so i just received my fuel pressure gauge in the mail but unfortunatly when i bought it off ebayi neglected to see if it was a 2/16 or 2/58 gauge and now am at a block in the road. i thought it was a normal gauge and was going to mount it on the column cover but its a 2 5/8 so that wont work. im trying to decide which would be better to mount it in a cup on top of my dash or underneath. if i do it on top im afraid that i might not be able to see real well with the pillar guages and that on the left side. and before i eve go mounting it anywhere does anyone else have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab???? my dad was telling me to mount it on the cowl but i dont think the prostreet look works on diesels. i dont see the big deal about mounting it in the cab because autometer uses stainless stell braided hose to connect it. anyone have any input?

 

I plan on putting my trans temp and a fuel pressure guage in the spot where the cargo light button is ( to the right of the column on the bottom ). As far as mounting it in the cab go for it I know JD730 has one in his cab and if I'm not mistaken so does Dave. As long as the connections are tight you won't have anything to worry about.

 

Zach has his in his cab too... i saw it when riding in his truck at fall brawl.

 

I have Fuel-pressure and oil-pressure in the cab on many of my trucks with no negative issues in many years.

VERY IMPORTANT :
On any mechanical fluid pressure gauge, install a ball-type shut-off valve on the line UNDER THE HOOD, preferably by first screwing the valve into the source of pressure, then attaching the gauge-line to the valve.

Should anything go wrong in the cab, such as a gauge-line rupture or come apart from the gauge, the flow of fluid can be stopped by simply turning OFF the valve.


I would not want a GASOLINE pressure gauge inside the cab; DIESEL is an entirely different animal and very unlikely to turn the cab into an inferno.



As to gauge placement, I would opt for a self-built panel above the dash, built to accomodate several gauges; unless one is very short, line of sight will not be affected.

 

mine is a electronic gauge so no worries of diesel getting in the cab for me. Just make sure you put a shut off valve and you will be fine. As far as where to mount it, i once seen someone use electrical tape and attached it steering column. It did not look to bad actually. I have mine mounted to the left of my ash try at about knee height

 

A needle valve works well for this, as you can use it to modulate the pump pulses by just barely cracking it open:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CTD_42.jpg

I have about a 2' length of rubber hose from the tap off post filter. That, along with the needle valve, gives me a rock-steady mechanical gauge reading.

 

good idea on the valve. ill have to look into that. what im curious about is, i have the tapped banjo bolt from geno's and it takes a 1/8th inch male NPT fitting, im sure i can find a ball valve with that style thread no problem, but i know that the line im ordering from autometer has -4 an fittings both ends how could i adapt that to the ball valve??

 

By ordering a couple of these JIC/NPT adapters :

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/product_p/2404.htm


Best I can tell, the ones you need are third row down, part number 2404-04-02.



For our purposes, JIC and AN are one and the same, with JIC being usually a BUNCH less expensive.


JIC = Joint International Conference

AN = Army/Navy

Both are 37* Flare fittings; AN is specified/certified for aircraft use; other than that, AN is no different from JIC.