Wanting 700 hp and 1400 lb of torque....
10-03-2005, 11:22 AM
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Wanting 700 hp and 1400 lb of torque....
ok the next project thats up my sleave is like a pro street cummins powered rig. im thinkin a 12v is the way to go? im talkin like a four link, bulletproof ford 9 inch with some massive mickey t's. the DOT approved kind because i want this to be a driver. The kinda truck ya can drive to the strip and race, then drive home. lets say i wanted 700 hp or so. 1. how would i get there and 2. what would it cost to build a auto to hold that much power? What would it cost to set up a motor like this? twins, ya know the works. so, lets hear the ideas. 
10-03-2005, 12:20 PM
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call haisley,piers,eep or schied they will tell you what you need. the stock dana 80 should hold the power, but of your worried get some bigger axles for it. a good strong auto will cost about $5000. the motor work will probably be around $10,000
10-03-2005, 02:58 PM
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What these guys said 
....a 9" will fold faster than super man on laundry day! Just the combo of too much torque and too much weight will cause it to fail quickly......they are a great axle for strength to weight ratio in a race car but that is about it. The Dana 80 is crazy-strong and will handle tons of torque in the stock configuration. If that won't hold, 40 spline shafts and side gears can be had if you use a spool or a Detroit if you stay with the D80.
....a 9" will fold faster than super man on laundry day! Just the combo of too much torque and too much weight will cause it to fail quickly......they are a great axle for strength to weight ratio in a race car but that is about it. The Dana 80 is crazy-strong and will handle tons of torque in the stock configuration. If that won't hold, 40 spline shafts and side gears can be had if you use a spool or a Detroit if you stay with the D80.
10-03-2005, 03:06 PM
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I would think if you were gonna go full out and make a pro street drag truck you would call Competition Engineering or a number of other reputable chassis builders.
Also I think Mark Williams would be a good source for a rear axle. Tell them what your planning and I would be surprised if they turned you away. They make rears for almost every pro drag racer out there.
Also I think Mark Williams would be a good source for a rear axle. Tell them what your planning and I would be surprised if they turned you away. They make rears for almost every pro drag racer out there.
10-03-2005, 03:20 PM
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Mark williams is a great option if would like to spend $10k-15k on a 9" rear. 
.....not the way to go if power/performance per $$ is a factor....plus, those insane 9" rears STILL don't have the ultimate torque handling capactiy of a D80.
.....not the way to go if power/performance per $$ is a factor....plus, those insane 9" rears STILL don't have the ultimate torque handling capactiy of a D80.
10-03-2005, 03:31 PM
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Only drawback to the D80 is just the mass of it, just the sheer weight alone is quite substantial. At least the weight would be in the right place. Also since everything inside is so big and heavy you do loose a little power to the rotating mass of it all. I guess that's not that big a deal either when your making 700hp.
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10-03-2005, 03:53 PM
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it would need to be narrowed. which i guess aint that big of a deal. but is a 12v the way to go with this? i dunno much about them. ive got a 24v. so i know more about them. ive heard of plates and gsk and all that good stuff.
10-03-2005, 03:58 PM
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Agreed the difference in mass is large but the difference in strength has to come from somewhere......the additional unsprung weight on a CTD drag truck would be quite beneficial when it comes to launching.....it is not uncommon to see a fast street/strip car pick up an easy 1/10th in 60' times when going from a 9" to a D60 - seen it happen a few times.....and the other difference is the D60 car can drive home in one piece! Sorry, I'm just not sold on the 9".....I have seen them failure in all sorts of configurations, from mild to wild, when used in the wrong applications.
10-03-2005, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by blackdiesel02
it would need to be narrowed. which i guess aint that big of a deal. but is a 12v the way to go with this? i dunno much about them. ive got a 24v. so i know more about them. ive heard of plates and gsk and all that good stuff.
10-03-2005, 04:34 PM
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Definately a 12v. A built auto with all billet shafts and all the goodies is gonna cost upwards of $6000. Your gonna need a big set of twins, somd big injectors, a big plate, 4k gsk kit, head studs, port and polished head, cam, o-ring or fire rings, water/meth, and I think that's about it. Oh yeah, make sure you get a truck that has the 215 pump on it. Those make the most power I'm told. Getting a piers stoopid pump would be even better. Those make gobs of power if you can get the air to burn it all.
10-03-2005, 04:43 PM
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If you decide the Stoopid pump is the way to go, there isn't much point in bothering with the 215 pump since the Stoopid is actually based on a 160 pump. IIRC, the Stoopid was flowing around 800 cc's!!!! 
That will push some BIG sticks!!
That will push some BIG sticks!!
10-03-2005, 07:13 PM
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now were talkin. 
this is sounding good guys. now, for the body. Im not gunna stick the dodge body on it. im thinkin more along the lines of a classic. somethin like my '57 in my gallery, only different. Dont even mention a ford. it aint gunna happen chevy, dodge, etc. somethin old.
