I am looking around for a 2500 or 3500 to buy. I have to have 4X4, and I am wanting a manual transmission. I have talked to some friends and most say that the automatics are not good at all. I am looking at a 12v truck, not a specific one yet, but I know it will be a 12v. Is an automatic truck good or bad? why? I will most likely do some mods to the engine, as I heal from the purchase of it. I will do some light hauling, but not all the time. Mostly highway and on our farm fields. Should I avoid autos? I want what is best and what will hold me for several years to come. Thanks...

 

If you are going to buy a twelve valve do not go with an automatic, unless you plan on spending a couple grand on the transmission with a new torque converter and valve body. You can buy a Suncoast transmision for about 4K and its bullet proof or you can spend six to a thousand on a southbend for your manuel and get alot further. Go with the 5 speed you will not be sorry

 

I got 170K out of my auto, 70K of which was holding 300 HP. And turning 37" tires. I finally got a new one because I burnt the lock up clutch out of the TC.

The stock trans will hold up fine if you just show it a little love now and then.....

 

If your goin to increase Horsepower with a auto tranny then you'll need to upgrade the tranny.....I prefer a auto tranny with a everyday driver and my tranny has been upgraded to hold 350 HP

Theres pro's and con's to each tranny sometimes a manual just works better for that use......so it becomes a matter of personal choice and price but the manuals have troubles too 5th gear nut coming loose the need to upgrade the clutch for higher horsepower

I really like my auto after the upgrade it shifts better and I no longer worry about burning it up ......I went with a off brand rebuilder that proved to cost 1/2 the price of the Name Brand builders and so far has proved to be reliable for my use.....I don't baby my truck it works hard and pulls heavy loads so I can make a livin

 

There is nothing wrong with the autos used in the 12 valves as long as you don't exceed the hp they were designed for. Even with hp upgrades they will go a long time when combined with sensible driving. My stock trans went 212k before I replaced it with a Suncoast, 205k of that was at over 300 hp.

Stock clutch in my 5 speed only went 15k after upgrades and also lost 5th gear (common problem) at 52k. In the end the manual's upgrades cost about half as much as the autos.

You'll have a lot more luck finding a used auto as more were made with them.

 

So what exactly happens to the manual's 5th gear nut? What do you do to fix this problem? So most would suggest a manual transmission, since it is alot less expensive to fix, in the event that something does fail? Thanks....

 

5th gear falls off.....mine did....on the upside as far as I know the rest of the trans ussually still works just fine. The fix.....a 50$ special nut.....but it "could" fail again.......I put a new main shaft in after seeing the spline problem that causes the repeated failure of the nut. That cost me 500$ which included labor and fluids.

You ll want to do a KDP fix.....90$ or so to pin....and 1-2 hrs.

98's are the ones....to get but really all the 12 valves ar great. 98 12 valves(cause most are 24's) have the same dash and interior as 99 up and you could get the quad cab, with opening rear doors (suicide).

The bad part is a clutch......1200 about for a good one.

 

I prefer '97s the most myself. The '98 is the only 12 valve that may have the infamous 53 block (do search) Pre '98 also has on dash trouble code access, on '98 you need a code reader.

 

I don't know if my auto is original or not, I'm 3rd owner. If it is, it has almost 180k on it. I've owned the truck since 139k. I have only adjusted the bands, replaced the governor pressure solenoid and the pressure sensor and changed the fluid/filter twice on the tranny. If you treat it right, it should last a long time. The tranny itself doesn't seem to be all that bad, but the torque convertor and lock-up clutch leave alot to be desired.

I prefer manual trannys myself, but after driving an 18 wheeler all week, it is nice on the knees with the auto.

 

I had 215,000 on my original auto with no trouble. It was still working OK. I could make it slip if I abused it, but I had to try. I think these autos get a bum rap.

They are certainly as good as the Ford autos.

 

Thanks alot for the replys. So it sounds to me that it is a toss-up in a way. The manuals sound to be better, with the exception of the 5th gear. The autos seem to be alright until around 200k miles or so. I guess that these transmissions are like anything else, if you treat them right, and how they were meant to be treated, they will treat you the same. Thanks again.

 

I will give you some advice. I think that if you buy an automatic trannied truck, you should change the fluid, and filter right after you get it. It will help it in every way, and ensure that it has nice, clean fluid running through it. My auto has been pretty good, but i havenmt had it that long. It has been replaced or rebuilt once by the 2nd owners insurance company, cause he wrecked it, and it burns up the tranny if you tow the truck with it in neutral, which they did . The truck has 165,000 on it, and i think the tranny has about 100k on it, but one way or the other, it does decent. Only problem is that with my fuel plate, it slips the torque converter, and it hangs 3rd gear sometimes, but they seem to be pretty good as far as auto's go for dependability. My next truck will more than likely be a 5spd, but i dont know yet. Hopefully i can get an upgraded TC, and maybe a valve body for this truck, and that may change my mind . Good luck however you come out.

Eric

 

Thanks for the advice. I think that I will try my best to get a manual transmission. When I get a manual, what do you suggest the first thing I should do engine wise before I begin using it regularly? (not mods)

 

I would change all of the rest of the fluids and filters, for the same reason as above.

Check the belt to see if it needs to be replaced. Shallow light cracks in the V grooves are OK as long as the run across, not with the grooves. None on the flat side. Check for shiney (glazed) spots on the belt. Also check the belt tensioner operation and that the bearing is turning free and no wobbling.

Check hoses for unually soft or hard spots, cracks and the like.

If you do wind up w/an auto, make to check the band adjustment while the pan is off from the fluid/filter change.

You will want to install a boost gauge and pyrometer. Also add the tranny temp if auto.

For power updrades-

If auto, a #10 plate. (On mine in stock position, I've yet to hit over 1000* EGTs, pre-turbo.)

Manual w/stock clutch, depending on the OEM stock power, maybe a #11 or 12 plate. May want to also a 3k GSK to help to extend the power band on some of the wide shift spacings.

If you don't want to add a plate right away, but still want a little more power, you can slide the OEM plate forward a little for more power.

BTW, where abouts in IL are you?

 

Another thing to keep in mind, on a 2nd generation truck, 2500 series, the autos came with a Dana 70 rear axle, and the 5 speeds came with a much stronger Dana 80. Not that the 70 is junk, but I've seen a lot more of them blow up. The 80 will take everything you can throw at it.