lighter - by about 3K lbs.
SO - - - I'll have a truck that can tow 10K - 12K easily and end up buying a trailer that weighs ~ 8K
That's where I'l probably end up but when you're retired you learn to watch the SS check VERY closely.
I'm hoping uncle sam feels generous at tax time and I can pick up a triple disk TC. I'm saving now - although slowly - for the billet in/out shafts and a complete VB rework.
I'd like to get all the work done this year but it'll probably be very late this year or early next.
What gets me is the ORIGINAL plans were to make the truck reliable for towing a 32' - 36' RV...About 10K max.
Then I had to get a 47RH for reliability and the lockup TC; then I got new sticks; then it was an Super40; then - then - then....
Now I see where RV makers are building the trailers lighter - by about 3K lbs.
SO - - - I'll have a truck that can tow 10K - 12K easily and end up buying a trailer that weighs ~ 8K
#24
#25
if you would ever like to share the wealth
The second one I set up a full conversion package for a guy with Tcase, cooler lines, block cooler, engine adapter, flex plate. That one went to WY as a trade for a getrag swap package.
I'll be using some of that package to install a G56 soon. I did a 1K drive yesterday to pick the G56 up.
#27
I hope the price was right for that G56.
I will say with all the trading and buying I have done recently. I am getting a G56 in my truck cheaper than the parts to rebuild an auto.
#28
Well Philip I agree on your choice but I think the chain steering wheel and skull shifter **** will be a bit to much.
#29
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Posts: n/a
Unix, all intermediate shafts are drilled down the center, You just need to enlarge the feed hole in between the 2 largest journals about 15-20% and also the plug hole in the rear of the shaft. when using the v-10 version you also want to swap out for the diesel pump rotors, they have courser pitch (less teeth and larger) to pump higher volume at lower rpm. JD, I would use the re selenoid pack and just pick 3 of the 8 connectors to wire up od and lu, then you don't need a sleeve.
Last edited by txs; 02-20-2010 at 12:29 PM. Reason: fat fingered it
#30
I think the chain steering wheel and skull shifter **** will be a bit to much.