12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

You need to retime your 12 Valve!!!!

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Old 03-27-2006, 01:32 PM
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You need to retime your 12 Valve!!!!

I retimed my 12 valve this last Saturday, all I can say is if you have not done this----You NEED to. My truck ran pretty well, made some good power, but now----HOLY COW. From a dead stop you roll into it hard, once the tach hits 2000 RPM's my big 305's start to scream as they loose traction on DRY roads!! Awsome mod, I love it. I set my timing at about 16.75*.
Old 03-27-2006, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Mcmopar
I retimed my 12 valve this last Saturday, once the tach hits 2000 RPM's my big 305's start to scream as they loose traction on DRY roads!! Awsome mod, I love it. I set my timing at about 16.75*.
New Trans soon to follow...
Old 03-27-2006, 02:25 PM
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Yup,

It's been in the works, I have been too busy doing other peoples trannies lately!!
Old 03-27-2006, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mcmopar
I retimed my 12 valve this last Saturday, all I can say is if you have not done this----You NEED to. My truck ran pretty well, made some good power, but now----HOLY COW. From a dead stop you roll into it hard, once the tach hits 2000 RPM's my big 305's start to scream as they loose traction on DRY roads!! Awsome mod, I love it. I set my timing at about 16.75*.

Got mine at 16.5

hate the low end loss, but love the top end gain, nothing a set of 370s wont fix...

Rick
Old 03-27-2006, 06:02 PM
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Took my 95 to 16.25 and the bottom end feels stronger. Took her to the Bristol race this weekend and got 19-20 MPG running 70-75 MPH. Thats up from 17.5 MPG she did stock.
Old 03-27-2006, 11:16 PM
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Just curious, How long did it take from start to finish? -Tim
Old 03-28-2006, 05:31 AM
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This was my first time and it took me about 3 hours to do the job. I could see getting it down to under an hour with a little practice. Definatly have the directions ready and figure out the dial indicator in advance. I bought the snap on DV adapter but had problems making it work with my dial indicator. The hole was to big in the adapter. I ended up putting an old door pin bushing between the adapter and the dial indicator. Not a bad deal just takes a little patience. Go for it.
Old 03-29-2006, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim9712v
Just curious, How long did it take from start to finish? -Tim
If Mcmopar had been working with a little less addled helper it would have took alot less time (pun intended)

If you can keep the proper "which-way-to-turn-the-barring-tool" in mind it really does not take that long. After you have watched/helped do it once it really only takes about a hour start to finish the second time. The most aggravating thing is getting the #1 fuel line loose and out of the way. Second most aggravating (unless you have a real long dial indicator extension) is getting the dial indicator base/arms setup to be able to determine TDC properly.

I did mine some time ago using the dropped valve method but can now say I would recommend popping the injector and dialing the top of the piston directly.

For the improvement in power and drivability setting the timing is a no-brainer.

Now if I could just talk the CFO into a set of better injectors to replace those obviously wore out ones in the truck now................
Old 03-29-2006, 08:53 AM
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Yes, Thanks a million-you need some 370's to help the 2000RPM "pull"
Just convince the wife "she" needs that brown truck and you can get some "goodies" for yours!!

What's new? It was nice shooting the bull with you!!
Old 03-29-2006, 10:25 AM
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i have timed more than a few trucks and i have found that some seem much stronger and others don't seem to notice the differance. my wifes 98 picked up some power when i put it at 17, my dually felt the same when i took it to 16. but i did feel a differance when i took it to 20.
Old 03-29-2006, 10:38 AM
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20* wow, what is considered "safe" with a stock headgasket and bolts? 18* or so??
Old 03-29-2006, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Mcmopar
20* wow, what is considered "safe" with a stock headgasket and bolts? 18* or so??

From what ive read, learned and understood

anything above 18 is pushin it with a stock gasket...

Rick
Old 03-30-2006, 07:05 AM
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Thanks for the write up. I am still contemplating trying to find someone to help me or buy a barring tool and a delivery valve socket and doing it myself?? I know that pdr sells delivery sockets, but whare or what is the best for a barring tool?

thanks
Old 03-30-2006, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by SHARPMACHINE
Thanks for the write up. I am still contemplating trying to find someone to help me or buy a barring tool and a delivery valve socket and doing it myself?? I know that pdr sells delivery sockets, but whare or what is the best for a barring tool?

thanks

I got one from Snap On. It was expensive- but, most tools are.
It's on this page...

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...e=snapon-store

by the way, snap also makes alot of cummins timing related tools...

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...e=snapon-store
Old 03-30-2006, 09:19 AM
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i got my barring tool from cummins for 30 bucks or so. and 20 is considered a lot of timing here on the board. but it is not that high in many folks minds. i know many that are 24 plus on timing. heck the 370 marine motor used 22 degrees stock. if you can keep the low end fuel out of the motor and build little boost till 2k 20 should be fine.


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