mknittle

This morning I did some bending on a piece of 3/8" tubing. First off I had to do a quick fix on the tube bender.

I retrieved a 11/16-18 flare nut for 3/8" tube from an old Chevy power steering hose.
On the first try the radius looked good but there was a straight section just after the nut that was about a 1/2" too long. This caused the outside of the radius to interfere with the frame.
It took me a little while to come up with plan B. So I cut the end off to retrieve my precious nut

This time I started with a straight piece of tubing with no nut or flare. I put it in the bender as far as i could get to the end and bent a 90*. Now I put the nut on and double flared the tube. Right off it looked better.
So I tried it. BINGO it cleared the frame
Now that I know how to do it I can start with a longer tube and Braze one of these on the end.http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm2872
I can also make a brace to the hole in the frame in picture 4 .

mknittle

Here is my parts list for the hoses.
Hose
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcg0606

2, 90* ends for the booster ends.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1389

1, 45* for the steering gear end.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1386

1, 5/8-18 45* for the pump end
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1382
Note the flow valve has to be changed to the old style with a inverted flare.

mknittle

And the adapters.

One each of these on the booster.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-961956erl
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-961955erl

This for the steering gear end
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm2872

And I have the early style GM flow valve.



Here is an alternative for the pump end.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/afc-37130

mknittle

This shows how simple the hoses are to make. I don't care for his method of cutting the hose but you get the idea.

oliver foster

Any old excuse to use your chisel while working on your truck.

mknittle

I was surprised at that.

mknittle

I ordered a hydroboost rebuild kit today. Other than that I dug 300 feet of trench through some pretty hard shale.

thrashingcows

What one did you go with? Complete kit with all the small parts, or just the seals?

mknittle

I went with the complete kit. The price difference isn't that much and you know how it goes. Sure enough if I bought just the seal kit something would need replacing that I didn't have.

thrashingcows

Well thanks for that...I only went with the seal kit....Doooh!

mknittle

You probably will be fine with that. Now all we have to do is find the time to tear them apart.

mknittle

Today I finished disassembling and cleaning my hydroboost. I also made a makeshift seal installation tool out of a calking tube spout. I haven't tried it yet but it fits on the input pushrod nice and tight.

This in theory should work better than the packing tape used in this write up{ a little farther than half way down the page}.
Hydroboost reseal tutorial (long)

I will post some pictures tomorrow.

mknittle

not too complicated.

thrashingcows

Like it!

mknittle

When I worked for *** & SONS I made a bunch Of seal installation tools and piston seal compressors. We made all our own hydraulic actuators. linear and rotatory. Fun stuff I miss those days