Wheel bearing, yet again.
#1
Wheel bearing, yet again.
14 months, 5 drivers side front bearings. Replaced the caliper and it worked better for a while but jacked it up this morning after hearing the telltale clunk and there's about 2" of play. Gonna put a new brake line on with the 6th bearing and see how that goes. If this one fails there may be a '96 12V 5spd for sale and another Scout II in it's place.
#2
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Used to be missoula, montana: Now in Sonoma County California
buy a spindle and manual hub conversion kit you wont regret it and for your year truck its cheaper than the later models. actually i believe that your year its possible to buy the ford spindles and hub/rotor combo and outer shaft and drill the spindles for the four bolt patter and go. but before you start buying parts there are several threads on here about guys who did it at home and the guys who used kits like ems offroad http://www.emsoffroad.com/products/hubconvert.htm
if that phone number doesnt work its because they moved
if that phone number doesnt work its because they moved
#5
bearings
So, i just did front brakes on my 95, and now i have the "clunk" does this mean my bearings are going? i assume with this thread that this is a common problem? I don't really want manual hubs, after getting out of my last truck for 12 years to lock/unlock, i kinda like the auto hubs! Anyway, what are the options you all have found?
#6
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Used to be missoula, montana: Now in Sonoma County California
So, i just did front brakes on my 95, and now i have the "clunk" does this mean my bearings are going? i assume with this thread that this is a common problem? I don't really want manual hubs, after getting out of my last truck for 12 years to lock/unlock, i kinda like the auto hubs! Anyway, what are the options you all have found?
Dodge's system basically incorporates the idea of drive flanges. therefor your front end is spinning all the time. if you like it spinning all the time like it currently does lock the hubs and dont think about it. what you do gain with hubs is a spindle and servicable bearing system.
your choice
stock weak bearing design with no spindle nor a servicable bearing, front end turning all the time so you have the ability to pull the 4x4 lever and have 4x4 on demand
Or
proven servicable bearing design with a spindle. ability to choose if the front end is turning all the time and if you want to have the ability to pull the 4x4 lever and have 4x4 on demand lock your hubs and never unlock them. or install a set of auto lock hubs like Blue oval used from 94-97 on their dana 60's, those hubs should interchange.
Peace of mind or ticking time bomb. which would you like
#7
The clunk does not always mean bearings. My front end "clunks" have been:
track bar
worn out shock bushing
5 wheel bearings
loose plow mount
Jack it up and see if you have any play in the wheel, grab the top of the wheel and see if you can move it L to R. If not, your good. If you can, your screwed just as I have been and presently am.
track bar
worn out shock bushing
5 wheel bearings
loose plow mount
Jack it up and see if you have any play in the wheel, grab the top of the wheel and see if you can move it L to R. If not, your good. If you can, your screwed just as I have been and presently am.
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#8
if u want stock replacements i can get them for $145 each. i put them on my truck n have 100,000 miles n no problems. n those miles were put on in a 12 month period.
me personally will be going with the manual hubs next. very easy to service. wow it takes about 30 seconds to lock n unlock.
me personally will be going with the manual hubs next. very easy to service. wow it takes about 30 seconds to lock n unlock.
#9
I'll be going EMS, I put on about 30K per year and about 15K is either pulling a 16' dovetail loaded with wood + 3/4T of wood in the bed or just the bed full to the top of the cab, plowing our roads with all 4's chained in 4Lo or pulling our 800# (empty) road drag around in 4Lo. So needless to say there's alot of weight and torque put through the front end.
#12
hubs
Well, i did some thinking, and i had JUST pulled a friends 18k# trailer down a major grade.... took me a few minutes to dial the brakes...and i apparentley cooked the bearings out of grease... i'm haveing a drivers side hub and rotor installed in the morning (shwabs..) so i can go work on my cabin.
I love the idea of serviceable bearings, i have them on my chev, just redid them for the 12thteen time in as many years... 38's on a dana 44, no locker, easy on the throttle.....,
But, my weekend trips involve a road that may or may not need 4hi, or low, or chains, or winch , or skidder, cat, etc... depending on day...BUT getting out gets old, especially at 7pm friday, in sept after a long weeks work.. I have off road toys, i want some comfort in my daily driver..
Some one make a kit with all the good stuff, and tell me WHY the bearing fail... mine were MY FAULT!!!
Anyone else care to explain why their's did??
I love the idea of serviceable bearings, i have them on my chev, just redid them for the 12thteen time in as many years... 38's on a dana 44, no locker, easy on the throttle.....,
But, my weekend trips involve a road that may or may not need 4hi, or low, or chains, or winch , or skidder, cat, etc... depending on day...BUT getting out gets old, especially at 7pm friday, in sept after a long weeks work.. I have off road toys, i want some comfort in my daily driver..
Some one make a kit with all the good stuff, and tell me WHY the bearing fail... mine were MY FAULT!!!
Anyone else care to explain why their's did??
#14
ha
Well, it turns out the brake pad had broken the spring thingy holding it, my bearings are fine! Saved $250 vs new hub and rotor, anyone need three front brake pads? If someone can come up with a rebuildable bearing with auto hubs, i'll still buy them!