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2wd front end rebuild ???'s

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Old 10-14-2009 | 01:16 AM
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SOOT4BRAINS's Avatar
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From: Mesa,AZ
2wd front end rebuild ???'s

My driver side lower ball joint has at least 1/8 of play in it. All 4 of the upper arm bushings are squished out. I plan to rebuild the entire front end all at once. I know as soon as I replace bad parts, the ones I didn't do will go bad and I have to do it all the work again. I priced most of the parts out, and its more than I thought it would be at around $900, not including new springs. Also looking at polygraphite bushings. Anybody use them on these trucks? I would guess the ride would be a little rougher, but they would last longer I think. I like a nice ride but would sacrifice a little ride for longevity of parts. Heard lots of guys with cars say they are too stiff and go back to rubber. Also looking at new springs. I think the number I want is moog 7226S is this right? Also need info about the offset bushing bolts. Read there was a set to give more adjustment? Can't find any more info on that using the search function. Anybody know a good place to get this stuff? My local guy that I usually use has prices that are slightly lower than jegs for the same moog parts. Thanks in advance.

Aaron
Old 10-14-2009 | 06:35 PM
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I would use the rubber bushings.

Are you planning to lift the front end? Unless you are lifting it, the stock type camber bolts are all you need.

You have the right part number for the springs.

Have you checked Rock Auto for pricing?
Old 10-14-2009 | 07:23 PM
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I think I"ll be doing the same when I get back in Feb. Rock Auto seems to have SOOOO many balljoints ranging from $17-$56. Obviously you get what you pay for, but is there a suggestion in brands? I usually just get things from Napa, will rockauto really save me that much to make up for being able to run in with questions, etc?
Old 10-14-2009 | 08:15 PM
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The Moog ball joints are the only ones that last. Cheap out anywhere else in the front end but the ball joints. Cheap tie rods, idler arm, center link, bushings, etc. are fine and will last pretty well - but cheap out on the ball joints and you will be replacing them in 20k or so.
Old 10-14-2009 | 10:18 PM
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X2

If you cheap out on the ball joints you better save money for tires and new ball joints.
Old 10-15-2009 | 02:35 AM
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Pod Boy (on hiatus)
 
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From: Mesa,AZ
Originally Posted by wannadiesel
I would use the rubber bushings.

Are you planning to lift the front end? Unless you are lifting it, the stock type camber bolts are all you need.

You have the right part number for the springs.

Have you checked Rock Auto for pricing?
I was looking at springs to bring the ride height up a bit. About where stock is supposed to be maybe a little higher. I just want it to be level with the back. Its sits 2-3 inches low in the front now. I know they sat a little low from the factory, would the 7226s springs be considered a lift and require the camber bolts? I definitely don't want to cheap out on it, I hate doing stuff twice. The moog parts I put on my 73 challenger makes the car drive like it is on rails. Good quality stuff, I'm just having a hard time dropping that kind of coin on stuff that doesnt make it go faster. I will check out rock auto. Thanks!

Pod boy
Old 10-15-2009 | 08:39 AM
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I would also see if you can find the rubber isolaters that go in the upper "A" arm. The original isolaters don't last forever and new ones providea little more front end lift. I used poly bushings on my old '79 Dodge van and except for the squeek the worked quite well. They had not come out with the poly-graphite bushings yet. I would think they would be quieter.

Bob
Old 10-15-2009 | 02:53 PM
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I used Just Suspension to source my front end kit. They were competitive on price and quick to ship.
I called them to order another lower ball joint when I damaged mine on installation. They sent a replacement at no charge.
I also ordered the rear sway bar kit. It's a wonderful addition. I would do that again in a heartbeat!

I also wanted to level my truck. A call to www.eatonsprings.com got me exactly what I wanted at a good price.

Moog parts have been dropping in quality. They seem to be falling into the all-too-common corporate ***** mindset and are outsourcing some of their stuff to China. You can see it in their products. It's a real shame because they've been the go-to source for so many years.
Old 10-15-2009 | 03:45 PM
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You won't need the special bolts for the 7226S's. They will bring it back to factory ride height which has a little rake - but if your rear springs are tired it will be pretty level.

I'm afraid to mess with mine because I like the stance. The front springs are tired, and the rear springs are shot - but I love the stance, it is low and level.
Old 10-16-2009 | 03:20 AM
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From: Mesa,AZ
I thought about just lowering the back to match the front. Make it look mean with just a little rake. But the front keeps hitting the stops on bumps. Wish some one would make drop spindles for these trucks. Then I could run 7226 springs and keep my lowered front and just drop the back. Take a few leafs out and put bags on it to keep it soft and just bump the pressure up when I tow with it. I think that would make it ride nice. Also plan on a 2 link to solve my axle wrap issue. Thanks for the link feets. I will check them out. I really like the moog stuff, its sad if they are getting chinese parts. For now I think I'm going to do springs, spring isolators, upper/ lower ball joints and upper/ lower bushings. I'll do the steering stuff and sway bar bushings later, they seem in ok shape. I can't afford all of it at once, and I keep having nightmares about that lower ball joint coming apart at 65 mph on the freeway.
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