1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

1990 D250 to W250

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Old 05-09-2017, 05:59 PM
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Looks good, Mark. Nothing wrong with that install! Are you going to pop in a filter minder into that tube? Those filter minders, should have came stock from the factory. They have them at NAPA/Riebes. They have remote mount, which calls for 1/4" tubing and a fitting installed into your tube to accept the tubing, or an inset mount that mounts onto your tube. You just need to get a rubber bushing to seal it up.
Old 05-09-2017, 06:12 PM
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Works great, but with the net available, you can probably get it cheaper at Amazon or something. Believe Riebes wants like almost $40 for one of these.

This is my second one, as I accidentally spilled a drop of goof off, the non plastic safe kind on my first one. It was still functional, but blurred out bad. So bad, it bugged me. Turned in some recyclables one afternoon and replaced it with the recycle money, LOL.
This beats opening up the air box, to check to see if your filters due for a change.

If you aren't picky, and don't mind messing with added tubing, I have a remote kind I'll give you, if you want it. I didn't care for the remote one, as it got old removing my intake duct, being careful not to overstretch or damage the "umbilical cord", LOL. But if you want it, it's yours. Has a mount flange so you can place it anywhere you want.
If you want to see a pic of that, let me know.
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Old 05-09-2017, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by bigragu
Looks good, Mark. Nothing wrong with that install! Are you going to pop in a filter minder into that tube? Those filter minders, should have came stock from the factory. They have them at NAPA/Riebes. They have remote mount, which calls for 1/4" tubing and a fitting installed into your tube to accept the tubing, or an inset mount that mounts onto your tube. You just need to get a rubber bushing to seal it up.
I may do that later on.once I get going. Threr is a bunch of stuff that I had to move down the priority list. Oh well at least I won't run out of things to do.
Old 05-09-2017, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bigragu
Works great, but with the net available, you can probably get it cheaper at Amazon or something. Believe Riebes wants like almost $40 for one of these.

This is my second one, as I accidentally spilled a drop of goof off, the non plastic safe kind on my first one. It was still functional, but blurred out bad. So bad, it bugged me. Turned in some recyclables one afternoon and replaced it with the recycle money, LOL.
This beats opening up the air box, to check to see if your filters due for a change.

If you aren't picky, and don't mind messing with added tubing, I have a remote kind I'll give you, if you want it. I didn't care for the remote one, as it got old removing my intake duct, being careful not to overstretch or damage the "umbilical cord", LOL. But if you want it, it's yours. Has a mount flange so you can place it anywhere you want.
If you want to see a pic of that, let me know.
we use them on the big trucks.
Old 05-10-2017, 12:12 AM
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I've had a filter minder for a couple years now, just have not got around to adding it to the piping yet, plus with the move I am now unsure of where it is...

I look at the filter on my commercial truck and I am always surprised how dirty they have to get before there is restriction to move the filter minder gauge.

How often do you have to change the filter Augie with your filter minder?
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Old 05-10-2017, 08:43 AM
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a couple more form yesterday.
Attached Thumbnails 1990 D250 to W250-dscn0434.jpg   1990 D250 to W250-dscn0435.jpg   1990 D250 to W250-dscn0436.jpg   1990 D250 to W250-dscn0437.jpg  
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Old 05-10-2017, 09:07 AM
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Youre stylin' there, Mark. Almost to the finish line. Really like how you've oriented the hoses, all in line, parallel to each other.
Hey, where did you get that heater hose, the ones going into the cab, connecting to the heat coil? Never have seen heater hose with the lettering on there. I like it.
Old 05-10-2017, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by thrashingcows
I've had a filter minder for a couple years now, just have not got around to adding it to the piping yet, plus with the move I am now unsure of where it is...

I look at the filter on my commercial truck and I am always surprised how dirty they have to get before there is restriction to move the filter minder gauge.

How often do you have to change the filter Augie with your filter minder?
Hey, TCows, on my filter minder, it seems when an oil change is coming up at 5000 mile intervals, I notice the FM is about halfway to 3/4 sucked down. Every time. At every oil change, I service my air filter.
I've never had that filter minder all the way sucked down, and I don't ever plan on running the truck to that point w/o servicing the filter.
Now, with all that said, I can have a spankin' clean filter, and punch my accelerator pedal on those go fast moments, and pull that FM 1/4 down. I run a K&N, with an Outerwears pre filter sock over it, and that's probably why. Then, the FM just stays there where it ended up at a 1/4 down. If I happen to do my pedal punch again, it won't move it down any further, not until around 3000 miles later, then it starts to creep down, as the filter is getting dirty. The FM is doing it's job.
That commercial truck of yours, the filter minder, must have a really tough spring in there. Either that, or the intake duct from filter to turbo has intake leaks. I mean, that makes sense to me, if the filter is so dirty, and the filter minder hasn't budged.
Didn't realize that these FM had different spring tension rates, until I installed an aftermarket intake system on my 2002 Powerstroke. The kit came with a filter minder, had the Ford label on it, and looked exactly like the factory FM. My wife was driving it up some steep grades, and asked me what that light on the dash meant. It was an icon that tells you the filter is clogged. No way, I thought, as it's a new filter. Sure enough, that FM bellows was all the way expanded. I took the aftermarket FM off, and reinstalled the factory FM. Never did it again, even with go fast, high boost spurts.
Old 05-10-2017, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by bigragu
Youre stylin' there, Mark. Almost to the finish line. Really like how you've oriented the hoses, all in line, parallel to each other.
Hey, where did you get that heater hose, the ones going into the cab, connecting to the heat coil? Never have seen heater hose with the lettering on there. I like it.
Thanks Augie. I like to keep hoses and wires that go in the same direction together. It just looks neater.
The heater hoses are the original silicone hoses.
Old 05-10-2017, 11:11 AM
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Well, Mark, knock on wood, but I believe my HB is all done. All the quirks and idiocincracies have been worked out( double knock on wood, LOL). My brake light in the cab still keeps lighting up, only if I depress the pedal more than an inch. That deal you sent me, as far as the prop valve being out of balance, there is a test I found on the net, where you hook up a test light to positive, and with the truck turned on, engine off, you touch the probe onto that brake switch on top of the prop valve. If the light stays off on the test probe, I'm good. If the light comes on, the prop valve is out of balance. Mine checked out good, and I had my niece push on the pedal while I cracked the lines at the distribution block below the prop valve, and saw no bubbles, as an extra check.

Called Butch at Tallon, and he said it's all good, and if I can learn to live with the light coming on and going off, then fine. If not, it's because my prop valve was not meant for HB, and the fix would be to find a prop valve off of a Dodge that came with HB and swap it out. No thanks, LOL! Not even going to attempt remaking brake lines, LOL. Just think I'm going to open up another can of worms doing that.
Anyway, as usual, long post. Just wanted to say thanks for talking me into converting over, bro. It is definitely the best mod yet to my truck.
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Old 05-10-2017, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bigragu
Well, Mark, knock on wood, but I believe my HB is all done. All the quirks and idiocincracies have been worked out( double knock on wood, LOL). My brake light in the cab still keeps lighting up, only if I depress the pedal more than an inch. That deal you sent me, as far as the prop valve being out of balance, there is a test I found on the net, where you hook up a test light to positive, and with the truck turned on, engine off, you touch the probe onto that brake switch on top of the prop valve. If the light stays off on the test probe, I'm good. If the light comes on, the prop valve is out of balance. Mine checked out good, and I had my niece push on the pedal while I cracked the lines at the distribution block below the prop valve, and saw no bubbles, as an extra check.

Called Butch at Tallon, and he said it's all good, and if I can learn to live with the light coming on and going off, then fine. If not, it's because my prop valve was not meant for HB, and the fix would be to find a prop valve off of a Dodge that came with HB and swap it out. No thanks, LOL! Not even going to attempt remaking brake lines, LOL. Just think I'm going to open up another can of worms doing that.
Anyway, as usual, long post. Just wanted to say thanks for talking me into converting over, bro. It is definitely the best mod yet to my truck.
Like anything new it takes some getting used to.
Old 05-10-2017, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bigragu
Youre stylin' there, Mark. Almost to the finish line. Really like how you've oriented the hoses, all in line, parallel to each other.
Hey, where did you get that heater hose, the ones going into the cab, connecting to the heat coil? Never have seen heater hose with the lettering on there. I like it.
Finish line. what's that? I think I am at the starting line of the little stuff.
Old 05-10-2017, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mknittle
Finish line. what's that? I think I am at the starting line of the little stuff.
Oh, yes, "loose ends".

One of the things I started doing, as I learned this from all the punch list items that arrive at the tail end of a major construction project, is the good old pen paper, and list writing. I tried this, with my thrust bearing fix project. That work, which included tappet cover leak fix, meaning removal of the pump, and additional upgrades to my automatic tranny got me overwhelmed, as mainly I am not an automotive mechanic by trade. So, I said, what the heck, list all the tasks down, and check off each day what was completed after wrenching.

Made the project more manageable, and also gave me a heads up of what parts and any specialty tools I needed to have on hand for each task.

What sucks is we're all getting older, and the sharpness in memory we had when we were in our twenties is gone. So, the lists help.
Mark, promise me that if you ever meet my wife, that you don't tell her I do lists for the truck, as she's been trying for years for me to create lists for all the yard work and house maintenance tasks. I've told her for years, " I don't do lists...got it all up here in the noggin".

Then she gets home from work, and nothing was done, on the tasks she asked me to do, LOL
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Old 05-10-2017, 09:34 PM
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Here is where I am at today. got the front wheels on and torqued then pulled the rears and painted the drums and hubs.After lunch I got the rears on and torqued then put my crappy bumper on to hold up my license plate. I also set the toe on the front wheels.
I will re check it in the morning with a better method.
Attached Thumbnails 1990 D250 to W250-dscn0438.jpg   1990 D250 to W250-dscn0439.jpg   1990 D250 to W250-dscn0441.jpg   1990 D250 to W250-dscn0442.jpg  
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Old 05-11-2017, 11:48 AM
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Looks good mark. Are u gonna paint it
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