oldblues, sorry work has been taking all my time. I have used Timken and NAPA. The Timkens have lasted the longest and cosidering I brought home 16 cords of wood in 2 weekends before they failed that was probably the last straw for them. In order to get in to the wood I was in 4Lo all 4's chained and had to back up a 30 degree + slope about 600' working over 1' stumps and 1'-2' rocks. By the time it was all said and done, both rockers scrapped up, tailpipe bent into an interesting angle and coffee down the defrost when my cup slide/bounced from the cupholder onto the dash.

 

i am calling up EMS tomm and ordering a set an having them overnighted to me tomm.

thanks for the info on them!!!!

 

something is not right... no one goes thru 5 wheel bearings in a row without a reason...

 

That's my thought 2500 but I've replaced almost everything and had an alignment done. I haven't messed with the ball joints, they were done at about 120K, before I bought the truck and they're tight. The tie rod end is also solid with no play, I tried to get it to do something with a pair of 3' channel locks but, rock solid. New rotor, caliper, pads and u-joint. The only thing I haven't replaced and can't test is the brake line, I'm going to do that when I put the EMS kit in. I ran a shop for 7 years and have never had this much of a headache over something that should be very straightforeward and simple.

 

wheel bearings typically go 100k+ miles... I'd be calling the wheel brg mfg to complaint.... and hopefully find help as to why they are failing

 

2500, that had crossed my mind but I'm have wheel bearings from 2 different manufacturers fail which is still telling me there's something wrong with the truck, I just can't figure out what. I do know the left side (drivers) has had the grease boiled out every time which says overheating but I have an IR thermometer and have been checking them when I stop and the drivers side consistently runs about 120 degrees vs pass side runs about 105-110. I don't see how a variance of +/- 10 degrees could cause the failure. When I've done a post mortem on the bearing the grease seal which has a plastic ring surrounding the rubber seal has been seperated from the bearing housing and everything is dry with flat spots worn into the bearings. Now I've been at this long enough to know how to do it, I pull everything off then wipe all surfaces down with degreaser including the stub axle and the surface where the seal rides then put a VERY thin film of grease onto the seal surface so as not to tear it when I slide it on then assemble making sure everything goes togethor smoothly with no persuasion. I'm at a total loss.