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3/4 ton shackle flip?

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Old 05-29-2005 | 07:20 AM
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From: port crane, NY
Question 3/4 ton shackle flip?

Anybody ever done this? I've seen the instructions for 1/2 ton on www.ramchargercentral.com and it seems like a good idea--eliminate lift blocks for less axle wrap while keeping the stock springs 'cause I'm poor! I was actually thinking of doing the flip and keeping my older style 3'' blocks. That would prolly net enough lift to cure my sag. Any other early 4x4 owners have a solution for the sag? I hear the later 1st gens had 6'' blocks, but that most floks want to hang on to them...is there an aftermarket block? I'm ok with a little high in the rear, or just plain level, but this sag is killing me! Also, I just can't do stacks with the saggy butt!
Your considerations are appreciated, as always!
greg
Old 05-31-2005 | 10:29 PM
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i went to site couldnt see pics for a reason ill go back another day and let you no im interested in that also
Old 08-07-2005 | 08:28 PM
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Well, I got to looking at my half ton parts truck over the weekend and the shackles appear to be the exact same. Kinda scary considering the difference in intended use, but there it is. The good news is that with some new hardware, it should work. The bad/good news is that there appears to be no room for a tailpipe with this setup. Bad if you've got one, good if you're me and just lost the tailpipe due to a rusty straight pipe and am now on the way to stacks! At any rate, thought I'd drag up an old post rather than start a new one on the same subject. Hope to have some pics later this week.

g
Old 08-08-2005 | 07:04 PM
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KEEP ME INFORMED ON THOSE PICS WOULD LIKE TO SEE THAT IM INTERESTED
Old 08-09-2005 | 03:50 PM
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I did this for a cheap lift on my old 1/2ton 4X4 for a cheap lift. Worked nice and rode well but I had lots of axle wrap. Not sure I would want to do it with a bombed CTD. I left the blocks in on mine. Also had to use a shim to point the pinion back down to maintain driveline angles.
Old 08-09-2005 | 07:37 PM
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Thanks for the info, cLAYH. I've put some more thought into it and now I'm really on the fence. The flip (for those who don't know) changes the factory shackle, which is a tension shackle, to a compression shackle. So, in stock form, the leaf is actually pulling on the shackle itself, trying to stretch it, hench the name 'tension' shackle. When the setup is flipped, one winds up with a compression shackle---the spring is trying to push the shackle together. A good example here is just about any lifted Jeep with those shiny new lift shackles on the the front and back---that's the tension style. Now I got to thinking, if I had a steel bar, say 1/8'' thick by 1'' wide by 1 foot long, how would it be easier to bend/break or otherwise change the shape of it---1)pull it apart (tension shackle) or 2)push it together (compression shackle). It seems that the tension setup has, at least at that point in the system, more load bearing capacity. As I cast a glance at that 10,000 pound 5er sitting out front, I get to thinking maybe not so much on the whole flip idea.... soooo, anybody got a set of those 6'' blocks laying around?

g
Old 08-10-2005 | 09:04 AM
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have you looked at the shackles though? there not very long I think that you would have to bottom the axle out on the frame with a lot of force before you would deform the shackles. And it wouldn't take much to take some flat steel stock and beef them up a lot. I would rather do the shackle flip than put 6in blocks in. Seems like you'd get a lot more axle wrap with the blocks than flipping the shackles
Old 08-10-2005 | 03:26 PM
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Good point, ap. I'm so sick of the sag that I don't want to do just anything to make it go away. Seeing that I'm recently in the market for a new job (whole other post ) I'll probably go with the flip just the same.
g
Old 12-04-2007 | 10:54 PM
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Seems like you'd get a lot more axle wrap with the blocks than flipping the shackles
I'd agree. I've got 5" blocks now and I don't see how it can get much worse.
I'm thinking about the shackle flip to get rid of the blocks. Anyone actually done this on a first gen cummins?
Old 12-04-2007 | 11:34 PM
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Some traction bars or radius arms will eliminate the axle wrap really well. Eliminating the blocks may not give you everything you want. Even without blocks axle wrap is a chronic problem for most leafspring cars and trucks.
Old 12-05-2007 | 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by cLAYH
I did this for a cheap lift on my old 1/2ton 4X4 for a cheap lift. Worked nice and rode well but I had lots of axle wrap. Not sure I would want to do it with a bombed CTD. I left the blocks in on mine. Also had to use a shim to point the pinion back down to maintain driveline angles.
When I made new spring hangers I though about dropping the rear hanger an inch lower to raise the back up and I thought about it, wait a minute, that would mess up my pinion angle, so I didn't do it.


Originally Posted by Diesel Junkie
Some traction bars or radius arms will eliminate the axle wrap really well. Eliminating the blocks may not give you everything you want. Even without blocks axle wrap is a chronic problem for most leafspring cars and trucks.
I know my truck has axle wrap, but it doesn't do the dreaded hopping like alot of trucks do.

Stupid strong springs hangers, 1/2" plate on the frame, 5/8" coming out, 5/8" up and 1/4" gussets. Front one are made using similar construction.
Old 12-05-2007 | 06:03 AM
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Man, this thread is ooooolllldddd Good to know folks are using the search function
Old 12-05-2007 | 08:56 AM
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I would say... even without blocks axle wrap is a chronic problem for most leafspring cars and trucks that do not have strong enough springs or traction aids like various type bar setups to support the level of torque they make.

Just trying to clarify.
Old 12-05-2007 | 10:27 AM
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I'm actually surprised...since I switched to the 10-leaf spinebender packs, I have almost the exact same wrap as when I had the wore out 7-leaf packs. When I added the late 1st gen tall blocks is when the problem got worse. I'm thinking some traction bars will be in order soon.


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