LMG

I have been dealing with turbo gas engines for years, and some electronic diesel tuning for a bit. Well now I have a mechanical injection Cummings and need to know where to start. Its a stock intercooled 1st gen, turbo on it is an H1C, in an F250. I was told it was a second gen but the from what I have seen here the pump looks like a first gen. It seems to run okay, but you know we always need more. I would like to know where to start. This is my first post, and I have been searching around and reading as much as possible the last few days. I have read many articles but until I actually tear into the pump they are mostly latin to me. Any help would be awsome...

Murf

Here's my advice. Keep in mind I'm anything but an expert!

1. There's no 'G' in Cummins. some folks 'round here would string you up in the nearest tree for that. Me, I'm just tryin' to help ya out!

2. Read "The Sticky" Or at least the parts of it that apply to you at this point and time. There really is some VERY good info in there. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=102027

3. Use the search function, it is your friend and can get you answers almost immeadiately.

4. Ask LOTS of questions! No matter how dumb you think they may be. I'll just about guarantee 15 other people have experienced the same thing you're going through. And on top of that another 40 people will have an answer to something that's been in the back of their mind for years!

5. Welcome aboard! And don't feel like you're the Lone Ranger having a Cummins powered Ferd. There seems to be quite a few nowdays. With BearKiller being the most.....Vocal of the bunch!

Good luck man!

LMG

sorry bout the "G" I did read that in a post(I fell like a edit already) . Thanks for the info so far. If I can figure out the whole pump thing I think I can make something happen. I am used to fabbing some high end turbo setups and would love to apply some skills to this engine. Believe me, I HAVE been searching anything that comes into my mind, for the last week, everyday. I am trying to get everything straight before I jump into this, and screw something up. The truck has an intercooler and a WH1C. The trans behind the motor is a built C6 w/under-overdrive. I do have my doubts about the trans holding together, but if it breaks it does, oh well. Right now I am trying to get the thing to rev a wee bit more, maybe like 200rpm. I want a little more power, and most of all mileage. The wheels are already turning and I am thinking about building a new exhaust, charge piping, and a bigger intercooler. Now all that is great but useless without more fuel. Like I said I read the articles but they are latin to me. Does anyone have pictures?

brainfade

LMG,

The first thing to do, if you don't already have it is to get a pyrometer installed. They're a bit pricy, but you really need it if you are going to add fuel.

There are several pump adjustments that will yield quite a bit of power over the stock settings. These are detailed in the stickies at the top of the page, complete with photos.

The next thing on my list would be the 3200 rpm govenor spring, it's cheap. Part numbers in the sticky. 3200 is about as high as you want to go without upgraded valve springs. Most people would say it's plenty enough.

Next would be 4" exhaust (I like Stan's) and an HTT turbo upgrade. The stage 3 or stage 4 on the cold side, and a 16 cm housing for the hot side only if you have the 'Lagmaster 21' on there now. The housing size should be cast on the scroll, usually on the rear. The stock choices are 18.5 or 21. The 18.5 is fine with an auto, especially if you're adding fuel right away.

An upgraded filter (see BHAF in the sticky) is good.

That's the cheap stuff. Next is injectors, a whole topic in itself, and maybe water/meth. By this stage you'll be looking at head studs and rings to keep the gasket in there, and likely will need to add a waste gated exhaust housing as well.

TOMTOM

Two posts and already EDITed!! Took me a few before my first (and only one) THANKS WANNADIESEL. Look at it this way Yo'll never mispell CUMMINS
again.
WELCOME TO THE DTR SITE!!!!
TOMMY

LMG

Okay, well all the gauges are in there. The wastegate has no line hooked to and this baffled me a bit. Under full throttle I can get 20psi and the EGT never gets to 700(post turbo). I was thinking it might be running out of fuel, I am gonna check the filters today. Thanks for the warm welcome, I'll be hanging around here often...

wannadiesel

Yep, sounds like you need to turn 'er up some more.

edwinsmith

Most definitely you need fuel. You should also get a cheapie boost controller of the bleeder type. Once you add fuel you'll want to limit the maximum boost to something under 40. Probably less if you have the non-map enhanced compressor of the H1C. If you actually have the WH1C which IS map enhanced you can get the boost up to 35 or so before the compressor becomes inefficient. Unless you o-ring the head you'll blow out the headgasket with to much boost though. Wannadiesel is s good source of advise on high boost I think.

If you're into turbo fabbing there is a recent thread on twin turbo setup.

Welcome to the forum.

Edwin

LMG

okay so I go and start checking the settings on the pump, the fuel screw is maxed out, so I open it up and it looks like someone tinkered with the pin as well. I am guessing that it is running out of fuel, so I am going to check filters tomorrow. Also after I put it back together it has been har to start. Oh and on the fuel pump on the side of the block there is a lever, what is it?

LMG

oh and I did follow that link for duals, I could fab that up no problem. For mine I think I will just make it run right before any huge changes. Also I am not sure the Ford C6 behind it will stay among the living very long...

edwinsmith

The lever on the fuel pump is for priming things when you change the fuel filter. There is a vent you loosen on top of the fuel filter and then you work the lever to get the air out. Fill the filter with clean fuel first and then prime it to get the rest of the air out. Fail to do this and you could get air in the injector lines and then it will run rough or fail to start altogether because the air in the lines is compressible you can't get enough pressure to pop the injectors.

Edwin

LMG

Well today it wouldn't start, cracked the and injector and saw bubbles. I am guessing when I took the pump apart something didn't quite seal back up. Bleed a few injectors and it started. Does this sound right?

wannadiesel

You have a leak somewhere that is letting air in.