i just did a cummins swap in to my 96 chevy crew cab and need more hp.
i used 94 12 valve 175 hp it 4'' exhaust a big k&n a 400hp sbc pyro and boost gage.i had a 02 dodge that made 350 rwhp thats what i am going for with the 12 valve . what do you guy think i need to do?

 

I'm interested in this also. With my current mods, a stock '04 CR at 325hp can't catch me up to 100mph where I run out of rpm's. So I'm guessing I'm in the 275-300hp range but I really don't know... I also started with a 180 pump although again I'm not sure exactly how much difference there is between the two...

 

Look at my sig. I have around 350 hp. Along with that I have 225 hp injectors from a stick shift 97 truck. I also have a 4 in. exhaust now with no cat and I timed it to 15 1/2 degrees . Just so you know I feel it ran a little better with the 3 inch exhaust and high flow muffler than it does now. It is a fact that you really do not need a 4 in. exhaust till you reach 400 hp. I have more turbo lag with the 4 in. than I had with the 3 in. I will say that the larger exhaust did lower egt's about 100 degrees and My boost pressure raise a couple of pounds. I run 36 psi boost with this setup. The boost mods came with my fuel plate.
The 10 plate works very well with an automtic trans. But it could be different if you are using the GM trans behind your engine.

 

Sooo... I need to repaint to black and get a saddle tan interior? J/k
What kind of boost are your running? I must be in the 300hp range then. What's a Scotty 2?

 

I was editing my post while you answered. Some of you questions are answered there. The Scotty 2 is an intake system. I have had it for about 10 years so I do not know if they still make it. It draws air from the cowl area near the right side wiper.

 

I just realized I need to fix my sig! I have a 100 plate, not a 10 plate. haha Anyways, are your HP numbers at the wheels? Have you dyno'd it?

 

chevy and dodge ues the same nv4500 trans

 

Oh you have a stick. I would say not to use a 10 plate then. I am not familier with the 100 plate so I do not know how much hp that plate will add. I have not dynoed my truck. Im sure this next sentence will open up a can of worms but here goes anyway. With a stock turbo you can fairly closely determined your hp by your boost pressure. Now that only works to about 38-40 lbs boost because the stock turbo will not produce more power over about 40 lbs because it is then out of its design peramaters. If you have a stock turbo and you are pushing more than 40 lbs all you are making is heat as the intake air super heats it expands and the boost pressure raises but you are actually pushing less air.

 

im gonna interject a 4k gsk in these mods. it does wonders for the throttle. turns a correctly tuned ram into a 4x4 rocket! cousin has a 97 auto with 5x14 inj and a 4k gsk and OMG 60mph comes up FAST!! running 40lbs out of an hx35

 

The bottom line is there are many ways to get there but none of them are going to cost a lot or involve anything major inside the engine. The first thing you need to do is use the cpl tag on the engine to determine what hp and injection pump you have. Then go to a site that has the fuel plate data for the cpl number to determine which one you want to buy. You need to take into account what you will be doing with your truck also. Some fuel plates poduce a lot of heat and will not work well if you pull a lot of weight. If you have the wrong plate you will constantly be taking your foot off the throttle to keep your egt's in check. If your not going to tow then you can use an aggresive fuel plate and make big hp very cheaply but the truck will be almost useless to tow any kind of load. So choose wisely, grasshopper. I tow a 12000 lb 5th wheel a lot plus I haul around a backhoe and a skid loader a lot and that is why I built mine the way it is. The only time I have ever had to take my foot off the throttle to keep my egt's in check was when my fuel filter was almost pluged and I was pulling my 5th wheel, I got a load of dirty fuel and my filter pluged about 20 min. later. I had about 75 miles to go and by the time I got to where I was going I could only do 45 mph and had to feather the throttle to keep the egt's down.

 

Don't you know black is the fastest color . Plus no one can see you coming!

 

One more thing, In my opinion a fuel pressure gauge is a madatory mod to have for any cummins engine. It will save you a lot of time and money when you have a problem. Don't forget to put a needle valve between the fuel port and your sender or you will have problems with your gauge or you will need a liquid filled gauge one or the other.

 

The plate does not control egt's. It is simply a stop for the gov arm to follow, based on RPM and current throttle position (this is ignoring the AFC). There really is no difference between you lifting your foot off the pedal to decrease EGT or the governor following the profile of the plate. This is only really an issue at higher boost anyhow, since at low boost, the gov arm will be contacting the AFC foot, and not the profile of the plate.

 

Hey Tate, I just wanted to clarify your post a wee bit:
The plate's purpose is not to control EGT's, but rather to control fuel quantity. But! - EGT is directly proportional to fuel quantity and air quantity. Sooo..... in a round about way, the plate actually does have a lot of control over EGT's, especially on a truck equipped with a stock turbo. There are only two ways to decrease EGT's - Less fuel or More/Cooler air.....

 

You are correct and so is 9812vram. Where do you think your boost will be when your pulling a load up a hill or taking off from a stop light with load? If you like having to be carfull and have one eye on the egt's all the time then fine, go for it. It only takes a minute or two of forgetfulness and your pistons will be goo.