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400deg pyrometer temp on shut down

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Old 06-27-2009, 10:56 PM
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400deg pyrometer temp on shut down

I recently installed a pyrometer and when I shut down, no matter how long I wait, the temp doesn't drop below 400deg. If I just start it and let it run it will eventually top out at about 370deg. Is this normal? Is this bad? From what I have been reading on hear it should go down to 300deg? I was told when I bought it that the turbo was replaced just before I bought it, that was about 100k ago. There are no mods, to my knowledge, other than stacks and ARP studs. I am running a muffler. Thanks
Old 06-27-2009, 11:13 PM
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mine will drop to maybe 350, but any lower takes quite some time. What kind of temps do you see while driving?
Old 06-27-2009, 11:17 PM
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Probably a summertime thing....
Old 06-27-2009, 11:23 PM
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If mine is idling for a longtime EGT's will be near 200. As mentioned before it takes a bit more time to go from 350 ---> 300, then it does to get from 400 --> 350. Usually I just call it good around 325 to 350. I'm running 5W-40 Synthetic though, so maybe that's ok.

I'm running an Autometer gauge and probe.
Old 06-28-2009, 06:19 AM
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How fast is it idling?
Old 06-28-2009, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by feveree40
mine will drop to maybe 350, but any lower takes quite some time. What kind of temps do you see while driving?
With no load around 7-800, max is 1200.

Originally Posted by The_Head
If mine is idling for a longtime EGT's will be near 200. As mentioned before it takes a bit more time to go from 350 ---> 300, then it does to get from 400 --> 350. Usually I just call it good around 325 to 350. I'm running 5W-40 Synthetic though, so maybe that's

I'm running an Autometer gauge and probe.
I just started running Amsoil 15/40 and same gauge and probe.

Originally Posted by wannadiesel
How fast is it idling?
I don't have a tach, but if I were to guess, it would be between 5 & 700rpm. It should be what ever stock is, the original owner and the one I bought it from was a well drilling company out of northern VT, and it was just a fleet truck to them. No mods, just maintenance.
Old 06-28-2009, 08:52 AM
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Driving around town I have to wait wait 1-3 min. to get to 325, off the highway around 3-4 min. If I'm towing it takes forever and I don't turn my truck off above 350. A lot of it has to do how hard you've been using your truck and the heat of the day.

Mike
Old 06-28-2009, 09:00 AM
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Well, the Amsoil shouldnt make any difference, I ran the full syn 15-40 in mine, on the hottest of summer days here in the North East I think 325 was my minimum. Winter I could hit 250-275 easily.
Where is your probe installed? How is the needle movement on the gauge? It should be very fluid and responcive, if not, you may have a faulty Thermocouple.
Old 06-28-2009, 09:02 AM
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By the way if you have air you need to turn it off it will cool down sooner.

Mike
Old 06-28-2009, 10:12 AM
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Where is your timing at? The road to my house is down hill when i come home, so that serves as a good cool down for me. The fastest cooldown will come when your turbo is spinnin fast but not building boost.

The muffler may be causing enough back pressure to keep egts that hot all the time.
Old 06-28-2009, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike T.
Driving around town I have to wait wait 1-3 min. to get to 325, off the highway around 3-4 min. If I'm towing it takes forever and I don't turn my truck off above 350. A lot of it has to do how hard you've been using your truck and the heat of the day.
Mike
I always start the truck a few minutes before I use it and in that time the temp goes to 300 to 350. As soon as I start driving it goes to 500 to 800. When I hit a good sized hill the temp goes to 1000 to 1100. The only time I saw 1200 I was pulling a trailer. I just installed the pyro at the end of April so the outside temps been 50 to 75 and (RAINING). Also no AC.

Originally Posted by Cowboy_Customs
Well, the Amsoil shouldnt make any difference, I ran the full syn 15-40 in mine, on the hottest of summer days here in the North East I think 325 was my minimum. Winter I could hit 250-275 easily.
Where is your probe installed? How is the needle movement on the gauge? It should be very fluid and responcive, if not, you may have a faulty Thermocouple.
I installed the probe exactly like it shows in the "sticky" and the diagram that came with the gauge. As for the movement it is very responsive, when I get on it she jumps up and when I let off she goes back down.

Originally Posted by big stinky
Where is your timing at? The road to my house is down hill when i come home, so that serves as a good cool down for me. The fastest cooldown will come when your turbo is spinnin fast but not building boost.

The muffler may be causing enough back pressure to keep egts that hot all the time.
The timing should be stock, I have never checked it or messed with it. I thought about removing the muffler. I had rain caps on, and removed them. I noticed a slight increase in spool up and lower temps on hills. Being 32 and most of my trucks with straight exhaust to this age, and not wearing hearing protection when I should have (construction equipment, firearms, etc). My hearing is fading some and I like to try and hear the radio instead.
Old 06-29-2009, 09:57 AM
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Well, you can always try adjusting the timing. I dont think the muffin should be causing back pressure issues enough to cause it, unless were talkin a 2" inlet/outlet crap muffin. Your driving EGT's sound in the ballpark. How is the smoke out of the pipes? Does it haze pretty good, or nice and clean when its ideling, and first take off when cold? If it hazes pretty good, an Injector(s) could be the problem. At that point I would take them to a diesel shop and have them cleaned, inspected, and re-popped.
Old 06-29-2009, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Cowboy_Customs
Well, you can always try adjusting the timing. I dont think the muffin should be causing back pressure issues enough to cause it, unless were talkin a 2" inlet/outlet crap muffin. Your driving EGT's sound in the ballpark. How is the smoke out of the pipes? Does it haze pretty good, or nice and clean when its ideling, and first take off when cold? If it hazes pretty good, an Injector(s) could be the problem. At that point I would take them to a diesel shop and have them cleaned, inspected, and re-popped.
When I pull out of my driveway it lets out a CLOUD of smoke and runs real rough for about 100 yards and then clears up and runs fine. I thought it was just not warmed up enough, that's also why I start it up and let it idle before I go. She also has a little hase at an idle. YOU THINK ITS INJECTORS? That would be great! I was always told "If it ant broke don't fix it", because it starts and drives so good I couldn't bring my self to spend the money on bigger injectors yet. Looks like I have my excuse now. I read a lot on here, guys running 6x.0018 or something like that. Is this a good injector and where should I get them? I want something reliable, not for a track, but still getting the most horse power I can.

My muffler pipe size is the same size as the pipe coming off the turbo, 3" or 3.5". It is a muffler with inlet/outlet on the same side up to a split for duel stacks, all the same size pipe. The muffler is a walker, about 10" or 12"dia and about 18"to 24" long.
Old 06-29-2009, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jer12377
When I pull out of my driveway it lets out a CLOUD of smoke and runs real rough for about 100 yards and then clears up and runs fine.
This sounds like an air leak in the fuel system.

6x18 injectors are HUGE!!! DDp3's would be good for a daily driver/tow rig and they're something like 5x12's
Old 06-29-2009, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by apwatson50
This sounds like an air leak in the fuel system.

6x18 injectors are HUGE!!! DDp3's would be good for a daily driver/tow rig and they're something like 5x12's
I don't see any wet spots or leaks in my fuel lines?
Which one of these are DDp3'3 http://www.dynomitediesel.com/prod_d...irst+Gen/0.php . Or am I on the wrong page?


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