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I just bought a 47RH and transfer case from a 95 rebuilt and all. Now, what do I need to make this sucker work? As far as adapting my t-case to my new trans. I got the engine adapter, hardware, and trans and t-case. I know I'll need a starter but whats this gonna take other than new mounts. Thanks in advance, I'm picking it up tonight.

JD730

Pop the seal out of the back of the 47RH and a gasket or RTV to seal the NP205 flange. Beware some 47RH tail housings have a drain in them at the flange so any fluid that gets past the seals can get out.

Read this, its out of the sticky
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=114702

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THANK YOU SIR! That's just what I wanted. I am sending the stock converter to hughes, adding a trans go shift kit. Where can I get the billet lever? How hard would it be to put in? Is it harder than the shift kit? Thanks a bunch. WOOHOO LOCKUP yeah!!

JD730

I would skip the shift kit and get a good valve body all setup, thats why I can lock mine in any gear. The reason I run a billet lever is because my line pressures are much higher than stock. The trans has to be out in order to put a front lever in, theres a plug in the front of the case that you take out and feed the pivot pin through.

Dave Goerend can hook you right up with a billet front lever if you need/want one.

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The trans will be sitting on the flat bed in the garage. So no trouble there. I have a trans guy here that builds for some of the small time pullers in the area, can the VB be modded that's in there or is it best to core it out with a new one? Also, on the lever replacement, is there a write up on that? Thanks again.

JD730

Thats what they do, they modify stock valve bodies, no problem modifying the one thats in there, its up to you what your going to do. I've never messed with one so I can't give any advice on modifying one. I've always bought one already modified, setup and ready to go.

I would check on BC847's trans rebuild thread in the sticky on the front lever replacement. There are different ratio levers and who ever sets the valve body up usually has a preference to which lever is used.

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Man I love the internet. Very helpful, Thank You!

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I am on the look out for the updated flex plate now and have found flywheels everywhere. Is this considered the same part from the manuals to autos? Where's the cheapest place to get one? Sorry, I'm frugal. LOL

JD730

A 2nd gen flex plate is the best bang for the buck, I don't have a part number handy though.

sdstriper

You can get a SFI rated flexplate now for 100-130.00 bucks, better than a stock 2nd gen.

Ebay one my Lockup Giddy 1st Gen Friend...

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Yeah...I'm giddy to say the least. I called my tranny guy, he offered me what I payed him to do my 46RH to buy it back and give me a core to liquidate?? He just had one come in yesterday and they need it back like yesterday. I called him about the VB modding and that I hadn't put the 46 in yet. Is 1300 and a rebuildable core fair? I'm getting my money back and a core to sell so it's like I never shelled out the jingle for the rebuilt Non Lockup. I don't know. What's yalls opinions here.

I could use the dough and get my (new) tranny modded like nearly for free. I can't complain though, I only gave 6 bills for the whole deal.

RamW350 dually

I've seen those flexplates on Ebay and are they really better and stronger than a stock 2nd gen flexplate? Also, what does SFI stand for? If getting a 2nd gen flexplate is it best to go straight to Cummins to buy one new? Thanks for any advice.

Salvy