1990 D250 to W250
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
1990 D250 to W250 metamorphosis
I refound this board a couple months ago while searching for information on a four wheel drive conversion. Seems like a pretty cool board
I want to start a build thread but I am not sure if this is the place.
I have a 90' D250 that I have had since 96'. It has somewhere close to 200,000 miles on it and runs pretty good, the body is also solid. basically a good place to start a new life for it.
I wanted a four wheel drive when I bought it but that didn't work out. So 17 years and 200,000 miles later, worn suspension bushings and steering components something has to be done. But there is light at the end of the tunnel.
I was given most of the running gear out of a 90' W250. I got the bell housing, transmission(Getrag), transfer case, Dana 60/70 axles front springs and a bunch of misc. parts.
For the last couple months I have been collecting the parts to put it together spring bushings ,rear lift blocks U bolts, Clutch etc.
The missing parts were the cross members and clutch fork. I found a clutch fork and the transmission cross member from a W150. the cross member was the same accept for the right hand brace that goes to the top flange of the frame. I also found one of those.
I am looking forward to getting started swapping parts.
I want to start a build thread but I am not sure if this is the place.
I have a 90' D250 that I have had since 96'. It has somewhere close to 200,000 miles on it and runs pretty good, the body is also solid. basically a good place to start a new life for it.
I wanted a four wheel drive when I bought it but that didn't work out. So 17 years and 200,000 miles later, worn suspension bushings and steering components something has to be done. But there is light at the end of the tunnel.
I was given most of the running gear out of a 90' W250. I got the bell housing, transmission(Getrag), transfer case, Dana 60/70 axles front springs and a bunch of misc. parts.
For the last couple months I have been collecting the parts to put it together spring bushings ,rear lift blocks U bolts, Clutch etc.
The missing parts were the cross members and clutch fork. I found a clutch fork and the transmission cross member from a W150. the cross member was the same accept for the right hand brace that goes to the top flange of the frame. I also found one of those.
I am looking forward to getting started swapping parts.
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
Here is an older picture it looks pretty much the same now, maybe a little less paint though I will take some more before I take it apart.
#3
Registered User
I'm just about to start tearing my crewcab apart for the same D350 to W350 conversion. Going to be a ton of work!
Sure you can run a thread about your build up here. Many do it, so join in. Make sure you post lots of pics...we like to look at pictures.
Sure you can run a thread about your build up here. Many do it, so join in. Make sure you post lots of pics...we like to look at pictures.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeah, I think the hardest part is going to be taking the 2WD cross-member out.
I like the crew cabs There used to be a super clean 69 around here that I would love to get my grubby hands on.
#5
Banned
Converting too 4x4 is very easy you don't have to change out the back spring's if you don't want to and taking out the 2 wheel drive cross member is a Piece of cake then the Fun Begin's you get too do alot of drilling and bolting stuff back together .
#6
Administrator
Q.
I assume all of you know the trick to drilling your frame rails to hang the hardware,
A.
1)Buy or rent a magnetic base drill press specifically made to drill frames.
OR,
The way I do it, I used my 1/2" Milwaukee drill using a cobalt drill bit, (you could use a helper here) hold the drill accurately where you want to drill the finished hole, now take a section of seat belt or chain with a hook and pass it through the handle of the drill motor and wrap it around the frame rail you want to drill, now to drill your hole, after applying a generous supply of cutting oil using an acid brush, start the motor and starting applying a clamping force to the drill by using your handle extension and begin twisting the drill motor against the belt or chain.
This will pull the drill bit into the metal, just keep it going straight and well lubricated.
I could drill 5/8" holes in thick freightliner tractor frame rails in about 2-minuets each.
Always use Low RPM to drill large holes.
I assume all of you know the trick to drilling your frame rails to hang the hardware,
A.
1)Buy or rent a magnetic base drill press specifically made to drill frames.
OR,
The way I do it, I used my 1/2" Milwaukee drill using a cobalt drill bit, (you could use a helper here) hold the drill accurately where you want to drill the finished hole, now take a section of seat belt or chain with a hook and pass it through the handle of the drill motor and wrap it around the frame rail you want to drill, now to drill your hole, after applying a generous supply of cutting oil using an acid brush, start the motor and starting applying a clamping force to the drill by using your handle extension and begin twisting the drill motor against the belt or chain.
This will pull the drill bit into the metal, just keep it going straight and well lubricated.
I could drill 5/8" holes in thick freightliner tractor frame rails in about 2-minuets each.
Always use Low RPM to drill large holes.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Mag drills are great if you have the room , wish I hade one sometimes.
I spent 20 years as a machinist so drilling holes shouldn't be any problem.
I like to start with a 1/8" pilot hole and go up to the size I want in 1/8" increments.
Right now I am cleaning and painting parts. I have also made some Parts to replace stock parts that I didn't like the looks of. I will post some pics later.
I spent 20 years as a machinist so drilling holes shouldn't be any problem.
I like to start with a 1/8" pilot hole and go up to the size I want in 1/8" increments.
Right now I am cleaning and painting parts. I have also made some Parts to replace stock parts that I didn't like the looks of. I will post some pics later.
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Every time I just about get started my wife comes up with a use for the truck
I think she is worried about my problem with what I call "The snowball effect" That's when the project starts rolling and gets bigger as it goes.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
some new pictures. This is what I am starting with. over all not too bad
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
And a couple parts I made for the project
the in the first picture
The part on the left with the gussets is the vertical plate that bolts the left spring hanger to the frame. I am making new spring hangers to replace the junky stock ones that I have.
In the center is the motor mount crossmember that I didn't get from the doner that my parts came from. The flanges laying flat on the table go on the ends ot the crossmember to bolt to the frame
On the left is the right hand spring plate to replace the stock one that I didn't like the looks of
the other two pictures are the same parts at different angles.
So far so good
the in the first picture
The part on the left with the gussets is the vertical plate that bolts the left spring hanger to the frame. I am making new spring hangers to replace the junky stock ones that I have.
In the center is the motor mount crossmember that I didn't get from the doner that my parts came from. The flanges laying flat on the table go on the ends ot the crossmember to bolt to the frame
On the left is the right hand spring plate to replace the stock one that I didn't like the looks of
the other two pictures are the same parts at different angles.
So far so good
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks John,
I bought the gauges from a guy that I worked with about 15 years ago. He bought a bunch of parts then wrecked the truck before he got the chance to install them. Unfortunately I don't know where he got them. RW Products is printed on the face of the gauges if that helps.
I have a lot of ideas for it but we will see which ones stick.
Like a second gen seat and a bird bath hood. I will also remove the RWAL and hopefully adding stainless steel braided brake lines to firm up the brakes a bit.
I bought the gauges from a guy that I worked with about 15 years ago. He bought a bunch of parts then wrecked the truck before he got the chance to install them. Unfortunately I don't know where he got them. RW Products is printed on the face of the gauges if that helps.
I have a lot of ideas for it but we will see which ones stick.
Like a second gen seat and a bird bath hood. I will also remove the RWAL and hopefully adding stainless steel braided brake lines to firm up the brakes a bit.