u2slow

Pop the top off the passenger side and investigate the condition. The springs can also be shimmed with a big washer for increased pressure.

The delete stuff is mainly for the rock crawler crowd that have hydraulic ram steering.

Oran

I got the front suspension completed over the weekend, as well as the rear shocks. I didnt get around to the rear springs because I wasnt aware ahead of time that the hardware was so much larger. Also, im not sure if im going to be able to get that shackle out without removing the fuel tank. Anyway, the profile of the truck looks amazing leveled, but the driver's side sag looks more pronounced now than it did on the old saggy springs. What can I do to correct that? Should I look for some sort of spacer? Maybe add one of my old leaf springs to the new stack? Oh, also, I notice my camber is slightly off on both sides on the front after doing the suspension, any ideas on how I can correct that, even a little, short of getting it alligned? Im not convinced any shops in my area can or know how to align a setup with kingpins and dont feel like throwing my money away.

oliver foster

I usually add longer shackles to improve castor, which is what I think you are having a problem with.

I find shimming up the REAR drivers side spring does a lot to help out the FRONT drivers side sag. I just added a 1/2 block , also called a "zero rate spring" sometimes, to the bottom of my leaf pack last winter on my lifted '85 crew cab with Skyjacker 6 inch rear springs I bought 20 plus years ago.

Oran

Isnt camber where the top and bottom of the tire stick out/in farther on one than the other like allot of people intentionally do with ricers? That is what I am seeing. It looks like the passenger side tire is in on top/out on bottom, and the opposite on the drivers side

oliver foster

Adding a lift will not change the camber. It will change the castor if it has angle shims on the bottom of the new springs.

I would check the king pins if the wheel is leaning in or out.