2wd to 4x4 club cab '92/'93 frame off build
#61
Registered User
Correct. My Drag-n-Fly is a '90 and originally non I/C. When I swapped in the '92 core and coolers, I upgraded to a WH1C that I had in inventory. After stuffing an HX35 into my FireWagon, which is a factory I/C '91.5 engine, I realized the benefit from the HX35 with a few pump mods vs the WH1C. It also has the WG nailed shut.
#63
Registered User
Thread Starter
The earlier HX-35s bolts right up to the exhaust. The later 24V turbo I used needs the rear turbo exhaust flange plate swapped out.
Any turbo with a waste gate I have used is at least a1/2 or so longer on the exhaust housing, than a non waste gated 1st gen turbo, so the exhaust may need to be moved back a bit.
In my case with no exhaust hung and the motor not installed in the frame, a person would not even notice a difference in the exhaust install.
Any turbo with a waste gate I have used is at least a1/2 or so longer on the exhaust housing, than a non waste gated 1st gen turbo, so the exhaust may need to be moved back a bit.
In my case with no exhaust hung and the motor not installed in the frame, a person would not even notice a difference in the exhaust install.
#65
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Thread Starter
Timing case is all buttoned up now and the cover is back on after new gaskets where installed.
Next, I will dig up a later 12V harmonic balancer which is a little bigger diameter, and bolt it on the motor as another budget upgrade.
Next, I will dig up a later 12V harmonic balancer which is a little bigger diameter, and bolt it on the motor as another budget upgrade.
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nothingbutdarts (03-24-2020)
#66
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Thread Starter
I removed a 9 1/4 ish inch harmonic dampener off a '95 12V motor along with the later crank position sensor that has the longer adjustment slots in it for my motor. The '93 motor had a 8 1/4 ish balancer on it from the factory.
The fuel screw tamper proof cap was then pulled to off the original, virgin VE pump. The screw was bottomed out on the lock collar underneath, Out came the fuel screw so I could mess with the screw on the vice. The collar came off with some work and the threads where cleaned up with a pick.
It seems like the fuel screw will barely go past the OEM location when I re installed it. Maybe my '93 auto VE pump was set up at the factory with at the maximum amount of fuel screw adjustment.
The fuel screw tamper proof cap was then pulled to off the original, virgin VE pump. The screw was bottomed out on the lock collar underneath, Out came the fuel screw so I could mess with the screw on the vice. The collar came off with some work and the threads where cleaned up with a pick.
It seems like the fuel screw will barely go past the OEM location when I re installed it. Maybe my '93 auto VE pump was set up at the factory with at the maximum amount of fuel screw adjustment.
#67
Someone has got to teach you how to post pictures! ; ^ )
I am enjoying the thread, Thanks!!!!
I am enjoying the thread, Thanks!!!!
#68
Registered User
Thread Starter
I am glad someone is following along and enjoying it!
I take some pictures as I work and E-mail them to a few Dodge brothers I have. T-man, being on the Dodge Bro. list, will often ask if I want him to post a few up on DTR.
He took the time to help walk me through posting pictures a few years ago, but I am pretty hopeless and to be honest have little motivation to learn. I really like the no cell phone, no texting, no Facebook, no TV, no GPS, all cars / trucks at least 22 years old or older, no credit card life I have.
My sister got married last week in NYC and she said I could get the APP to watch it live on Instagram. I told her the last APP I did was an order of jalapeño poppers from the local Mexican place. We ended up watching it live on my girlfriend's phone.
My daughter and I will sometimes build a little photo album of our project to document them. They are fun to check out years later and also to bring to car shows and such. Some people think clean looking custom builds, happen quickly....think dramatic TV car show style stuff...Really they take a bunch of time and effort to build them right.
I learned a LOT from DTR over the years, so I post up my projects here so people can follow along and ask questions if they want.
I find the guys here at DTR are a great group and collectively really know there stuff.
After getting the dogs some exercise, and getting some work done in the woods, I would like to start work on the South Bend Clutch install tonight.
The following 5 users liked this post by oliver foster:
BHD (03-28-2020),
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#69
I think there quite a few who follow your thread! I could kick myself, I was at the lumber yard today & there was a SWEET looking 1st. gen diesel, I should have taken a picture to post on the sight but didn't think about it till now. Um duh. Maybe I will see it again.
Thanks for all the advice & help you give us newbees, and all the parts you offer us to keep these old things going!!!
Thanks for all the advice & help you give us newbees, and all the parts you offer us to keep these old things going!!!
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oliver foster (03-28-2020)
#70
Registered User
"...I am pretty hopeless and to be honest have little motivation to learn. I really like the no cell phone, no texting, no Facebook, no TV, no GPS, all cars / trucks at least 22 years old or older, no credit card life I have..."
I'm with you there brother! Except I do have a cell phone (old flip phone) that work requires and unfortunately, a credit card - with it's debt... Right on that you shook those two off as well!
I'm with you there brother! Except I do have a cell phone (old flip phone) that work requires and unfortunately, a credit card - with it's debt... Right on that you shook those two off as well!
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#71
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Thread Starter
Well I didn't get to the clutch yet, but I did a bunch of "boring" stuff done to the motor instead.
The belt tensor was swapped out for a nicer one I had on a parts motor. The auto cooler port in the block was swapped out for the manual style one with only one port for the heater core. The oil cooler / oil filter housing 10 MM bolts where re-torqued down as I have seen a lot of those loosen up over the years and start to leak. The throttle rod with cracked socket ends where swapped out for a good one and adjusted to where they have no slop. Just little stuff that should make the truck nicer when it is all back together.
The belt tensor was swapped out for a nicer one I had on a parts motor. The auto cooler port in the block was swapped out for the manual style one with only one port for the heater core. The oil cooler / oil filter housing 10 MM bolts where re-torqued down as I have seen a lot of those loosen up over the years and start to leak. The throttle rod with cracked socket ends where swapped out for a good one and adjusted to where they have no slop. Just little stuff that should make the truck nicer when it is all back together.
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nothingbutdarts (03-29-2020)
#72
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Well I didn't get to the clutch yet, but I did a bunch of "boring" stuff done to the motor instead.
The belt tensor was swapped out for a nicer one I had on a parts motor. The auto cooler port in the block was swapped out for the manual style one with only one port for the heater core. The oil cooler / oil filter housing 10 MM bolts where re-torqued down as I have seen a lot of those loosen up over the years and start to leak. The throttle rod with cracked socket ends where swapped out for a good one and adjusted to where they have no slop. Just little stuff that should make the truck nicer when it is all back together.
The belt tensor was swapped out for a nicer one I had on a parts motor. The auto cooler port in the block was swapped out for the manual style one with only one port for the heater core. The oil cooler / oil filter housing 10 MM bolts where re-torqued down as I have seen a lot of those loosen up over the years and start to leak. The throttle rod with cracked socket ends where swapped out for a good one and adjusted to where they have no slop. Just little stuff that should make the truck nicer when it is all back together.
#73
Registered User
That's the truth!! Maybe I drink too many IPA's between small accomplishments, or maybe I just like to do stuff right the first time. I wonder what the shelf life is on those fancy TV builds.
#74
Registered User
Thread Starter
How they run is way more important to me. Case in point, I spent 20 minutes with brake clean, a wire brush and shop rags cleaning the INSIDE of the bell housing yesterday. No one but me will ever see it again, but I will feel good knowing I removed as much grease and clutch dust out of there to keep my new clutch clean and working the best it can. I barely cleaned the OUTSIDE of it.
A side note on Getrag bell housing that might help other 1st gen'ers. The Getrag bell housings come with TWO DIFFERENT bolt sizes over the years. You want to pay attention as the smaller bolts will catch JUST enough threads in the larger holes in some of the bell housings that you might not catch it...but I bet it would strip out quickly when driven.
I am using the bigger bolts on the bell that take the bigger bolts on this project.
The things that have been getting done in the shop the past two days include.
Fresh clutch and flywheel installation.
I sourced a 29 spline NP-205, which has 120,000 on it that is in great shape off my old '89 yard / firewood dump truck I parted last fall. I dumped the oil out of the NP-205 and it looked good last night. I will wire brush some of the grease and grim off it before installing it.
I am hoping to assemble the rebuilt Getrag and NP-205 parts onto the motor today.
I plan on dropping the complete engine, Getrag and NP-205 into the painted 4x4 frame as a complete unit. Then drop the cab and front clip on afterwards.
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#75
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well the engine, transmission, T-case package is all assembled now.
Some things slowed me down a bit as I fixed little things that arose during the install. Things like:
As I was getting ready to install the bell housing I noticed neither the bell or the adapter plate had the two alignment dowel to perfectly align things. I found one spare on the A-518 that was behind that motor and another on a 727 I had on the shop floor.
I also noticed the clutch fork retainer clip was slightly bent and wasn't working like it should. I removed it and got it back into shape then re-riveted it to the clutch fork...Good as new.
The last thing that slowed down the transmission install was I couldn't quite get the input shaft to easily slide into the pilot bearing on the flywheel. The recommendation of one of Dodge friends was open up the clutch if I was sure everything was in line as there was likely some mis alignment of the clutch and the pilot bearing, even when using the clutch install tool.
Well with me doing this on the shop floor, I couldn't just hop in the truck and step on the clutch pedal to do this. I made a quick tool to open the clutch with a long bolt and cab mount from a 2nd gen to open the fork up using the force of the screw. Worked like a charm!
I now have to move a few things around the shop and get ready to swap out the motor, getrag and T-case out of the 4x4 frame and swap in the fresh powertrain.
Some things slowed me down a bit as I fixed little things that arose during the install. Things like:
As I was getting ready to install the bell housing I noticed neither the bell or the adapter plate had the two alignment dowel to perfectly align things. I found one spare on the A-518 that was behind that motor and another on a 727 I had on the shop floor.
I also noticed the clutch fork retainer clip was slightly bent and wasn't working like it should. I removed it and got it back into shape then re-riveted it to the clutch fork...Good as new.
The last thing that slowed down the transmission install was I couldn't quite get the input shaft to easily slide into the pilot bearing on the flywheel. The recommendation of one of Dodge friends was open up the clutch if I was sure everything was in line as there was likely some mis alignment of the clutch and the pilot bearing, even when using the clutch install tool.
Well with me doing this on the shop floor, I couldn't just hop in the truck and step on the clutch pedal to do this. I made a quick tool to open the clutch with a long bolt and cab mount from a 2nd gen to open the fork up using the force of the screw. Worked like a charm!
I now have to move a few things around the shop and get ready to swap out the motor, getrag and T-case out of the 4x4 frame and swap in the fresh powertrain.
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