Thanks, I will be replacing that plug for sure now. I dread this one!

 

If it's not leaking, don't mess with it. That's not a common trouble spot.

 

Good advice, as I said in my previous post, it's not a common problem. Just don't overlook anything, could be something as simple as a leaky valve cover gasket. Keep your eyes and mind open, don't do as my friend did and automatically change the seal without at least addressing other sources for the leak.

 

I would HIGHLY recommend at least pulling the flywheel adaptor and checking the cam plug. If there is any wetness at all, replace it. It's only a couple bucks, and EASY to install. I installed a rear main on my 91, and it leaked oil worse than before. Turned out to be that cam plug. I'll bet that is what is leaking on Mom's 92, as well. That, or the nitwit who did the tranny rebuild installed it lubed.

Daniel

 

I will be checking the plug I guess. I just need a warm weekend. Pulling the transfer case to weld 5th back on was a pain out in the cold, and I will try to capture my $80 worth of Mopar gear lube this time... It's been a few weeks and my hair still smells like gear oil every morning what I wash it.

I need to fix the vacuum pump leak also, so I'm kicking around the idea of pulling everything out. If I had a shop with a overhead hoist it'd be a no brainer...
As it is, I'm using about a gallon of Rotalla T a week which is getting expensive.

 

Why does it get installed dry? I think this is the first seal I have ever come across that would be installed dry.
I would have coated the seal with engine oil if I hadn't read this.
Regards,
Ken

 

The rear main and the timing cover seal both need to be installed perfectly dry on the Cummins because upon first spin of the engine the seal melts slightly to form a custon fit seal.

 

Why does it get installed dry? I think this is the first seal I have ever come across that would be installed dry.
I would have coated the seal with engine oil if I hadn't read this.
Regards,
Ken

 

The rear main and the timing cover seal both need to be installed perfectly dry on the Cummins because upon first spin of the engine the seal melts slightly to form a custon fit seal.

 

I helped Timinva drop my transfer case and tranny in his shop on a lift. The tranny is 275 pounds, the transfer case is 175 pounds. We only had one tranny jack so three of us manhandled the transfer case to the ground and back. You would, imho, be well advised to drop them seperately. The way the t-case is mounted throws the center of gravity off a bunch. If you take out the work we did on the tranny, the whole job can be done in as little as four hours with the right tools. I would not want attempt to do the job laying on card board. Guess I,m spoiled.

 

I can either do it in the garage (well, sort of part way in) or pay someone about $500 smackers to do it, which I don't have. So it's sore neck and tranny fluid scented hair tonic for me I guess.

 

On that transfer case thing.

Do yourself a favor and while it's put together, take some scrap iron and make a little jig that can rest between the trans-jack and the installed transfer case. It'll be wedge shaped when done.

Strap it down good and let it on down. Use the same jig, in the same position to put it back in.

 

Your truck has very low miles. Your rear seal may have failed because your truck may have been sitting for an extended period of time. I doubt that the seal land on the crank is grooved but check it anyway. Wish my old girl had only 80K on her.

 

Excellent suggestion!

 

The weight I quoted (275#) is for the A518. I don't have experience on the manuals.