ddestruel

I have played with cam plates and tried some mild turbo changes and injector swaps. But has anybody here played with line boring your exaust manifold or porting the exaust system to lower E temps while increasing power and fuel delivery? How about head work, larger valves. what about ceramic coating your exasut manifold and turbo?<br><br>It always seems that having the power is great but getting it to stick around for awhile when you want it (towing) never happens since she always gets too warm on the E-side. What about changing intakes, or cam shafts. What about ditching your twelve valve engine and installing the twenty four for the better breathing and then installing your old P7100 injector pump, gears and cover w/ custom fuel lines to reach higher stable torque levels? <br>I would like to come up with a way to reach 700-800 ft/lbs rear wheels and be able to hold it on a hill pulling a load and have my e-temps stay stable 1000-1200 on the hot side. I have pounded my brain with this for years, and i keep wanting to think outside the common mindset box. <br><br>To give you a run down at least my set up and i would like to hear your ideas and what you have done.<br><br>I have a 1996 Ford Ext cab SB Yes I said a dirty word. the only thing ford is the body and frame. I have a 1996 cummins 180 HP 12 valve 2nd gen motor under the hood. married to a NV5600 using a custom adapter i have installed a driverside output NP 205 with the large input shaft 93 dodge 205 guts. Power lock posis front and rear with a 35 spline dana 60 front w/ hubs. 3.55 gears and 315/75 R16 BFG TAs. I choose the ford because of the hubs, dual tanks, availiblity of parts and simplicity. plus it was the only truck we could fit a PTO winch into and clear the Drive lines which was important. <br> <br>Anyways the engine is running 13* timing advance @4000' elevation has stock .95 injectors instead of the 300M i had on for a short while (they ran really rough from 1100-1400 even with delivery valves, plus they were too hot on the hills), a 16 cm N/WG turbo housing, 4 inch exhaust and a TST 280 HP cam plate. a 12 1/4 inch three puck clutch from south bend. <br><br>I am considering installing the larger intake side 8.3L HX 40 fan and snail to increase boost but will probably be running the motor too lean? I have a 2000 ford aluminium air to air cooler in front which seems to work fairly effiecient. <br><br>If you can decifer my ramblings have at her, any suggestions and experiences please let me hear them. I just am tired of being told that nothing is possible past what has already been done by the conventional after market. there must be a working combinatin of parts and pices that will yeild the power and still work efficiently with the motor and not too hot on the Eside.<br><br>Dusty

Battering Ram

ATS offers a ceramic coated 3piece higher flowing exhaust manifold. You can port them for higher flow. Several companies do flowed and matched Ported and Polished heads but the cost is usually not worth the gain unless you have an extremly high horsepower level and need more flow. For example 2 grand worth of head work will drop egt's 200 degrees. There are several companies that make cams also. The actual intake is cast with the head so you cant un bolt it and bolt on a higher flow intake, but some companies are experamenting with machining off the intake and drilling and taping the head to bolt on a higher flowing intake. This also allows them to port and polish the intake as well. 800ft/lbs of torque at the rear wheels is easily reached with the 12v engine with the proper mods to cool egt's. All it takes is money. Actually you could probably tow with 1000ft/lbs of torque and not have a heat problem with enough modifications. Advancing the timing to 15* would lower you EGT's a little. The best way in my opinion to get what you are looking for is to install a big turbo (B1, PDR HX55/50) with a free flowing 4in exhaust and free flowing intake. Then all it takes is the fuel to make the power and tranny mods to get it to the ground which it looks like you already have. Install some 370 injectors and a larger cam plate and you will have lots of power and no heat problem.

J.R. Adkins

I suggest twin turbos. Thats the only way to not have a lot of lagg and still have good spooling and low egt's. I have had a set on my truck for 6mo. now and love them. With your fueling level these would be great! <br><br>See Twins Here!<br><br><br>J.R.

dodgeman01

JR what were you running as in twins? I was thinking about going with the stock turbo with a 16 or 18 housing and a Bht3b. I have heard for a few guys that this will work pretty well. And sugestions?<br>Remember I don't want no 800hp truck but 500 or even450 would be nice. maybe a ltiile more down the road.<br>DM01

ddestruel

Thanks guys

So correct me if i am wrong increasing the increased boost pressure lowers the etemps only if the fuel delivery is properly matched and not over fueling.

The ATS exaust manifold sounds interesting. Especially porting it. I have thought about pulling the head off and porting it since we have a flow bench here. If i were to go to the HX40/35 hybrid what should expect is this not enough i realize you suggested the hx50/55. And what about injectors, and the 370M's not cooperating with the 180 hp p7100 pump. the 300M's i had bucked quite a bit. at the low R's. The twins sound awsome but i imagine the cost is somewhat prohibitive or is it? what about over boost problems. i have heard that over 40lbs will result in some problems with head gaskets and the longevity of the motor mainly the rod bearings prematurely wearing out. anythoughts? experiences.

who out there has a tried and true working combination giving them the kind of medium power levels i am thinking of this is kind of one of those wierd aproaches to the equation of building power. most people just pump up thier motor from only one perspective. I like to think it is like the guy who throws a larger carburator on an unprepared motor, one that doesnt breathe right lacks porting, intake or headers ect so he instead suffers from poor mileage, mediocer power and then blames his problems on the carburator when in fact the motor just needed a few other mods to make it all co-operate together.

sorting through these suggestions for the best combination of parts within a reasonible budget that might provide a different avenue than what the masses are following. Like twin turbo and the porting and ported exaust manifold. Different turbos ect. What kind of formulation of information about htese products will be necessary to balance the combining of these products not for maximum power output but a balanced smooth power increase. a good comparison might be the difference in approaches between a C&amp;^vy wedge motor builder and Hemi artist. different technology will yeild different results. Be it lower etemps, faster acceleration, more boost, more fuel.

You are right in saying that all it takes is money, but maybe if much of it can be done oyur self like the porting what kind of cost difference is there. What do they do in the head porting, what are you to expect from the larger turbo ups and downs, what kindof fuel delivery is necessary to make it all work together in unison. What about removing the govenor springs will 3000rpms hurt this diesel, valve train, i dont run my cat over 1800.

So i know this is alot im just trying to piece it all together this is much different from building a 400 Big cam. For that you would have used lower compression pistons, teflon coating, exaust porting a larger turbo and then had a pumpshop caliberate the pump to your air to fuel needs can that be done with these motors, is it worth it. or is the platform so close to perfect that it is just a matter of matching these parts perfectly to arrive at your goal.

What kind of price range or budget do you place on this kind of power building 1500-2000 you tell me

Thanks
Dusty

Battering Ram

If you have a flow bench there by all means port and polish the exhaust side and also do a valve grind. But dont expect excelent results. The key of course is air so to get to the power level you are looking for and keeping the EGT's down you will need a large charger. If you can do a cam job yourself you could go for a cam at Piers Diesel Resurch for $575. Cams incrase air flow and spool up time of the turbo. Egt's usually drop between 100-150 degrees. If you didnt have good luck with the 300's you might want to go to an aftermarket injector like DD 2's. There are many different ways you can approach making power. I like the way you are going about it. Also if you are a decent machieist or know one and you weld you could do a twin turbo setup using your current turbo for around $1000.

MnTom

My only suggestion is to call Piers Harry at Piers Diesel Research and discuss it with him.<br>Tom

Sled Puller

JR is right- twin turbos, and your done.<br><br>I have towed with mine, and you have to drive stupid to get egts out of control.<br>Last I towed, I grossed at 15,000, and could run 70mph up hill at 900 degrees, passing the stock appearing 1ton Dodges doing about 30mph, it was a nice hill!

VinDiesel

My $.02-<br><br>You would be amazed at the icrease in air flow chaging to the HX40 compressor housing and pinwheel makes (making a hybrid). However, I thinking you're wanting to go into the 400-450hp range. I'm sure Piers will tell you to go with their HX40. With a 4&quot; all-the-way exhaust and a larger turbine housing, much of the exhaust restriction will be gone. Top it off with the ATS manifold. I just bought mine, and intend on coating it myself with Eastwood high temp coating. You might be surprised, there is not much room to do an extensive amount of porting on it. I may smooth the inside up just a little with emery cloth rolls.<br><br>As you can see in my sig, I've gone nuts and now have a bunch of parts just waiting to go on.<br>Of interest may be the Banks TwinRam. Bolt on intake. Twice the volume at the head, better distribution. May not make much of a difference, but I'm going for just about all I can get without going inside the engine. <br><br>You'll probably want a Scotty II cool air intake. I was talking to Rod, he knows a couple of guys in the 450+ range that never have to let off of it for temps! (http://www.wildcatdiesel.com/)<br><br>Vin

VinDiesel

BTW,<br><br>I'd check that Ford intercooler to make sure it's at least as big as the Dodge unit. If not, consider adapting the Dodge one, or even better get a big honking aftermarket cooler.<br><br>Vin

Sled Puller

If you guys want a high pressure, better flowing intercooler that is a bolt in install, check www.enterpriseengine.com.<br>It is not listed on their site, you have to call.