Since i got my buddies plate outts his 95 and ground it to a 100 i can roll about 1400 egts. Well i want to put a 4k governor kit on it and from what i hear egts will be through the roof. Is this true? Right now i would like to advance it to 15.5, is this a good spot without injectors and will i notice an egt loss. Where can i find out how to advance the pump, i have a buddy who is going to do it but i would like to know what he is doing.

My truck has a banks stinger plus kit, 100 plate slid forward, and theafc turned all the way up.

 

yes advancing ur timing will lower egts and even improve ur mpg...

 

okay good. but what about my other questins?

 

to advance ur timing:

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm

adding a 4k gsk wont necessarily take ur egts through the roof...ur plate will and ur right foot will....ur egts should be much better with 15.5 timing...thats usually the nice medium...if ur egts are still insane then u'll have to slide the plate back a bit...u may not even need to have ur afc that much forward now that u have a 100 plate either

 

yes but i pull a trailor that weighs 18k and when that turbo spools under a load the egts will climb and it will be even wores with the new plat. I am hoping that with a timing advance i can get back to the egts i had before the with the stock plate forward and afc turned up. About how much drop do u think i can expect. I would like to see them only be able to get as high as 1200 since they can run all day at 1350. i like to have a safty cushion.

 

ive heard of guys getting massive drops in egts after timing advances depending on where where it slipped to...it will drop quite a bit definitely

by the way it would really help if u filled out ur signature and the mods u have done

 

the 4ks wont make your egts higher at a given rpm. but youl have the ability to fuel at higher rpm, and the turbo wont be able to suply the air. I would go higher than 15 myself. But towing heavy and a 100 plate will require you to watch egts. if you want a tow rig run a 10. or run the 100 and watch egts.

 

how do i fill out mu sig?

I ment run 100 cause 1250 is max.

 

The timing advance REALLY helped my EGT's. My egt's were always fine before the GSK, and then when i added that, they could get hot quick..Advanced the timing to 16,* and she runs much cooler at WOT now, and gets better mileage.

Eric

 

You could do two things which helped mine when I did what you're doing. Roll back the afc a little, and make a boost controller. Simply a needle valve on a tee, to bleed off some of the pressure to the wastegate, so it will stay closed longer. More boost=lower egt's.

 

Racer9 so basically i let my boost control leak at the T and it will lower egt's cause of the prolonged boost?

Is the tsb info at genos really the best timing instructions out there or are there better ones? And is it how will i know where the sweet spot is with my timing without doing it over and over again?


Rick

 

If you are pulling a heavy trailer try to target 15.5 as your ideal. The way these are built you can be plus or minus two degrees, so it may take a couple of tries to get it right. If you are really judicious with the throttle at starting a load, you can go as high as 17 with a load, but if you nail it from a stop you will lift your head from excessive cylinder pressure.

I am not fond of the 4,000 GSK, as it can launch your motor if you actually let it rev up above 3,600 without an adequate load. For RV or trailer pulling I would stick with the 3,000 GSK.

I presume you have a standard transmission. So, regarding the star wheel just get the TST AFC kit and use the medium spring if you pull a heavy load frequently, or use the light spring if you only occasionally pull a heavy load. In the mean time move your AFC housing fully forward in the elongated bolt slots. Be aware that by 2007 visable smoke on start up will be illegal in all 50 states, so take that into your decision process.

As far as running extended periods at 1,350 degrees F, do not do that unless you know for sure your piston coolers in the lower end of the engine are in excellent condition, and you use synthetic oil. The pistons themselves begin melting at 1,200 degrees, and without adequate cooling oil they will fail in a hurry. The thing with a good synthetic, the bottoms of the pistons will exceed the temperature at which conventional oils start to coke. The coke then drops off the piston and plugs your piston oilers, and that gets expensive.

 

RCW what do you mean by "launch your motor."

 

Heres a thread, with pics on what I did. Especially look for Cummins Express reply's. http://dieselram.com/cgi-bin/ultimat...c;f=3;t=002284

 

But what do you mean by launching the motor????