transmission issues
04-16-2007, 09:53 AM
#16
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Just thinking in another direction here. My truck always started shifting "funny" in overdrive when the fuel flow becomes restricted. It would shift early in OD and the engine would "lug". Could this be what you're feeling. You stated in your signature that you replaced your overflow valve and filter. How about the fuel heater screen, gasket and that small 90 degree hose? Hows the fuel pressure from the lift pump? When my fuel system is clean the truck will shift early in OD but will accelerate smoothly. Coasting along at 40+mph and shifting in OD is a bad habit for these early transmissions. Spend the money and replace that TPS, also check the valve lash. I even turned back the starwheel. These engines are extremely sensitive when it comes to fuel flow. Hope this helps
04-16-2007, 10:02 AM
#17
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There are TSBs out for this. The problem is with the computer, most likely not the transmission. Every early 2nd gen Dodge that hasn't had the TSB done will lock up the converter at 42MPH. Eventually dodge realized that this was too low and caused shudder and put issued TSBs for it. The 94 trucks required a new computer to fix the problem with a higher lockup point. The 95 trucks were able to be reprogrammed if I remember correctly. I was quoted by Dodge for about $700 for the updated computer. No thanks, I'll just drive around it!
You could install a 3 way manual lockup switch, that way you could manually lock or unlock the converter, but also return it to it's automatic state. There is lots of good reading on the shudder issue over at dodgeram.org
Here is a link to the TSB
You could install a 3 way manual lockup switch, that way you could manually lock or unlock the converter, but also return it to it's automatic state. There is lots of good reading on the shudder issue over at dodgeram.org
Here is a link to the TSB
The ultimate solution is a driver control problem, not hardware. The driver must be aware of power needs, load, and RPM. Shifting the transmission manually through the gears is required sometimes, and usually with a good load.
04-16-2007, 03:34 PM
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Yes, I do
Do you for sure have atf +4 in your Trans? Also was the friction modifier they gave you in a Black bottle from Lube Gard? Lube Gard also make a Red tube of stuff pretty hard to find but it is I think called shutter stop. It is a pretty good pruduct, I know of a couple people it has helped with shudder probs.
Did you check y our TPS voltage at idle position and on the floor
Did you check y our TPS voltage at idle position and on the floor
04-16-2007, 03:42 PM
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Thanks for the info
Just thinking in another direction here. My truck always started shifting "funny" in overdrive when the fuel flow becomes restricted. It would shift early in OD and the engine would "lug". Could this be what you're feeling. You stated in your signature that you replaced your overflow valve and filter. How about the fuel heater screen, gasket and that small 90 degree hose? Hows the fuel pressure from the lift pump? When my fuel system is clean the truck will shift early in OD but will accelerate smoothly. Coasting along at 40+mph and shifting in OD is a bad habit for these early transmissions. Spend the money and replace that TPS, also check the valve lash. I even turned back the starwheel. These engines are extremely sensitive when it comes to fuel flow. Hope this helps
04-16-2007, 03:50 PM
#21
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Yes, I do
Do you for sure have atf +4 in your Trans? Also was the friction modifier they gave you in a Black bottle from Lube Gard? Lube Gard also make a Red tube of stuff pretty hard to find but it is I think called shutter stop. It is a pretty good pruduct, I know of a couple people it has helped with shudder probs.
Did you check y our TPS voltage at idle position and on the floor
Did you check y our TPS voltage at idle position and on the floor
04-16-2007, 04:00 PM
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Pcm?
Of course, a PCM upgrade is always a good idea, but it will not solve the underlying shudder problem, nor will a lockup switch. The engine, especially a modified engine, simply has too much torque for the transmission to handle. First, the sludge must be cleaned from the valving, then the worn frictions and seals must be replaced. Then, unless the rebuild is an upgrade, power must not be developed below 1700 RPM where line pressure is adequate. The upgraded PCM will not prevent this and shuddering will occur, and another rebuild.
The ultimate solution is a driver control problem, not hardware. The driver must be aware of power needs, load, and RPM. Shifting the transmission manually through the gears is required sometimes, and usually with a good load.
The ultimate solution is a driver control problem, not hardware. The driver must be aware of power needs, load, and RPM. Shifting the transmission manually through the gears is required sometimes, and usually with a good load.
04-16-2007, 08:33 PM
#23
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A truck on a trailer is a pretty good load, so I would shift it manually to keep the RPMs up. After you fix the tranny. And TPS. A PCM upgrade depends on whether you can avoid making power at the low shift points.
04-17-2007, 06:26 AM
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01-05-2008, 12:22 PM
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Do you for sure have atf +4 in your Trans? Also was the friction modifier they gave you in a Black bottle from Lube Gard? Lube Gard also make a Red tube of stuff pretty hard to find but it is I think called shutter stop. It is a pretty good pruduct, I know of a couple people it has helped with shudder probs.
Did you check y our TPS voltage at idle position and on the floor
Did you check y our TPS voltage at idle position and on the floor
05-13-2008, 11:06 AM
#26
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I don't know if you fixed this already, but "shudder" is usually an indication of 1 of 2 things... slippage, or out of balance... I doubt your TC is out of balance, so it's probably slipping... I understand that this is a common problem with the early 2nd gen 12v diesels... My 94 does it a lot... has since I bought it... I had been having problems with the tranny which I determined to be electrical.. the TPS was WAY below idle specs... so I wired in a potentiometer... cleaned the guts of the tps (drilled a hole in it and sprayed in contact cleaner then resealed it with silicon)... wired in a 440uf cap to help keep the cruise control from disengaging... and then added a lock-up diengage switch so when I'm cruising through town at 45 mph I won't get any shudder... It's just a off/on toggle switch wired into the tranny harness... Make sure you get good schematics before you do that, and make sure you seal it up good... no electrical tape or wire nuts... SOLDER and SEAL(!!!)... can't stress that enough. I found most of the problems with my truck have been electrical and it's all been from crappy workmanship that the previous owner had done himself... lots of wire nuts and wiring rubbed through because it was routed poorly or just the wrong kind of wire (he used romex for the trailer brake controler and didn't use any slpit loom... so it chaffed in half where it was rubbing against an edge of sheet metal between the cab and the bed... I have been pulling a lot of wire this week and it's agrivating...
ANYWAY... this is about your truck (sorry, I tend to rant)... do a search for tps and potentiometer and that'll give you a good drawing to use... and then the cap has to be wired in the right way or it acts like an "open" in the circuit... because caps FILTER AC and BLOCK DC in series, but FILTER DC SPIKES IN PARRALLEL (like if you're into car stereos... you wire the the big power cap in parralell with your amp to act as a "stiffener"... it prevents spikes and surges in the power supply... well in this case it's much smaller because its 5v at less than 1amp).
If your problem is not electrical... then you just need to do a fluid change... go with the FACTORY reccomended ATF (i use the regular old ATF in my 47rh) and add a bottle of lucas tranny treatment (remember it's a quart of fluid, so deduct fluid as required from the ATF amount or you'll overfill and that's just as bad as underfilled)... I did that and the shudder went to almost nothing in my truck (lucas products make slick 50 look like garbage - and at half the price)... but it has 250k miles on the factory tranny so I wired in the TC lock-up switch to disengage it when I'm putting through town. It only drops the RPMs about 10% anyway at those speeds - so it's not really saving me any fuel.
Bro, I hope I was helpful... I've been going through hell with my tranny the last month and this website was a godsend... SAVED ME $3000 for a new tranny (THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THAT!!!)... all I needed was to adjust the kickdown bands, fix some wiring and add some wiring and a switch... did a fluid & filter change while I was at it... and my truck is good as new. Now I can take my money I saved and go finish my engineering degree this fall. WEEEEE!!!!!
Johnny
ANYWAY... this is about your truck (sorry, I tend to rant)... do a search for tps and potentiometer and that'll give you a good drawing to use... and then the cap has to be wired in the right way or it acts like an "open" in the circuit... because caps FILTER AC and BLOCK DC in series, but FILTER DC SPIKES IN PARRALLEL (like if you're into car stereos... you wire the the big power cap in parralell with your amp to act as a "stiffener"... it prevents spikes and surges in the power supply... well in this case it's much smaller because its 5v at less than 1amp).
If your problem is not electrical... then you just need to do a fluid change... go with the FACTORY reccomended ATF (i use the regular old ATF in my 47rh) and add a bottle of lucas tranny treatment (remember it's a quart of fluid, so deduct fluid as required from the ATF amount or you'll overfill and that's just as bad as underfilled)... I did that and the shudder went to almost nothing in my truck (lucas products make slick 50 look like garbage - and at half the price)... but it has 250k miles on the factory tranny so I wired in the TC lock-up switch to disengage it when I'm putting through town. It only drops the RPMs about 10% anyway at those speeds - so it's not really saving me any fuel.
Bro, I hope I was helpful... I've been going through hell with my tranny the last month and this website was a godsend... SAVED ME $3000 for a new tranny (THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THAT!!!)... all I needed was to adjust the kickdown bands, fix some wiring and add some wiring and a switch... did a fluid & filter change while I was at it... and my truck is good as new. Now I can take my money I saved and go finish my engineering degree this fall. WEEEEE!!!!!
Johnny
05-13-2008, 06:46 PM
#27
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Maybe this will help.
fallow this link:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=172526
Then click on the link in my post. Tuckerdee wrote a good write up on installing a pot.
fallow this link:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=172526
Then click on the link in my post. Tuckerdee wrote a good write up on installing a pot.
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