2wd to 4x4 club cab '92/'93 frame off build
#121
Registered User
#122
Registered User
Yes it was a cool find. I have very few trucks that have two keys.
I dislike stinking up the shop with paint fumes, but I really wanted to keep moving forward on this project this winter.
So, I dropped the fuel tank, pulled the taillight /fuel tank wire harness, cleaned up the frame quickly with a wire brush and then soaked it in Evapo-Rust for a few hours. Then when it warmed up to 35*F yesterday I pushed it out into the driveway and pressure washed it down. Last night it dried off in the warm shop. Today I brushed on some Rustoleum primer on the back half of the frame. I really focused on cleaning up and painting the area that is trapped behind the fuel tank as that is where I see the most damage to the frame from rust on the majority of trucks I work on.
I hope to get some satin black paint on the frame tomorrow. This will make it so I can "permanently" remount the tank, install the wiring and the bed.
I dislike stinking up the shop with paint fumes, but I really wanted to keep moving forward on this project this winter.
So, I dropped the fuel tank, pulled the taillight /fuel tank wire harness, cleaned up the frame quickly with a wire brush and then soaked it in Evapo-Rust for a few hours. Then when it warmed up to 35*F yesterday I pushed it out into the driveway and pressure washed it down. Last night it dried off in the warm shop. Today I brushed on some Rustoleum primer on the back half of the frame. I really focused on cleaning up and painting the area that is trapped behind the fuel tank as that is where I see the most damage to the frame from rust on the majority of trucks I work on.
I hope to get some satin black paint on the frame tomorrow. This will make it so I can "permanently" remount the tank, install the wiring and the bed.
#123
Registered User
Thread Starter
I really like the Evapo-rust for cleaning up old bolts and small parts as I can just drop them in a little jug of the stuff over night and they are like brand new the next day.
Cleaning up the frame was harder. I used a little spray bottle that I filled with the stuff and sprayed it on the rusty bits of the frame. I kept spraying it on every 15 minutes or so, to keep the frame moist all the time. It cleared up the surface rust on the frame behind the tank pretty well and brought out a lot of clean shiny metal.
I keep spraying it down for about 3 hours and I was pretty happy with the end result.
After pressure washing it all off and letting it dry, it was ready for primer and paint the next day.
As far as why I prefer brushing on paint, over rattle cans for this job...There are several reasons.
1: The big reason is a LOT neater in the shop. I don't have over spray landing all over the place [My shop is FULL of trucks I don't want paint over spray on.] This also saves me lots of time taping off stuff, followed by cleaning it up later.
2: It is a lot cheaper and less wasteful. I don't paint often enough, so whenever I use a spray paint can, I never finish it. After a few uses, it never works well and I often end up throwing away a half full can that won't spray anymore. The quart jars seems to stay good in the can for years.
3: There is less paint spray in the air to inhale [or that you end up wearing] when using a brush.
4: I also find I get a nice thick coat. I can also really get into weird spots that might be hard with a spray can and end up with less runs on weird shaped items
The down side of having brush stroke marks left, or the occasional brush hair, in the paint is a non issue for me. If someone wants to critique my painting technique on the frame, I will just ask them to please show me the classic truck THEY fixed up....
As far as pictures I took a couple...I will send you a few Dan. If you want to post them for the enjoyment of the DTR crew, I am sure it will be appreciated.
Otherwise they can be seen in the photo album we will leave on the core support in Carlisle during the Mopar show.
Cleaning up the frame was harder. I used a little spray bottle that I filled with the stuff and sprayed it on the rusty bits of the frame. I kept spraying it on every 15 minutes or so, to keep the frame moist all the time. It cleared up the surface rust on the frame behind the tank pretty well and brought out a lot of clean shiny metal.
I keep spraying it down for about 3 hours and I was pretty happy with the end result.
After pressure washing it all off and letting it dry, it was ready for primer and paint the next day.
As far as why I prefer brushing on paint, over rattle cans for this job...There are several reasons.
1: The big reason is a LOT neater in the shop. I don't have over spray landing all over the place [My shop is FULL of trucks I don't want paint over spray on.] This also saves me lots of time taping off stuff, followed by cleaning it up later.
2: It is a lot cheaper and less wasteful. I don't paint often enough, so whenever I use a spray paint can, I never finish it. After a few uses, it never works well and I often end up throwing away a half full can that won't spray anymore. The quart jars seems to stay good in the can for years.
3: There is less paint spray in the air to inhale [or that you end up wearing] when using a brush.
4: I also find I get a nice thick coat. I can also really get into weird spots that might be hard with a spray can and end up with less runs on weird shaped items
The down side of having brush stroke marks left, or the occasional brush hair, in the paint is a non issue for me. If someone wants to critique my painting technique on the frame, I will just ask them to please show me the classic truck THEY fixed up....
As far as pictures I took a couple...I will send you a few Dan. If you want to post them for the enjoyment of the DTR crew, I am sure it will be appreciated.
Otherwise they can be seen in the photo album we will leave on the core support in Carlisle during the Mopar show.
#124
Registered User
Thread Starter
I dug through my collection of fuel tank straps and found a really nice strap, as one of the ones on the truck was starting to get a pin hole or two.
After a quick wire wheel session and some brake clean [ I used the fancy spray can KRB ] to get them grease free....They got a quick lick of black paint.
I skipped the primer step as I figured a little paint should be plenty. If I need to swap them out again in 15/ 20 years, so be it.
After a quick wire wheel session and some brake clean [ I used the fancy spray can KRB ] to get them grease free....They got a quick lick of black paint.
I skipped the primer step as I figured a little paint should be plenty. If I need to swap them out again in 15/ 20 years, so be it.
#125
Registered User
Ha ha, glad to hear that's possible.
You've got me re-evaluating my painting methodology. I have a cabinet shelf full of partially used rattle cans, most don't work but I think, well the nozzle is just plugged, I'll clean that out and... Perhaps I should just kick the habit too and invest in some cheap brushes. Partially used spray cans are a big waste of money and an environmentally unsound practice.
I have a friend that buys one can at a time. He sprays everything that same color til it runs out and buys the next can based on the color he needs then. He has some interesting looking stuff...
You've got me re-evaluating my painting methodology. I have a cabinet shelf full of partially used rattle cans, most don't work but I think, well the nozzle is just plugged, I'll clean that out and... Perhaps I should just kick the habit too and invest in some cheap brushes. Partially used spray cans are a big waste of money and an environmentally unsound practice.
I have a friend that buys one can at a time. He sprays everything that same color til it runs out and buys the next can based on the color he needs then. He has some interesting looking stuff...
#126
Registered User
Thread Starter
KRB, I laughed out loud picturing your friends multi colored painted stuff.
I use the disposable cheap brushes, sometimes I will save them in a Zip lock bag to re-use if I plan on more painting very soon.
Other times, if I am just dabbing on a little primer / paint, say when I cut out manual shifter, or 4x4 shifter holes in transmission tunnels, I will literally just pour out a tablespoon of paint in a cup and apply the paint with a Q-tip. This way the rust doesn't have a place to get into the metal around the hole[s] I just cut out.
If painting a bigger flatter area, say fenders, hoods, doors or other things of that nature spray paint cans are the way to go.
I use the disposable cheap brushes, sometimes I will save them in a Zip lock bag to re-use if I plan on more painting very soon.
Other times, if I am just dabbing on a little primer / paint, say when I cut out manual shifter, or 4x4 shifter holes in transmission tunnels, I will literally just pour out a tablespoon of paint in a cup and apply the paint with a Q-tip. This way the rust doesn't have a place to get into the metal around the hole[s] I just cut out.
If painting a bigger flatter area, say fenders, hoods, doors or other things of that nature spray paint cans are the way to go.
#128
Registered User
I seen something the other day saying, if you turn the rattle can upside down and give it a little spray before putting it up, that the nozzle want get clogged with dry paint. I need to try it out see if that actually works. Of course I forgot to try with the Action clear the day, was driving later thinking dang, I bet I just ruined the rest of that can!
#129
Registered User
I've read that too, and do it. But then they sit for months so maybe that is only short term? Guess I could pop the button off each time I'm done and store in paint thinner or something.
#130
Registered User
I turn my cans upside down to clear the nozzle ands they can usually sit for months and be fine. Although I bought a can of primer the other day and brushed it on a transfer case that I cleaned up for another truck. I'm converted. Coverage was way better, no overspray and a fraction of the cost. On the cast you would have to look real close to see that it was brushed on. I cleaned the brush with a little acetone, good for the next job. Thanks Oliver.
#131
Registered User
Another case of succumbing to the newest better easier way to do things when the good old fashioned way was just fine. Ironic on this forum huh? I'll thin my herd of aerosol paint and just use when spray is the only way.
#132
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have to smile at the posts about using the old paint brush.
I find it to be a pretty easy, cheap and GOOD way to get things like my frame done. I have about $30 in cheap brushes, primer and paint to do my whole truck frame including all the cross members, and all the new cross over steering parts I installed last winter.
I find it to be a pretty easy, cheap and GOOD way to get things like my frame done. I have about $30 in cheap brushes, primer and paint to do my whole truck frame including all the cross members, and all the new cross over steering parts I installed last winter.
#134
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks man.
I have not cut the front fenders yet. I have been looking at the tape line for months now..making sure I can deal with cutting up some nice fenders.
I am still planning on doing it, very similarly to yours. With the axle moved forward one inch, I will need to make room on that lower leading edge. That looks like the cleanest way to do it.
I have not cut the front fenders yet. I have been looking at the tape line for months now..making sure I can deal with cutting up some nice fenders.
I am still planning on doing it, very similarly to yours. With the axle moved forward one inch, I will need to make room on that lower leading edge. That looks like the cleanest way to do it.
#135
Totally understood
I pushed mine fwd 1.5” to keep
it as low as possible with a 37. As you’d mentioned earlier, this cut allows inner fenders to be left alone so that was a big one for me.
I pushed mine fwd 1.5” to keep
it as low as possible with a 37. As you’d mentioned earlier, this cut allows inner fenders to be left alone so that was a big one for me.