1990 D250 to W250
#16
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I spent a couple hours cleaning up the transmission and transfer case. They were pretty clean to begin with. I just want to clean them up and paint them before I start the swap.
#17
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This morning I spent a couple hours taking the carpet and insulation out to get a better look at the Floor. that transmission tunnel is tiny. the floor looks pretty good with just a little bit of surface rust.
It looks like I am going to do a transmission tunnel swap from a 4wd. I thought about modifying the stock one but decided to scrap that idea. It will be much easier to cut and weld a stock part from another truck. That way A stock floor mat or carpet will fit.
It looks like I am going to do a transmission tunnel swap from a 4wd. I thought about modifying the stock one but decided to scrap that idea. It will be much easier to cut and weld a stock part from another truck. That way A stock floor mat or carpet will fit.
#18
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Sounds like the right thing to do. More work...Yup...but you'll be happier when all is said and done.
If you can try and get as much of the floor from the donor as possible....since
the floor leading up to, and around the tranny hump will be a bit different. And you may need to hack out a large section of the floor to get things to lay and fit right.
If you can try and get as much of the floor from the donor as possible....since
the floor leading up to, and around the tranny hump will be a bit different. And you may need to hack out a large section of the floor to get things to lay and fit right.
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Gunch (03-07-2020)
#19
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Sounds like the right thing to do. More work...Yup...but you'll be happier when all is said and done.
If you can try and get as much of the floor from the donor as possible....since
the floor leading up to, and around the tranny hump will be a bit different. And you may need to hack out a large section of the floor to get things to lay and fit right.
If you can try and get as much of the floor from the donor as possible....since
the floor leading up to, and around the tranny hump will be a bit different. And you may need to hack out a large section of the floor to get things to lay and fit right.
Besides it is a good time to take the Heater/AC out and clean it out. The AC doesn't work so I am not losing anything there.
I think it's 6 of one half a dozen another time wise( for me anyway)But sheet metal is easier to lift. Plus the holes for the shifters are already there
#21
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Thanks, It took me a while to come up with the 3 peace bolt together design that I ended up with. It started out 3"X4" 1/4"wall tubing. Luckily I had A stock one to measure. (not mine) Mine is the same on both sides(the stock one is lower on the left) So I will have to shorten the motor mount standoff on the engine. If I figured right mine also tucks up closer to the pan.
It's fun to work on something that isn't 50 years old and is in pretty good condition to start with not that I don't like the old stuff. just a change
It's fun to work on something that isn't 50 years old and is in pretty good condition to start with not that I don't like the old stuff. just a change
#22
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
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Enjoying your fabrication pix..... but like any junkie.....
We need more PIX !!!!
and some good technical information to accompany them..
We need more PIX !!!!
and some good technical information to accompany them..
#23
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#24
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I didn't get much done today. First thing was to sand the burs off my doner transmission tunnel. then just for fun I made a drawing for a alumunim transfercase boot retainer to replace the crappy bent up steel one.
#25
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Thread Starter
Then I made a temporary cover for my left kick panel vent. I will replace it when I get around to the interior.
First picture is how I set up the guide my the plasma cutter. It is 1/8" from the line I want to cut to the inside of the flame.I also have a cool way to cut circles from 4" up. I will post a picture when I find it.
The second picture is a way to cheat to get a more even corner radius. works pretty good too.
Third is my cheapie hole deburing tool. I got it at Home Depot in the pluming department.
I also usually use a step drill(on sheet metal) on holes up to 3/4" hole saws from there to 4" and my handy dandyhome made circle fixture for the plasma cutter.
After the metalwork I sprayed some Rustolem hammered black on it and called it good.
P.S. ignore the date stamp the battery died and I Forgot to set the clock
First picture is how I set up the guide my the plasma cutter. It is 1/8" from the line I want to cut to the inside of the flame.I also have a cool way to cut circles from 4" up. I will post a picture when I find it.
The second picture is a way to cheat to get a more even corner radius. works pretty good too.
Third is my cheapie hole deburing tool. I got it at Home Depot in the pluming department.
I also usually use a step drill(on sheet metal) on holes up to 3/4" hole saws from there to 4" and my handy dandyhome made circle fixture for the plasma cutter.
After the metalwork I sprayed some Rustolem hammered black on it and called it good.
P.S. ignore the date stamp the battery died and I Forgot to set the clock
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Here is the circle cutter. I used a peice of longer all thread to cut a 15" dia circle for a fan shroud.
And a link to a home brew steering column I made for my 52 GMC Streetrod.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=474288
And a link to a home brew steering column I made for my 52 GMC Streetrod.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=474288
#29
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Thread Starter
#30
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Here a part cut with the same tool. The part with the guess stick fits a 3" axle tube. These are homemade hangers for coil-over shocks made with only a drill press ,plasma cutter and a 4" angle grinder. The pic on the right is before I found a good way to bend all 4 lower brackets the same.