Transmission lines
04-16-2007 | 12:02 PM
#16
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From: NC
I wish someone would come up with a detailed list of parts ect to do away with all the factory lines. I have had nothing but problems with mine. 1 rubbed through over the years where they rub infront of the pan. Then 2 months later the updated fitting cracked and strated leaking then my new line got a crack in it. I have spent a pretty penny on factory lines that just don't seem reliable.
04-16-2007 | 04:58 PM
#17
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From: Ct.
Hmmm this is exactly my fear I am about to invest in some expensive parts and the last thing I want to happen is have the darn thing spring a leak and ruin everything that I have just invested in! I'm thinking when it's out if I have the time I will have to try to piece somthing together.
04-16-2007 | 07:57 PM
#19
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From: Garrard county, Kentucky
There are threads on here about using hydraulic lines as a replacement. Some don't like the idea but I think it looks like a solid and cheap alternative. Do search see if you can find the pics,my favorite is with the heat exchanger/cooler moved up under the radiator. No hose clamps all threaded connections. Use the reusable type ends and future fixes are very cheap. Junk the check valve, my tranny does'nt miss it at all.
Eric
04-16-2007 | 08:42 PM
#21
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From: Calera, Alabama
I did a lot of research. The first problem is that the old lines have no retrofit options to the new design. The old plastic clips aren't even available, nor are the metal clips that were the fix for awhile. To complicate issues, the female pipe threads in the xmission are NPSM as opposed to NPT (although the McMasters Carr website says that "female NPSM threads will accept male NPT threads", which makes sense since McMaster sells all kinds of fittings with female NPSM threads, but nothing with a male NPSM thread.). Some people on here say that the male NPT stuff won't work on the femail NPSM threads in the xmission, but I can't confirm or dispute this. Another problem is that Dodge does not use a standard 37 degree "AN" type fitting where lines screw together. There is some kind of weird angle on the male "AN" type fittings. Soooooo, between the fear of not wanting to strip out my xmission fittings and the outlaw flare fittings that Dodge uses, I just gave up, bit the bullet and went with all factory repalcement upgrades. Everything from a local dealer was $363 OTD. The only thing that I still don't like about the new setup (other than the price) is that with the new lines, I now have a non-removable check valve (restriction) in the pressure line going from the xmission to the cooler and the OEM line had no valve.
Trans. fittings: 1/4" npt
H. Exchanger: One 3/8" npt and one 1/2" npt
Trans. Cooler: I just used 1/2" hose barbs
I adapted these sizes to 1/2" JIC fittings and used 1/2" diameter hyd. hose. I have a total of less than $100 in this fix, and I over-bought the hose by a bunch.
I did have one problem. The old fittings broke off in the transmission. I think someone had replaced the lines at some time in the past, and there were brass fittings that snapped without much pressure. I had to track down some screw extractors, and they were still very difficult to remove, but I finally got it done.
Brad
04-16-2007 | 09:41 PM
#22
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From: Edmonton, AB
I can't see any reason why going with properly rated hydraulic tubing would be a problem. In all sorts of applications that oil gets quite hot (requires big coolers), and must deal with a load of pressure. I would simply be concerned about making sure the hoses don't rub.
04-17-2007 | 05:47 AM
#23
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From: Ct.
Thank you Brad,this is what I was looking for and for good mesure I believe an external cooler is in order just in case the metal lines are there for extra cooling purposess... Hmm I wonder if your trans fittings are the same as my 95 though???
04-17-2007 | 07:45 AM
#24
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From: Calera, Alabama
I really like how mine turned out. I have 90 degree swivel fittings going into the trans. This makes the hose even easier to route. I put 3/4" hose over my lines to help with the rubbing
.Keep in mind that I have no check valve now, but I've had no problems. Actually, my trans lines had been replaced before and there was no check valve there anyway
.Brad
04-17-2007 | 10:19 AM
#25
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From: Ct.
I don't care about the check valve you just have to make sure you fill the converter before taking off and as far as I'm concerned this should be a practice that all should do before driving away.....
04-17-2007 | 04:49 PM
#26
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From: Derry,N.H.
Here are the parts list sorry I could not scan and send. Any questions PM me Here goes, 2pcs. 52028764-AA fitting 31.45 a piece, 2pcs.118752 connector 4.60 a piece, 1 pcs. oil tube 5011244-AA 121.00, 1 pcs.oil hose 4798875-AC85.75, 1 pcs. 4798876-AC 93.50, 1 pcs.52028674 oil tube 39.25, 1 pcs. 52028673 oil tube 29.35. I"ll try a brief description from memory. The 31.45 fittings go into the oil can bolted to engine block, 4.60 connectors go into transmission, 121.00 is your new long pipe, 93.50 and 85.75 is the new steel and rubber wrap around pipe with temperatue sending hole, 39.25 and 29.35 oil tubes go from your new pipes to oil cooler. There is no kit containing these parts and some dealers don't know what you're talking about. Good news is that its a very good retrofit. No problems in two years. Maybe Infidel can help as he sent me the list. I paid 440.00 on may 2005. Steve
04-17-2007 | 06:49 PM
#28
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From: Northwest, Minnesota USA
The biggest factors for using steel lines is cost & reliability. I just wish that DC would have used some of the cost savings to secure those steel lines with LHA blocks instead of the group hug by p-clamps.
A steel line will outperform a flexible line for flow loss, too.
Does anyone know if the gasser recall kit that replaced the 2 hoses tot he aux (grill) cooler is still available? You got both hoses for less than the list price of a single hose.
A steel line will outperform a flexible line for flow loss, too.
Does anyone know if the gasser recall kit that replaced the 2 hoses tot he aux (grill) cooler is still available? You got both hoses for less than the list price of a single hose.
04-20-2007 | 03:47 PM
#29
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From: Southeastern Michigan
Just thinking out loud here, but another alternative is to use the existing steel lines with their "special fittings" but cut and convert them to accept standard hydraulic hose.
Either cut the fittings off the end of the steel lines leaving a section of say 4-6 inches of stock steel hose and either braizing on fittings at the cut end to accept the hydraulic hose and its fitting or to use 1/2 inch compression fitting to accept the hydraulic hose fittings. Now your still using the correct sized original fittings at the trans and heat exchanger, but it's now conerted to accept standard hydraulic hose.
Yes, there may be an added stress issue but I would think if the new hydraulic hose is supported and secured, it should work out pretty well.
Another option is using some quality hose like aeroquip AQP or similiar, and compression to barbed, or flair the cut pieces of factory steel line to accept the apropriately rated rubber hose.
Like I said, thinking out loud, but don't see why it would not be another viable, affordable option. KD
Either cut the fittings off the end of the steel lines leaving a section of say 4-6 inches of stock steel hose and either braizing on fittings at the cut end to accept the hydraulic hose and its fitting or to use 1/2 inch compression fitting to accept the hydraulic hose fittings. Now your still using the correct sized original fittings at the trans and heat exchanger, but it's now conerted to accept standard hydraulic hose.
Yes, there may be an added stress issue but I would think if the new hydraulic hose is supported and secured, it should work out pretty well.
Another option is using some quality hose like aeroquip AQP or similiar, and compression to barbed, or flair the cut pieces of factory steel line to accept the apropriately rated rubber hose.
Like I said, thinking out loud, but don't see why it would not be another viable, affordable option. KD
04-21-2007 | 12:23 AM
#30
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From: Covington Ohio
Trany cooler lines
Hi
I Recently had a cooler line blow. I called a friend who own's a Trany Shop. He told me to replace my lines with Goodyear Gorilla hose, he said braided hydrolic hose is overkill. I visited my local rubber sales store and purchased 25 feet of 1/2 inch hose and 5 brass 3/8 pipe thread to 1/2 inch barbed fittings, 3/8 inch brass tee and a box of hose clamps to the grand tune of $100. The 2 fitting's that go into the trany were the wrong size so I went to his shop and he gave me a couple, I think they were 1/4 pipe thread. The 2 going into the cooler under the turbo are 3/8 pipe. I used 2 hose clamps per barb.(note the factory uses single hose clamps going into the front cooler on my "95") My friend has done this mod on a fair number of Dodge CTD's With no problem. That said Braided hydrolic hose with crimped swivel fittings would be very nice. He said most of the reason people burn up the trany's on these trucks, in his experince is from cracks in the metal lines leaking fluid and over heating. Mine had a cheak valve, I left it out, no problens so far. So don't pay Dodge $500
I Recently had a cooler line blow. I called a friend who own's a Trany Shop. He told me to replace my lines with Goodyear Gorilla hose, he said braided hydrolic hose is overkill. I visited my local rubber sales store and purchased 25 feet of 1/2 inch hose and 5 brass 3/8 pipe thread to 1/2 inch barbed fittings, 3/8 inch brass tee and a box of hose clamps to the grand tune of $100. The 2 fitting's that go into the trany were the wrong size so I went to his shop and he gave me a couple, I think they were 1/4 pipe thread. The 2 going into the cooler under the turbo are 3/8 pipe. I used 2 hose clamps per barb.(note the factory uses single hose clamps going into the front cooler on my "95") My friend has done this mod on a fair number of Dodge CTD's With no problem. That said Braided hydrolic hose with crimped swivel fittings would be very nice. He said most of the reason people burn up the trany's on these trucks, in his experince is from cracks in the metal lines leaking fluid and over heating. Mine had a cheak valve, I left it out, no problens so far. So don't pay Dodge $500
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