mr T

before the heat gets here i wanna change the fluid...couple questions...how do i get the most fluid possible out of there? and....whats the grabbiest/firmest fluid i should put in?

i dont tow and i dont use lockup switches and i dont have shudder issues....i do have 6 liters of mercon/dexron 3 sitting in the garage unopened can i use that?

i also heard ford type F is pretty grabby...but will that work in mine?

mr T

im hearing that a good way of doing it is to undo a bolt that holds the valvebody and drop the VB about 1/2 an inch and u can get alot more fluid out?...what are the fav fluids out there right now?

NHDiesel

Use ONLY Mopar ATF +4 or better (as long as its ONLY Mopar fluid!!!) I used to use any name-brand fluid that was recomended by the owner's manual, and thats fine for most vehicles. But Chrysler automatics use different friction materials, and other fluids just don't cut it. The only reason that they allow other fluids is because, by law, if they specify that only THEIR fluid can be used, then they need to supply that fluid free of charge. Sounds strange...but thats the truth. I was a Dodge tech and their autos are very picky about fluid.

For the best change, for example if you bought a used vehicle and don't know the history of the fluid/filter changes, is to have the system flushed. Go to a Dodge dealer and have them flush it. They hook it up to a machine that pumps ALl of the old fluid out while pumping in new fluid. Don't bother with unbolting the valve body...you only get a very little bit of extra fluid. The system in a typical automatic vehicle holds around 11 quarts. During a standard drain and filter change, about 4 quarts gets changed. You might get another 1/2 qt. by dropping the VB, but thats not enough to worry about. And you take a chance on ripping the gasket, which requires completely removing the VB to replace. Not a big deal, but hardly worth 1/2 quart of fluid. The flush isn't cheap, but its WELL worth it compared to a new transmission.

One last thing- don't EVER take your truck to an independent shop to have the fluid changed. Even if you specify Mopar fluid, they hardly ever go to the extra cost of using it, so you end up with whatever they have on hand. If you don't want to drop the bucks to have the dealer do it, then do it yourself, as long as you make sure you use Mopar fluid. As a cheap person by nature, I hate spending $4 a quart on the stuff, but I do it because I have seen the results of using the wrong fluid.

Jim

infidel

Mopar ATF +4 is a Chrysler only item and a total rip-off.
+4 was never required for any of the 12 valve trannies.
I've been using Dexron III for over 225k as recommended by one of the more popular diesel tranny shops (DDT) without a problem. If the Dex is too grabby for you add a tube or two of Lube-Gard.
I personally like my shifts to be jerky rather than slushy.

mr T

i appreciate what ur saying Jim...thanx for the concern im fully aware of the atf+4 propaganda...i know what u mean though...Bill i know uv been running for D/M 3 for a long time with the lube guard...i definitely want somehting grabby....is it true that type F is the grabbiest u can get? but it doesnt have the detergent capabilities and a couple other substances that are needed in more modern trannies? fill me in.....the grabbier fluid i can get away with the better

NHDiesel

Believe what you want...but I have been on the wrong end of several Chrysler transmission replacements because the wrong fluid was used. I'm probably the most skeptical person you'll ever find, and one of the cheapest ones...and I still use +4 in any newer Dodge vehicle. I even have a Grand Cherokee that I bought with a bad transmission. Talking with the sellers, it went bad a few weeks after their local mechanic changed the fluid and filter. I towed it home, changed the fluid and filter and poured in +4. The vehicle we had to push onto the trailer drove another 600+ miles after putting in the proper fluid, but by that time the damage was done and it needed to be changed...but at least it gave me time to find a replacement transmission.

And not to start a flame war...I'm sure you got your information from someone you thought was knowledgable...but what exactly is your, or their, qualifications? Here are a few of mine:
-Degree in Automotive Technology
-ASE Certified Master Engine Machinist
-2 tests away from being an ASE Master Tech (just haven't had the time to drive down for tests that are only twice a year)
-Chrysler certified for Automatic Transmission diagnostic & repair

I don't own stock in Mopar...and I think charging $4 a quart is pure B.S. But as long as thats the only fluid that will work in my transmission, I'll use it. Transmissions are expensive, and I have better things to do than pulling one out to rebuild it. Decide for yourself if its worth taking a chance on your transmission just to save a few bucks.

Jim

infidel

Jim, ATF+4 wasn't even introduced till May 2000.
Are you saying that every tranny made before then was running on the wrong fluid until they invented it?
Even ATF+3 wasn't introduced till 1997

NHDiesel

My point was to run Mopar fluid...and for the most part, +4 is backwards compatable. So if it was designed for +3, you can generally run +4. There were a very few exceptions though. And Mopar DID have their own fluid back before +3 came out, but because the fluids are backwards compatible, they fazed out the older fluids. In '96 the recomended fluid was Mopar ATF Plus (type 7176). You can use +3 without a problem in that transmission.

Jim

Stamey

Amsoil Universal ATF. It meets or exceeds EVERYBODY's specs, including the goofy things Dodge does. If your tranny comes apart because of their ATF they'll buy it.

Chris

mr T

cool cool i'll look into that...im however trying to get the info on the grabbiest fluid that still has all the added ingredients i need....

Hemlockusa

++++++AMSOIL """SYNTHETIC""" UNIVERSAL AUTO TRANS FLUID . Exceeds all requirements. A little costly at first - but a few bucks at the start save's in the END. Trans - will run cooler with the synthetic!!!!!
If you goto the WWW.amsoil.com web site they have an excellent down load printout on a complete FLUID change,
Fist drop the pan and drain the four quarts of old that are in there. replace the filter and gasket and replace the pan.

Add 4 quarts of the new synthetic down the tube. Then get a ""FRIEND"" - The next step is to unscrew both the lines to your transmission cooler, as you don;t know which is pressure and which is suction. put both lines in a CATCH BUCKET!!!!
Start the engine and leave in neutral. As the tranny fluid is draining have your """FRIEND""" add the NEW SYNTHETIC down the tube.
I believe you would take 13 more quarts. Do this slowly as the old is draining from the trans cooler lines...

Thats the basic's - but go to the site and down load your capacitys and directions from them...

When your on the road and the going is really hot - You will be **** happy you have the advantage of this SYNTHETIC.. Check out their synthetic for the engine and diffential..

I mean when you can lay a torch on the stuff and it won't catch on fire =- you really have something.

It's heat the TRANNY KILLER??

NO I DON'T SELL THE STUFF.

Later John