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4'' down pipe

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Old 02-06-2008 | 11:35 PM
  #31  
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From: Pen Argyl Pennsylvania
Originally Posted by CaptainChrysler
I used four 4" 45* elbows. Get the shortest ones you can. I have pics of the pipe I made, will post tomorrow.
That would be cool thanks
Old 02-07-2008 | 07:50 AM
  #32  
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From: Mohrsville Pennsylvania
From the turbo flange to the inside radius of the first turn is about 3" I cut off the leg of the on angel to mkae it fit better.
Old 02-07-2008 | 11:49 AM
  #33  
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From: Northern KS
no where local I can buy bent 4" or have it bent even.

Pieces on summitracing when I looked were wanting $35-40 per elbow. Pretty pricey stuff to mess with.
Old 02-07-2008 | 12:02 PM
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From: Pen Argyl Pennsylvania
Originally Posted by andyr354
no where local I can buy bent 4" or have it bent even.

Pieces on summitracing when I looked were wanting $35-40 per elbow. Pretty pricey stuff to mess with.
Check with the local big rig shops, sometimes they have a selection of exhaust parts and you might be able to get what you need there.
Old 02-07-2008 | 12:55 PM
  #35  
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"local" around here means 150 miles drive to anything more than basic auto parts.
Old 02-07-2008 | 02:43 PM
  #36  
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I used a wide radius 90 for around the T-case. Chopped it in half in the middle of the bend and spun the one side around, trimmed and welded. Came out nice. I had to use 2 peices to get around the case though, it got caught in the frame if I tried to do it in one big peice.

Just thought I would mention cause 1 90 is cheaper than 2 45s and your probably cutting/welding anyways.
Old 02-07-2008 | 04:28 PM
  #37  
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From: victoria bc canada
Pics I like the idea
Old 02-07-2008 | 06:06 PM
  #38  
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From: Ida Grove, IA
Here are the pics, Keep in mind it was late and I was giddy to make some noise!
Pipe around t-case:


After some high temp paint.



Going past the t-case:



You can see that my offset is too much. I had to remove the x-member brace for now. I want to rework this part and get the brace back in. Get the shortest 45*'s you can. Mine rattles on the frame, very annoying.
Right after that pipe, it goes to 5"





I know, I know body work is coming.....
Some pics of the dp and driveshaft clearance. I am no photographer.



Old 02-07-2008 | 07:02 PM
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I like it your just a little off not that bad send pics when you got it setup
Old 02-08-2008 | 10:56 AM
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From: Brighton CO and Cheyenne WY
Rip Rooks system is 4" and will clear the t-case. I just finished notching and rewelding my crossmember brace so I can sneak 5" through there.
You guys running the 2nd gen 4" down pipe; it is still 3" right where it bolts up to the elbow correct?
If I were running a 3" outlet turbo, this is definately the way I would do it.
Old 02-08-2008 | 11:15 AM
  #41  
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From: Ida Grove, IA
Yes, it is 3" I believe at the flange. It probably would be easier to use a pre-made pipe for around the t-cae. I just didn't know how it would line up with the dp. I did it this way so that some day I can just use a 2nd gen hx-40 style dp.
Old 02-08-2008 | 03:20 PM
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From: Lancaster Pa.
Curt Looks Great, (kinda like looking under mine but w/o all the oil... T fer case pipe is EXACTLY what i was describing to ya NICE job.
Scott
Old 02-08-2008 | 05:27 PM
  #43  
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From: St. Louis
Hello,

Looks great! Nice welds.

Now wash that truck.

Damon
Old 02-08-2008 | 10:35 PM
  #44  
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From: Waukon, IA
nice job, i think it looks really good, by the what kinda rims are those?
Old 02-08-2008 | 10:50 PM
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From: Columbia, TN
Do you live any where near Tennessee?


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