2wd to 4x4 club cab '92/'93 frame off build
#106
Registered User
AC is something I badly want back in my truck- please keep that stuff ready to sell to me LOL- Hawaii can get smokin hot on da road!
Yeah I know the A/C will not be working anymore, but I figure with two working systems I should be able to piece together a good working, leak free system.
I am not much of an A/C expert as I usually don't need it on my trucks. Will I have to change anything in the system, or can I still get the proper stuff to fill the system up with again? That is a ways off so I have not really done much research on that yet.
I got a little time to work on it today. I drilled out the end of the hair line crack on the frame around the front bolt for the steering box mount. I also filed a groove in the rest of the crack and got it all prepped for welding up. I am at a point where I would like a warmish day to do a little welding and some painting to the frame. I like to open up the shop door and air it out for stuff like that.
Since it is 25 and dumping snow right now, tonight was not it.
Still weighting the options for improving the steering box mount set up. I like the look of the Far From Stock steering box braces. They can be bolted and / or welded in.
I am not much of an A/C expert as I usually don't need it on my trucks. Will I have to change anything in the system, or can I still get the proper stuff to fill the system up with again? That is a ways off so I have not really done much research on that yet.
I got a little time to work on it today. I drilled out the end of the hair line crack on the frame around the front bolt for the steering box mount. I also filed a groove in the rest of the crack and got it all prepped for welding up. I am at a point where I would like a warmish day to do a little welding and some painting to the frame. I like to open up the shop door and air it out for stuff like that.
Since it is 25 and dumping snow right now, tonight was not it.
Still weighting the options for improving the steering box mount set up. I like the look of the Far From Stock steering box braces. They can be bolted and / or welded in.
#107
Registered User
FWIW, I wouldn't chop the front fenders like that. You can cut the sheetmetal for clearance leaving the lip intact which you move forward and weld so there's not a sharp sheetmetal edge, if that makes any sense! Just my opinion.
Where's the removable engine crossmember? I want one so I can drop the pan to clean up the rust and repaint.
Where's the removable engine crossmember? I want one so I can drop the pan to clean up the rust and repaint.
#108
Registered User
Thread Starter
That is how I opened up my lifted '85 crew cab front fenders. I cut a thin "pie slice" shape of metal out, then welded the inner lip back on to make a smooth edge.
If I cut those fenders out flat, I will likely weld a thin strip of metal in rather than leave a sharp edge of metal.
Mknittle made a custom removable crossmember for the engine on his build. That is the only one I have see that I can remember. Otherwise pulling the oil pan is a tough job, without pulling the motor [at least partially].
If I cut those fenders out flat, I will likely weld a thin strip of metal in rather than leave a sharp edge of metal.
Mknittle made a custom removable crossmember for the engine on his build. That is the only one I have see that I can remember. Otherwise pulling the oil pan is a tough job, without pulling the motor [at least partially].
#109
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Thread Starter
#110
Registered User
Thread Starter
Things have been way to busy for the project while the short summer in VT was in full force.
I am hoping to get the project outside after dropping the [almost empty] fuel tank in about two weeks. The back of the frame from the cab back needs to be cleaned up and primed / painted still. That was the biggest goal to get done while it was warm out. That way when things slow down and it is cold outside, we can get back to putting this one back together, better than new.
I am hoping to get the project outside after dropping the [almost empty] fuel tank in about two weeks. The back of the frame from the cab back needs to be cleaned up and primed / painted still. That was the biggest goal to get done while it was warm out. That way when things slow down and it is cold outside, we can get back to putting this one back together, better than new.
The following 2 users liked this post by oliver foster:
nonrev (08-21-2020),
thrashingcows (08-22-2020)
#111
Registered User
I know what you mean Oliver...summers has been really cold and wet this year and it's been tough to try and get all the summer stuff done, we have been close to frost a couple nights recently...won't be much longer before it's down around freezing at night.
#112
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well I had a moment to think about my winter project[s] last night after dinner. I looked over all the work we got done last winter and took note of where I left off.
Man that crossover steering and FSS steering box brace is pretty cool looking.
I never got to painting the back 1/2 of the frame while the weather was nice and warm outside.
Hoping to have things slow down here by Christmas and get back on this project. I like to picture us driving around in this truck next summer.
Man that crossover steering and FSS steering box brace is pretty cool looking.
I never got to painting the back 1/2 of the frame while the weather was nice and warm outside.
Hoping to have things slow down here by Christmas and get back on this project. I like to picture us driving around in this truck next summer.
#113
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Thread Starter
I got the old 2wd donor truck dug out of the back of the shop today so I can pull the clean bed, tail light / fuel tank wire harness and a few other choice pieces before kicking the rest of the donor leftover's outside for the winter.
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thrashingcows (11-28-2020)
#114
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Thread Starter
I finally got the 2wd donor frame on my shop lift to pull the bed.
While pulling the spare tire, that seems like the OEM original, I found a little black box wired and magnetically stuck to the inner frame rail.
Inside I found a still useable key. I think I have two ignition keys to my project now.
Last night I also started to pull the wire harness to the fuel tank and rear tail lights. I was happy to find all the hacked trailer wiring going on back there did not tap into that harness, but is spliced into the individual tail light harnesses themselves. Which is great as the rear harness on my 4x4 frame is ripped to pieces.
While pulling the spare tire, that seems like the OEM original, I found a little black box wired and magnetically stuck to the inner frame rail.
Inside I found a still useable key. I think I have two ignition keys to my project now.
Last night I also started to pull the wire harness to the fuel tank and rear tail lights. I was happy to find all the hacked trailer wiring going on back there did not tap into that harness, but is spliced into the individual tail light harnesses themselves. Which is great as the rear harness on my 4x4 frame is ripped to pieces.
#115
Registered User
What was the paint you used on the frame BTW? just regular primer and spray finish or something special?
#116
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Thread Starter
With a bit of focused effort this winter, I hope to be driving it next summer.
The 4x4 frame and cross members just got lightly cleaned up with a wire wheel followed by a good soap and nylon brush scrubbing, as it was mostly rust free. Then I used Rustoleum "Rusty Metal" primer followed days later with their satin black paint. Both where painted on with a small brush.
The 4x4 frame and cross members just got lightly cleaned up with a wire wheel followed by a good soap and nylon brush scrubbing, as it was mostly rust free. Then I used Rustoleum "Rusty Metal" primer followed days later with their satin black paint. Both where painted on with a small brush.
#118
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yes it was a cool find. I have very few trucks that have two keys.
I dislike stinking up the shop with paint fumes, but I really wanted to keep moving forward on this project this winter.
So, I dropped the fuel tank, pulled the taillight /fuel tank wire harness, cleaned up the frame quickly with a wire brush and then soaked it in Evapo-Rust for a few hours. Then when it warmed up to 35*F yesterday I pushed it out into the driveway and pressure washed it down. Last night it dried off in the warm shop. Today I brushed on some Rustoleum primer on the back half of the frame. I really focused on cleaning up and painting the area that is trapped behind the fuel tank as that is where I see the most damage to the frame from rust on the majority of trucks I work on.
I hope to get some satin black paint on the frame tomorrow. This will make it so I can "permanently" remount the tank, install the wiring and the bed.
I dislike stinking up the shop with paint fumes, but I really wanted to keep moving forward on this project this winter.
So, I dropped the fuel tank, pulled the taillight /fuel tank wire harness, cleaned up the frame quickly with a wire brush and then soaked it in Evapo-Rust for a few hours. Then when it warmed up to 35*F yesterday I pushed it out into the driveway and pressure washed it down. Last night it dried off in the warm shop. Today I brushed on some Rustoleum primer on the back half of the frame. I really focused on cleaning up and painting the area that is trapped behind the fuel tank as that is where I see the most damage to the frame from rust on the majority of trucks I work on.
I hope to get some satin black paint on the frame tomorrow. This will make it so I can "permanently" remount the tank, install the wiring and the bed.
#119
Registered User
Thread Starter
My daughter and I just finished brushing on some black paint on the frame. I am off to keep loading up the wood boiler so the shop stays extra warm for the paint to cure.
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Taylorm2121 (01-06-2021)