Pics of Jeep Liberty fuel canister (for aftermarket lift pumps)
12-05-2007, 05:24 PM
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Pics of Jeep Liberty fuel canister (for aftermarket lift pumps)
Just following up on some previous threads, I thought I would post some more pics of the 05-06 Jeep Liberty CRD fuel canister.
The idea behind this (which I'll attempt to prove when I mount it this weekend) is to try and eliminate the fuel sloshing/pick-up problem when your fuel gets below 1/4 tank and you have an aftermarket fuel system.
As many have experienced with the draw straw method which comes with many of the kits, when the fuel gets low and starts sloshing around (especially when coming to a stop) the draw straw has a tendency to get air in it and cause fuel pressure drops which can potentially leave you stranded and/or cause damage to your CP3 from poor lubrication (the loss of fuel temporarily due to the air in the lines).
Also, many kits have you route your return line(s) into the fill neck. I believe that it is important NOT to do this, and instead route your return lines back into the return line portion of this fuel canister. If you'll notice, the canister has a "cup" on the bottom of it that helps retains fuel where it can be easily picked up by the pick-up tube. This cup is the KEY part of preventing the fuel sloshing problem when below 1/4 tank. If your return lines do not feed back into this cup to help keep it full, then it is very likely that your aftermarket pump will drain it out much faster than it can refill, and you'll be back to square 1 with problems.
And lastly, for those of you with 700hp+ high-flow needs, you should be able to simply take a dremel tool and cut away some of the plastic "grid" on the top of the canister, making it a flush even surface, and mount a 1/2" draw straw that pulls from the fuel cup. As stated above though, be sure to route your return lines so that they help keep the cup full of fuel.
Disclaimer: When you get below 1/4" tank, I fully expect that under full throttle you will drain out the fuel cup faster than it can refill. This means you will see a pressure drop and possibly stall your engine. Hopefully though as soon as you let off the throttle the cup will start to refill again and your fuel pressure will come back up. So... no drag racing on a low tank. Under normal driving conditions you should never have a problem with sloshing again (assuming this all works as intended).
Now on to the pics....
Notes about the pics:
1) The output line connector is approx 3/8". So is the tube itself. Should be good for 600+hp depending on your pump.
2) The return line connector is approx 5/16"
3) Both connectors use the same Dorman fittings that your stock setup did. If you need new Dorman fittings, Glacier Diesel carries them and of course your local Dodge dealership. Remember they are two different sizes.
4) The part number for the Jeep fuel canister is 5140832AB and was $92.00
And for whether or not this actually works as anticipated? Stay tuned...I hope to install it this weekend and will report back.
Questions?
btw, thanks to GMCTD for the idea!!!
.
The idea behind this (which I'll attempt to prove when I mount it this weekend) is to try and eliminate the fuel sloshing/pick-up problem when your fuel gets below 1/4 tank and you have an aftermarket fuel system.
As many have experienced with the draw straw method which comes with many of the kits, when the fuel gets low and starts sloshing around (especially when coming to a stop) the draw straw has a tendency to get air in it and cause fuel pressure drops which can potentially leave you stranded and/or cause damage to your CP3 from poor lubrication (the loss of fuel temporarily due to the air in the lines).
Also, many kits have you route your return line(s) into the fill neck. I believe that it is important NOT to do this, and instead route your return lines back into the return line portion of this fuel canister. If you'll notice, the canister has a "cup" on the bottom of it that helps retains fuel where it can be easily picked up by the pick-up tube. This cup is the KEY part of preventing the fuel sloshing problem when below 1/4 tank. If your return lines do not feed back into this cup to help keep it full, then it is very likely that your aftermarket pump will drain it out much faster than it can refill, and you'll be back to square 1 with problems.
And lastly, for those of you with 700hp+ high-flow needs, you should be able to simply take a dremel tool and cut away some of the plastic "grid" on the top of the canister, making it a flush even surface, and mount a 1/2" draw straw that pulls from the fuel cup. As stated above though, be sure to route your return lines so that they help keep the cup full of fuel.
Disclaimer: When you get below 1/4" tank, I fully expect that under full throttle you will drain out the fuel cup faster than it can refill. This means you will see a pressure drop and possibly stall your engine. Hopefully though as soon as you let off the throttle the cup will start to refill again and your fuel pressure will come back up. So... no drag racing on a low tank. Under normal driving conditions you should never have a problem with sloshing again (assuming this all works as intended).
Now on to the pics....
Notes about the pics:
1) The output line connector is approx 3/8". So is the tube itself. Should be good for 600+hp depending on your pump.
2) The return line connector is approx 5/16"
3) Both connectors use the same Dorman fittings that your stock setup did. If you need new Dorman fittings, Glacier Diesel carries them and of course your local Dodge dealership. Remember they are two different sizes.
4) The part number for the Jeep fuel canister is 5140832AB and was $92.00
And for whether or not this actually works as anticipated? Stay tuned...I hope to install it this weekend and will report back.
Questions?
btw, thanks to GMCTD for the idea!!!
.
12-05-2007, 05:29 PM
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Curious, are the brownish colored corrugated looking tubes just to support the structure or does something flow through them?
Is that some kind of connection at the bottom of the return tube? Looks like there is a stub out with a cap on it.
Is that some kind of connection at the bottom of the return tube? Looks like there is a stub out with a cap on it.
12-05-2007, 05:38 PM
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yeah the brownish colored tubes are just support posts. I don't think they do anything.
on the bottom of the return line, yes, thats a very important part. (Good eye by the way). As fuel is returned into the tank, it makes its way through that connection on the bottom and opens a little flapper to let fuel in from the bottom part of the cup. The flapper lets fuel in, but won't let it out...to help keep the cup replenished.
I think if you route your return lines somewhere else (i.e. the fill neck or something), you'll not only still have the sloshing problem, but fuel won't be able to get in through the flapper valve. So not to harp on it, but using the return line connector on this setup is very important.
on the bottom of the return line, yes, thats a very important part. (Good eye by the way). As fuel is returned into the tank, it makes its way through that connection on the bottom and opens a little flapper to let fuel in from the bottom part of the cup. The flapper lets fuel in, but won't let it out...to help keep the cup replenished.
I think if you route your return lines somewhere else (i.e. the fill neck or something), you'll not only still have the sloshing problem, but fuel won't be able to get in through the flapper valve. So not to harp on it, but using the return line connector on this setup is very important.
12-05-2007, 07:11 PM
#6
is there any reason not to put the FASS or similar pickup down through the unit and into the basket? Seems like it would work and probably fix the fuel starve issue some folks are having.
12-05-2007, 08:10 PM
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i don't see any issues doing that but I also don't think you'd need to unless you were actually burning that much fuel (i'm guessing over 500hp at least).
Whatever you don't actually burn will just get recirculated through the return lines and back into the cup.
Whatever you don't actually burn will just get recirculated through the return lines and back into the cup.
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12-06-2007, 09:11 AM
#11
seems real close...the can/basket fill the same way...so for me I may just try installing my 1/2" pickup tube inside the can with the intank and then refill in with return fuel...but the intank set up has some check valves I think??? so it may not work as well as this canister/basket??????
12-06-2007, 10:13 AM
#13
have you had any problems with this???
12-06-2007, 10:22 AM
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Nope...do it all the time. I put the return tee as low as accessable just in case.
Heck...I have gravety feed from by aux tank into main through the vent line, nozzle filling through the filler tube and had the truck running all at the same time....no worries...lol.
Heck...I have gravety feed from by aux tank into main through the vent line, nozzle filling through the filler tube and had the truck running all at the same time....no worries...lol.
12-06-2007, 10:55 AM
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Most of the return fuel in a setup like this has not been through the engine or cp3 so I dont think fuel temp would be an issue. There is very little return fuel from the cp3 and injectors on these trucks.