1990 D250 to W250
#182
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#183
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So far today, I got an early start on the rearend was able to give it a good soaking then wash. next I will wipe it down with a rag with some diluted phosphoric acid to remove the flash rust then with thinner and prime.
The frame was just wiped down to remove the dust and crud next I will scuff it and wipe it again then primer. I am starting to feel like I am getting somewhere.
The frame was just wiped down to remove the dust and crud next I will scuff it and wipe it again then primer. I am starting to feel like I am getting somewhere.
#184
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That frame is looking sexy.
Nice work, Mark!
Nice work, Mark!
#185
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Thanks Oliver, It surprised me that it was that nice under the road film and dust. The thing I really wanted to get this far is the rear differential before I get overrun with truck tires this coming weekend. the frame is a bonus.
I probably only sat under it for an hour with an assortment of wire wheels on a angel head air drill and a angle head die grinder with a 3"scotchbeite pad.
I probably only sat under it for an hour with an assortment of wire wheels on a angel head air drill and a angle head die grinder with a 3"scotchbeite pad.
#187
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#188
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Now I am getting a mess of little stuff ready to paint. I want to paint as many parts individually as I can.
#189
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This morning I made some new spring plates(The ones that go on the top of the rear springs)
The original ones were pretty hokey and didn't fit my new U bolts very well. so I made some that fit.
The first thing I did this morning was to layout the positions of the holes and clearance notches for the u bolts. I did one on each end of a piece of 2.5 X 3/8 hot rolled. I do it like this whenever I can so I have leverage when drilling holes bigger than 3/8".
I drilled the holes to 11/16" because I was too lazy to sharpen a 3/4" bit
Next I used this handy dandy radiused flap wheel to cut the notches. It worked better than expected.
the all that was left was to cut the parts off each end of the bar and sand the mill scale off.
The original ones were pretty hokey and didn't fit my new U bolts very well. so I made some that fit.
The first thing I did this morning was to layout the positions of the holes and clearance notches for the u bolts. I did one on each end of a piece of 2.5 X 3/8 hot rolled. I do it like this whenever I can so I have leverage when drilling holes bigger than 3/8".
I drilled the holes to 11/16" because I was too lazy to sharpen a 3/4" bit
Next I used this handy dandy radiused flap wheel to cut the notches. It worked better than expected.
the all that was left was to cut the parts off each end of the bar and sand the mill scale off.
#190
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After my 4wd conversion on the crew I have fallen in love with flapper discs, and step drills. I had never used either of these in the past....No one should be with out these!!
Once again the parts fab work your doing Mark looks great!!
Once again the parts fab work your doing Mark looks great!!
#191
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Thanks again, I am just having fun. maybe I should get out more often.
#192
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The flapper disk I used this time is made to smooth corner welds. The grit goes all the way around the end and on to the top. They are about 3 times the price of the regular flap disks but worth it. Needless to say I hide it when I am not using it.
#193
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That picture of your frame makes me want to move, or cry, or maybe both. I gotta find me some of those radiused flap discs -- they look handy.
Looks as though you are making some good progress!
Looks as though you are making some good progress!
#194
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Todays progress.
#195
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