Well it finally got here today from Scheid, the 354 - 4200 rpm spring that is.

I was under the impression that it was the same exact length as the stock and 3200 spring, but its not. Its actually 3/16" longer, so before I install it I am going to shorten the spring to stock length without removing any coils by bending the existing loops tighter.

Install and results will happen this weekend.

Almost forgot, I still need to hook up that dang auto meter tach pickup, last time I tried I couldnt get it to pick up the signal from the alternator, any suggestions?

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Making the loops tighter will make the spring longer not shorter. If you wanted to make it shorter you have have to make the loops larger to make the spring thicker and shorter.

 

i think he is talking about bending in the end loops towards the coils.

 

my bad sorry guys

 

what he said

 

Rockjeep73,
I'm assuming you're running the Autometer 2888 tach. Its sensor probe is somewhat particular about placement. Strap it along the middle of the alternator at the 8 o'clock position (looking at the alternator). That's the sweet spot for that tach pickup. Hope this helps with your signal.

 

Thanks alot Cody!!! aka NeedMoPower LOL... So much for stock length hehe.. Once shortened it should fuel as much as the little VE can handle.

For our readers wanting to try a 3800 or this 4200 spring, save the time and $15 and just modify your stock spring. Take a few loops off it and bend a new end. This will make it shorter so you'll have to reindex the throttle lever as you're idle will be higher at the 2nd index mark. Thats fine, just move it to the 1st index mark and you'll have more rpms with reasonable idle.

 

You dont need to shorten that spring and it will still fuel as much as the VE wants. I never said it was the same length as I never measured it. I put it in and never looked back.

 

So youre saying that it does not need to be shortened, just have to re-index the throttle shaft and it will still fuel to over 4k?

 

Take the time and shorten it. BTDT, it makes a huge difference. Here's some of it:

3800rpm spring in and running

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Bob was right about the longer spring. Guys don't bother trying to install this 374 spring. Being longer you have to reindex the throttle lever to get it to idle. I tried different combo's of index marks, fuel screw in, out, had my throttle rod all the way out, couldn't get it any longer, and it either idled at 1000rpm or too low to run. Ended up leaving it at the 1000rpm idle setting which was the 3rd index mark, then backed out the fuel screw to get it to idle at 775. At this 3rd mark, you bottom out inside the pump top, the linkage goes full forward, while you still have a good amount of throttle travel left. I guess I should say it still will give you 3500+rpm at this point.

Boost is down .. could be from the fuel screw backed out. Pyro climbs as fast as the tach , didn't before. I don't like this setup.

I plan on experiementing with this STIFF 374 spring, cutting it down to stock 388 length and bending a new end. Once back to the correct length, if should scream and fuel beyond 3200.

Basically you'll gain more with a stock length spring than longer than stock. With a longer spring, you're limiting your potential throttle travel. Yeah it might still get you to 3200+rpm, but you've lost travel. I'd install a shorter spring before a long one if I were to try it again.

Maybe one of our pump terminology guys can chime in here and explain what the internals are doing with a longer spring. The thing the spring attaches to (not the throttle shaft linkage - the other end) is held loose with a long spring at #2 index mark. Equals no idle. Two choices, mechanically increase your idle with low idle screw. Now you've got ok idle. But you've lost 1/2 travel, cause you're idling at 800 with the go pedal half way down. Ok choice 2, raise idle by way of fuel screw, thread it alllll the way in, still not high enough idle and on the verge of runaway. Still tuneable, more fuel screw, more low idle screw, meet in between etc.

Long spring at number 3 index mark.= Idle near 2k. Ok back off the fuel screw... way out.. now idle is decent but no power, no fuel... I could keep going on, there are a ton of different combinations you can try. BTDT. Whoever said there's only 4 things to adjust/experiment with on a VE pump, doesn't know the half. You can tune/test a ton of setups/combinations.

Follow?

 

I am gonna shorten it to stock length, I will let ya know how it turns out.

 

Ok Cody, I reread an old post, you said you used a spring the same length as the 3800 spring. I just read same length, assumed you meant stock length oh well.

Rockjeep, I'll add, that I ran with it at #2 index, then got it to idle with a combination of fuel screw right at runaway, and low idle screw out a good bit. Ran good, better than the 3200 spring. NOT as good as a trimmed to stock length STIFF spring such as your 354 or my 374 will/does. I wish I had dyno runs for each tune/test. I just ran the truck for a week to and from work at each setting. I have the seat of pants, boost gauge, pyro and tach dynometers LOL. The next combo for me to try will be a shortened stock spring and throttle indexed at #1 for idle to be right, then you'll have a world of rpm range. Well over 4k. I am happy with the combo I'm running now. After a dyno this spring/summer, maybe I'll try something else.

 

My new pump has the 4200 spring, but I won’t really know how it will run until next week. It actually flows less fuel than my old 12mm pump I had on. 18cc to be exact. Oh well it doesn’t really matter to me right now. I will figure something out. Don’t worry its just temporary.

Stomp